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Dynamic slings - Who's using them?

Original Post
Dave the Climber · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Aug 2023 · Points: 0

Is anyone using dynamic slings for trad climbing? 

If so what lengths are most useful, and for what tasks do you use them for?

Which ones do you like the best?

that guy named seb · · Britland · Joined Oct 2015 · Points: 236
Dave the Climber · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Aug 2023 · Points: 0
Jake woo · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jan 2019 · Points: 2

https://www.mytendon.com/en/mastercord-7-8-green-yellow/p-494/

I've been using Tendons version. 7.8 is less bulky than the Beal 8.1 (which I also have but don't use). I have the 120 for overlapping use for dynamic rap extension and anything else you want a 120 sling for (gear extension, anchors, foot loops, etc). It works great, but the reality is that it's much bulkier than any conventional nylon or dyneema sling. I keep using mine mostly because I like the circus colors. I never take it when weight matters. I've found the minimal amount of stretch offered doesn't equate to any discernible advantage considering the cons of it's bulk.

rocknice2 · · Montreal, QC · Joined Nov 2006 · Points: 3,847

The rope is already dynamic so these are not going to add any significant value to that system. 

I guess as a PAS they are useful.

rocknice2 · · Montreal, QC · Joined Nov 2006 · Points: 3,847
Devin Hanes wrote:

I think they work for doubled up gear, to equalize better.

Equalize better than what, a regular sling?

The point is the DYNAMIC part is not needed in a roped climb.

Fan Y · · Bishop/Las Vegas · Joined Jun 2011 · Points: 964

What kind of force are you expecting on your system?? Can you give a scenario where such a short section of dynamic cord is going to make any difference? I'm honestly baffled. The energy absorptive property of a dynamic rope is not just that it's stretchy, but that it distributes energy along many meters of the rope. 

Newt Riverman · · Denver, CO · Joined Jul 2019 · Points: 0
Devin Hanes wrote:

Yep, being that it's dynamic I think it will equalize better under load.

This had been discussed at nauseum before,  you're better off clipping the pieces individually.  Equalization is a myth in most cases, nesting gear is a good example of that. 

Cherokee Nunes · · Unknown Hometown · Joined May 2015 · Points: 0

Useful as a tether. And perhaps for that first piece off the belay, when you barely have any rope out but must climb 2x over that first piece? Just some thoughts...

I was of the understanding that the dynamic properties of the slings are not intended to save your innards from peak jolts, it's to keep the sling from breaking (like a dynema could) in a short jolting fall? Maybe I misconstrued?

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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