Anyone have a soft shell they like ice climbing in?
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I’m thinking about picking up an older bd dawn patrol jacket on sale. I’m wondering if anyone likes using it for ice climbing, or if there’s another one out there that you like when you don’t want to wear a hard shell. I’m mainly curious about how well it blocks the wind and it’s water resistance. |
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I have an old gen Rab Torque jacket I love doing pretty much any form of climbing in. Pockets are big enough for gloves, blocks wind decently enough, hood is big enough and moves well. Reinforcements are also well placed. Not a big fan of the new version but any similar jacket would perform well. Thin material though but combined with an R1 Air or similar and it's awesome. |
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I have the BD dawn patrol from a few years ago and it's awesome! It's my go to for ice/alpine, ski touring, cold rock climbing etc. It has internal drop pockets which is really nice and most other softshells I've tried don't have them. It's a softshell, so definitely not waterproof but great for wind resistance. Been in heavy wind in the tetons with it and it blocks the wind great. And dries out quickly when it does get soaked. |
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Any model with an athletic fit that is stretch and light. |
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1. Arc'teryx Gamma LT Hoody 2. Arc'teryx Alpha Comp Hoody (Discontinued) |
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I'll second Alex's recommendation for the Dawn Patrol. Very versatile, nice trim fit. |
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OR ferrosi. Not the lightest but very durable and a little bit weather proof. Base layer and a vest under it is comfy for me climbing (but not at belays) above ~20F |
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AlpineIce wrote: How do they compare functionally (e.g., wind resistance, breathability, water protection, stretch, etc.)? |
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Pradagonia Northwall is the one thing to rule them all. |
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Blue wrote: The Gamma LT Hoody stretches a bit more / better mainly because of the lack of Gore-Tex panels. The Alpha Comp breathes a bit better, IMO, due to the thinner, Fortius 1, softshell material. Not sure I've noticed a drastic difference in wind resistance between the two. The Alpha Comp weighs less and is easier to pack away; the Gamma has a longer front hem, so it fits me (medium) a bit better. I wish Arc would develop a Gamma "Alpine" based on an LT / Comp mix. Axe the hand pockets for two Napoleon chest pockets, same trim as the previous gen Gamma LT with some Gore panels on the shoulders and hood, which will shed some weight, with bright color options and a longer front / rear hem. Maybe they could add 60-80 grams of CoreLoft Compact for a warmer option for waterfall ice. |