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How the sewn loop should be connected to the ATC device during the rappelling

Original Post
Karol Doman · · Warsaw, PL · Joined Aug 2023 · Points: 0

Hey, I'm fresh out of a rock climbing course and I'm trying to complete my equipment for my next trip. I am looking around for a sewn loop, which I will use mainly as a lunge during rappelling. I came across such a loop and am wondering if it will be suitable: petzl.com/INT/en/Profession… And my other doubt is how to connect the loop to the ATC. On the course we connected it this way:

And on the Internet you can also come across such a method:

 How this linking should look like and, therefore, which loop will be the most suitable? :)
Wictor Dahlström · · Stockholm · Joined Oct 2021 · Points: 0

Congratulations, you are now a candidate to take a course!

FrankPS · · Atascadero, CA · Joined Nov 2009 · Points: 276

What is a "lunge"?

Who gave the class you took?

Will you respond to this?

What are your thoughts on bots? (that rhymes)

Ryan K · · Lander, WY · Joined Feb 2015 · Points: 0

Either of those will work. A simple double length nylon sling with over hand knots to adjust the distance of your rappel device/anchor point is the most basic. Girth hitching through your tie in points, or using your belay loop are both ok for rappelling

Petzl makes a nice device that is prebuilt for you with an adjustable tether and dedicated rappel leg. Might be worth it for you:

https://m.petzl.com/US/en/Sport/Lanyards/DUAL-CONNECT-ADJUST

Karol Doman · · Warsaw, PL · Joined Aug 2023 · Points: 0
Wictor Dahlström wrote:

Congratulations, you are now a candidate to take a course!

Since it's been a few weeks since the course, this first time is probably worth going at least with someone more experienced. :)

Karol Doman · · Warsaw, PL · Joined Aug 2023 · Points: 0
FrankPS wrote:

What is a "lunge"?

Who gave the class you took?

Will you respond to this?

What are your thoughts on bots? (that rhymes)

By lunge I meant sewn sling for rappel.

Instructor of the Polish Mountaineering Association, I just wanted to hear the opinion of others, so as not to rely only on the experience of one person.

The second option seems more durable to me. I have not seen tests like with the strength of this single loop, when there is a overhand knot on the sling (first picture).

Ryan K wrote:
Either of those will work. A simple double length nylon sling with over hand knots to adjust the distance of your rappel device/anchor point is the most basic. Girth hitching through your tie in points, or using your belay loop are both ok for rappelling

Petzl makes a nice device that is prebuilt for you with an adjustable tether and dedicated rappel leg. Might be worth it for you:

https://m.petzl.com/US/en/Sport/Lanyards/DUAL-CONNECT-ADJUST 

Thanks for the answer. Should I somehow focus more on the width or material of this sling in this case?

Sam Schwinghammer · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Oct 2021 · Points: 0

There's probably resources out there provided by the Polish Mountaineering Association which should be trustworthy.  AMGA(American Mountain Guide Association) and BMC(British Mountaineering Council) sources are trustworthy as well.  Just be mindful that different areas have different ethics around things like fixed gear and trees, so refer to local resources for the areas you plan to climb.

There's a thousand solutions for things like extended rappels.  Find a couple that suite your needs and practise them.

As for the material question, nylon slips a little less than dyneema when it comes to knots.  Either should work, or you could use a cord sling if you want to be extra cautious.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Beginning Climbers
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