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dogbone/quickdraw frustration

Original Post
Bruno Schull · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Dec 2009 · Points: 0

I've got a question about dogbones or quickdraws. 

The QDs I use for alpine climbing and ice climbing have DMM Alpha Trad carabiners.  Not the lightest, but great large mouth carabiners for my bear paws. The dogbone is the Petzl Fineese with the Petzl rubber keeper.

The frustrating thing is that the top carabiner, the one without the keeper, constantly moves around, making racking and clipping a bit more time consuming than I would like. 

It's minor, but annoying.  

Does anybody know of any light dogbones that have a relatively tight fit with carabiners?  Or does anybody use the rubber on both carabiners?  Other ideas?

I understand there is meant to be an advantage by having the upper carabiner move freely, but before the ice forms and we start swinging tools, I thought I'd ask.

that guy named seb · · Britland · Joined Oct 2015 · Points: 236

The upper carabiner has to move freely as a matter of safety, if it was tight fitting you significantly increase the risk of the carabiner unclipping its self, this is less of a risk for nuts and cams but it's a major potential issue for hangers like bolts, pitons and ice screws. 

It's not just an advantage its critical. 

If you want a solution for ice, try these

https://grivel.com/collections/ice-protection/products/720-speedy

For everything else your only option would be to get the plume captive snap gates from grivel or the quick draw, but this would be quite the downgrade being, much smaller and having a regular nose. 

https://grivel.com/collections/carabiners/products/plume-captive-k3wc

https://grivel.com/products/alpine-plume-captive?_pos=3&_sid=0529e270c&_ss=r

These are the only options on the market without lugging around steel biners. 

Zachary Winters · · Winthrop, WA · Joined Aug 2014 · Points: 430

That biner is not intended to pair with a fat dogbone. Replace Finesse with these and they'll behave like the alpha trad draw which don't seem to have any issues.

https://dmmwales.com/collections/slings-lanyards/products/dynatec-qd-11mm

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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