Colorado Ice Conditions 2023-2024

This thread is long overdue given the beta that's been flying around fb and other places. rmnp timed entry finally ending after this Sunday. Go! 

some useful links

• longs peak webcam
• glacier gorge webcam
• hiker photos chasm lake
• Satellite imagery updated every few days

Thanks and a bump! Looking forward to seeing folks around 

Was about to say, think it's about time we get this up and running!

Alexander's chimney yesterday

Yoooo thanks for sharing pics! Looks like there’s no pro in those pics did it take stubbies yet or super thin run out?

Dennis Shaverwrote:

Alexander's chimney yesterday

For the first pitch we climbed rock around that really thin ice as didn't look like it would protect well but i could imagine someone better climbing it. 

Attached another pic of the 2nd pitch with the pro I placed. I pretty much was able to place screws whenever I wanted. My calves were burning so I sewed it up in my eyes. I mainly had short screws but did place a longer one and would have taken a few for sure. In all I placed 7 screws and had one that I wish I could have placed to get through that final rock band but it was too dull to get in and so did run it out a tad bit. 

For the crux pitch it would have taken some stubbies but I clipped the fixed anchor that is at the start of entrance under the chockstone which protected most the ice and then just placed rock gear which I was able to find plenty of. I don't think there were any risky or unavoidable runouts. I had 7 good screws (1 dull one), singles in .3 - 4 cams, and then 3 of the larger bd offset cams. felt like plenty, had nuts and ballnuts as well but didn't place any of either. 

From my perspective the route is in great shape especially since it had all the gear I needed to climb it safely but of course ymmv. 

Super impressive that Alex's got climbed on Sat. I was looking at it and thought it was unclimbably thin.

notch couloir is in great fall condition. Didn't get any photos, check my ticks for deets.

I did get photos of cables on descent. Didn't look super inspiring but it's certainly not a rock scramble now, sections of thin ice, snowy rock, snowbanks, and some dry rock.

Thanks for getting this thread started! Anyone have pics of Zumies Chimney/Dovetail Right?

Maxwell Hodgeswrote:

Thanks for getting this thread started! Anyone have pics of Zumies Chimney/Dovetail Right?

Unfortunately was dark by the time i had a view of them after rapping cables, but I wouldn't be optimistic based on the thin state of cables. There is a photo from Oct 9 on alltrails. Would love to hear if anyone sees zumies is in, it looks super cool 

Anything in on Thatchtop yet?

How’s Lincoln lookin? 

Thatchtop and Lincoln are both in. 

Photos?

Lincoln

Thatchtop. 

Le Fang 11/1.

Glad to find this thread. Hope it thrives this season. Hit me up if you're up for some weekday softer routes. I'll sharpen my points.

Rob Cotterwrote:

Le Fang 11/1.

Drove out past it on Friday and it was still up, drove back by today and it was gone, not surprising given the temps.

75 degrees in montrose. Record highs.

Anyone have eyes on silverton/eureka ice? 

Brandon Arrawrote:

Anyone have eyes on silverton/eureka ice? 

+1 for this question. Stairway to heaven in?