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Moderate alpine ice routes
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I’m looking for a climb in the AI2-3 range, any length approach, and with as little possible glacier travel. I was thinking about frostbite ridge on Glacier Peak for an idea |
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Observation rock north side of rainier (be wary of rockfall in not great conditions), and Baker Lower Coleman glacier serac cragging are two options accessible in summer/fall. Search around this forum or cascade climbers, people have compiled lists and info about winter climbs in the cascades if that’s what you’re looking for. |
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There are a plethora of AI2-3 routes in Mt Hood with very very moderate glacier travel. Most become prime over winter and spring. |
Parker Johnsonwrote: FWIW, Frostbite has one pitch of barely AI2 and roughly 40 miles to get in/out. It’s a really cool adventure and definitely worth doing but it might not really be the best bang for your buck ice climbing. It’s unclear if you’re looking for routes now or just in general, but the season for that type of thing is essentially over. Any ice left is going to be up pretty high and most glaciers are pretty broken up at this time of year. May-July is probably a more typical season for routes of this type (Kautz, Adams, N. Ridge Baker, DKH, Chair, etc.) |
Kyle Tarrywrote: Fair enough haha I just did the disappointment route up it and someone with tools came from the other side of the summit talking about frostbite ridge. Definitely routes right now but winter would be fine as well. I was told on cascade climbers to check out the North Face of Mt Maude. But still, I think I’m too late and will have to wait for winter |
  Just did frostbite two weekends ago. Sadly less ice than expected, 1 pitch of ai2/3 on the Kennedy glacier, 1 pitch ai1 right before the summit. I felt really smart carrying full blown tools and ice crampons for 45mi. Lower Coleman for the best ice cragging this time of year imo. |
Adam Zukowskiwrote:Just did frostbite two weekends ago. Sadly less ice than expected, 1 pitch of ai2/3 on the Kennedy glacier, 1 pitch ai1 right before the summit. I felt really smart carrying full blown tools and ice crampons for 45mi. Lower Coleman for the best ice cragging this time of year imo. At least you got a couple cool pics and a workout! |
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I’ve been wanting to check out observation rock. Supposedly September is when it starts to come in. If anyone’s been up there let us know. |
Kevin Diederichwrote: I can’t answer directly as I haven’t been this year, but for some data (and to add detail to my vague warning on post 2 above), I climbed it august 2021 and it had nice condition alpine ice, then returned a month later with another partner on September 2021 and bailed after arriving at the base of the route as there were softball size death rocks flying down the route every few minutes (it was also in a fog and you couldn’t see where they were coming from, but presumably they were coming from the top of the route that was too melted out). For up to date conditions best bet is checking mp ticks or asking around fb groups like Pacific Northwest mountaineers. To the thread topic, another ice cragging opportunity is the Lower Curtis glacier which is scenic, has straightforward access, has camping at the at the area before fisher chimneys , and has a variety of terrain ( similar to lower Coleman seracs). i went this weekend and it was great , at least before we got rained out |
