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How to make a tree anchor with an open "bunny ears" cordelette?

Original Post
James Maloy · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2022 · Points: 0

Hi all, 

I recently started racking my cordelette in an open "bunny ears" configuration ( alpinesavvy.com/blog/the-bu…) mainly for the versatility (being able to reach farther pieces of gear, etc) 

However, it's not clear to me how best to make a monolithic tree anchor with the cord in this configuration. I recently made it work by essentially tying a BHK as the power point knot (which put the ends of the cord as part of the tail of the BHK, so it worked) but just barely had enough cord to do it and it didn't seem optimal. 

I suppose another option would be to just clip both loops with a locker and then girth hitch around the tree such that the biner ends up as the master point. But that's not really redundant. 

Is there some other solution I'm missing? 

Wictor Dahlström · · Stockholm · Joined Oct 2021 · Points: 0

If you want two redundant strands around the tree and the cord is long enough, you double it with the bunny ears two one side. Put the middle of the doubled cord to the back of the tree and put on overhand in the direct of pull. The master point is now the two bunny ears and the loop. 

that guy named seb · · Britland · Joined Oct 2015 · Points: 236

You don't need redundancy in the strands around the tree, a simple basket hitch works fine with back to back biners or a locker, if the tree is too big you can simply tie the open ends together with a bunny ears. 

Edge loading a carabiner would be pretty difficult to do with a tree large enough that you would use an an anchor. 

James Maloy · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2022 · Points: 0
Wictor Dahlström wrote:

If you want two redundant strands around the tree and the cord is long enough, you double it with the bunny ears two one side. Put the middle of the doubled cord to the back of the tree and put on overhand in the direct of pull. The master point is now the two bunny ears and the loop. 

Makes sense! I think something like this crossed my mind at the time but I didn't want to worry anyone with my unusual looking master point, but it seems perfectly safe. Thank you. 

James Maloy · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2022 · Points: 0
that guy named seb wrote:

You don't need redundancy in the strands around the tree, a simple basket hitch works fine with back to back biners or a locker, if the tree is too big you can simply tie the open ends together with a bunny ears. 

Edge loading a carabiner would be pretty difficult to do with a tree large enough that you would use an an anchor. 

Thanks! You mean just put the middle of the open cord behind the tree, and then clip the two ears together and that's the master point? Seems reasonable enough. 

To your point about single-stranding a tree, I'm wondering how common it is for people to simply girth or basket hitch a sling around a tree and use it as a trad anchor. Also seems to be "good enough" but curious what people think. 

Alex Fletcher · · Las Vegas · Joined May 2016 · Points: 252

When I used a bunny ears style cordelette for trad anchors, I discovered I was getting core shots on the knots at each end within a very short amount of time. It occurred often enough within a week or two of regular multipitch climbing on multiple occasions that I reverted to a regular tied loop cordelette. 

Gunkiemike · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2009 · Points: 3,702
James Maloy wrote:

Thanks! You mean just put the middle of the open cord behind the tree, and then clip the two ears together and that's the master point? Seems reasonable enough. 

To your point about single-stranding a tree, I'm wondering how common it is for people to simply girth or basket hitch a sling around a tree and use it as a trad anchor. Also seems to be "good enough" but curious what people think. 

I think we all realize that a professional setting e.g. guided climbing, has stricter standards than many recreational climbers observe. And of course within the rec setting, different folks have different feelings about what is "good enough" in their anchors.  Having said that, there is NFW I would consider a single strand of a sling or accessory cord around the trunk to be sufficient as an anchor in either my guiding or personal climbing. As one component of an anchor (maybe there are two trees equipped like this), then sure. It's the redundancy thing.

rgold · · Poughkeepsie, NY · Joined Feb 2008 · Points: 526

For multipitch climbing, there are two situations when I'll put a sling around a tree. (1) There's lots of sap and I don't want to get it on my rope. (2) The tree is far from where I want to belay.  If it is neither of those, then I'll either walk around the tree and clove-hitch the rope back to my tie-in loop or just anchor at the tree with a buntline hitch.

Wictor Dahlström · · Stockholm · Joined Oct 2021 · Points: 0
James Maloy wrote:

Thanks! You mean just put the middle of the open cord behind the tree, and then clip the two ears together and that's the master point? Seems reasonable enough. 

To your point about single-stranding a tree, I'm wondering how common it is for people to simply girth or basket hitch a sling around a tree and use it as a trad anchor. Also seems to be "good enough" but curious what people think. 

I would not worry about it and have done it. I however think it is a little nice to have it doubled with a knot. That a sling or something good in a single strand would cut around a tree when not over some kind of sharp edge is not a concern.

saign charlestein · · Tacoma WA · Joined Apr 2017 · Points: 2,077

Ditch the cordelette and use the rope

Gunkiemike · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2009 · Points: 3,702
saign charlestein wrote:

Ditch the cordelette and use the rope

What if it's an anchor for top roping? 

Ryan K · · Lander, WY · Joined Feb 2015 · Points: 0
saign charlestein wrote:

Ditch the cordelette and use the rope

So many reasons why this isn’t the only answer.  5m of power cord weighs<150g… That’s one or two of your hexes..

I have never understood the militant anti-cord people. Should you be able to use the rope to make an anchor? Absolutely. Should that be your only option, definitely no.

hillbilly hijinks · · Conquistador of the Useless · Joined Mar 2020 · Points: 194
Ryan K wrote:

So many reasons why this isn’t the only answer.  5m of power cord weighs<150g… That’s one or two of your hexes..

I have never understood the militant anti-cord people. Should you be able to use the rope to make an anchor? Absolutely. Should that be your only option, definitely no.

Weird how people can often never understand the voice of experience until they have experience too.

And don't forget to tell your parents "thank you" harumpf!

Wictor Dahlström · · Stockholm · Joined Oct 2021 · Points: 0
Ryan K wrote:

So many reasons why this isn’t the only answer.  5m of power cord weighs<150g… That’s one or two of your hexes..

I have never understood the militant anti-cord people. Should you be able to use the rope to make an anchor? Absolutely. Should that be your only option, definitely no.

Hehe, do people actually carry hexes?

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Trad Climbing
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