Help me compile the perfect "in a month" list for yosemite

Going yosemite for a month, help me compile the ultimate list.

Grades gd up to around 11d for onsight, and a bit higher if steep, happy to French free for the sake of speed though. I am of course also happy to climb anything easy as well if its fun, looking to get a day on squeeze if possible they just don't exist in the uk, but I'm fairly confident on offwidths in general as well as long days covering 500m+ of sustained technical climbing.

Currently I have:

Snake dike 

Astroman

Serenity crack 

sentinel-Steck salathe

Seperate reality

NW face of half dome

Rgular route-Cathedral spire

South face-mount watkins

The Cracker, Right 

Kauk-kulator (bird restrictions?) 

Central Pillar of Frenzy 

Kor-Beck 

East Buttress 

The Sequel 

Braille Brooke 

Book of Job

Any other recommendations or any not really worth doing? 

My girlfriend is with me for the first 8 days and can free clean up to 5.8 she's happy to jumar for a pitch or two. 

Nutcracker ,Crest Jewel , Lost Arrow ,Steck-Salathe ,Mr. Natural

stoners highway

east buttress of middle cathedral

northeast buttress if higher cathedral

chouinard herbert on sentinel

the cookie if it isn't too hot

a day at pat and jack is a good cragging day

a day at reeds pinnacle center route, stone groove, lunatic fringe

What month are you going? 

This is relevant with regard to shady vs sunny routes. And also this year with the big snowpack and wet rock.

Some climbs I like and worth doing that are off the beaten path.

Right Side Split Pinnacle 5.8

Higher Cathedral Spire… original route great setting. 5.9?

Braille Book 5.9?

Have fun! 

JCM wrote:

What month are you going? 

I'm flying out may 24th, I'm aware some routes will be wet at the start of the season but I'm hoping things dry out as the trip progresses. 

that guy named seb wrote:

I'm flying out may 24th, I'm aware some routes will be wet at the start of the season but I'm hoping things dry out as the trip progresses. 

That's also getting to the part of the season where climbing in the shade becomes rather desirable. Plan objectives accordingly.  Climbing in full sun in June can be rough. It would be a good idea for those making route  suggestions to note the sun/shade situation for each route.

Snake Dike isn't that good. Do it if you want to climb half dome, don't do it if you want good climbing. Based on the other routes you have listed and your ability level, I'm not sure how much you would like it. 

Now, to be sure, there are climbers of all ability levels who love Snake Dike, but I've noticed a clear trend that it's mostly punters like me who love the route, or people who just are in love with the idea of sending half dome. 

Maybe you would love the route, but I just wanted to give you a heads up that all my actually good climber friends refused to do the route with me saying it was too long of an approach for garbage climbing, which I found an extremely strange thing. Then I did it and understood their perspective. If you're very keen on an easy way up half dome then definitely do it. If you want a day of good climbing pick something else; you might find it to be one of the least fun days in your month out here. It's a great adventure and a pretty shitty climb. 

Maybe a good one with the girlfriend? 

Edit to add: some easier classics that you might enjoy with the girlfriend that haven't been mentioned are Munginella to Selaginella and Super Slide. The latter is 5.9 but it only has like maybe three meters of 5.9 on it and even I followed it clean and I'm not a 5.8 Yosemite leader, so your GF would do fine I reckon. I hear similar things about Commitment but I haven't done it myself. After Six and Nutcracker would be good ones with her also, but that Nutcracker crux is pretty damn physical and I found it much harder than several 5.9 cruxes in the valley. Then again I'm fat and weak. I managed to power scream through it though, your GF would probably find it at least a bit easier than I did. 

Excited that you're gonna spend a month in valley! Whatever you choose you'll have a blast for sure

Cheers

Wayward son is still one of the highest quality most enjoyable days I have ever had climbing anywhere, not just in the valley 

I second Nutcracker (super popular, but absolutely classic), Northeast Buttress of Higher Cathedral (sun until noon), Regular Route Higher Spire, Stoners Highway, Beggars Buttress, Book of Job, Braile Book, Kaukulator

Moby Dick Center, Gripper, Direct Route Reeds, Lunatic Fringe, New Dimensions, Outer Limits, Anticipation, Little Wing, Crack a Go Go, Nabisco Wall, After Six

For some off the beaten path or semi unpopular action - English breakfast Crack, Fingerlickin, The Vendetta, Hotline, Center Route of Independence Pinnacle, The Good Book, The Thief, Mañana, Vanishing Point, Left Side of Slab Happy Pinnacle, Arrowhead Arete, Windfall, Windjammer, Crest Jewel, Freewheelin, The Commitment, Five and Dime, Peter Pan, Sacherer Cracker to Mark of Art, Catchy to Catchy Corner, The Moratorium, Tightrope, Quicksilver, Left side of Reeds Pinnacle, Jojo, Pinky Paralysis, Steck Salathe, Freestone, Cramming, Enema Crack, Cookie Monster

That ought to keep you busy and grinning

Depending on how the snowmelt goes, it could be a weird time in the valley.  A lot of routes on the north side could be too hot. If the record snowpack stays around, a lot of the south side shady routes could still be wet into June.  Hopefully not.  On the north side you can chase shade a bit but it's an inefficient use of time and may preclude doing some long routes.

That said, the Rostrum.  (closed till July.  Was thinking it opened in June)

JaredG wrote:

Depending on how the snowmelt goes, it could be a weird time in the valley.  A lot of routes on the north side could be too hot. If the record snowpack stays around, a lot of the south side shady routes could still be wet into June.  Hopefully not.  On the north side you can chase shade a bit but it's an inefficient use of time and may preclude doing some long routes.

That said, the Rostrum.

Rostrum is closed till July 15th. Most south side routes are completely dry already fortunately but el cap and royal arches are completely soaked waterfalls

JaredG wrote:

That said, the Rostrum.

Isn't the rostrum closed for the raptors in spring? If it's not I'd love to free the regular route and it's definitely on the list. 

Edit: thank you for the condition report and confirming James. 

I assume when people say rostrum is closed that is the entire rostrum and I'm not getting on the Kauk-kulator, am I correct with this assumption? 

Also I appreciate all the recommendations but please try and just recommend a few really standout routes that either no one has mentioned or is particularly special, the information paralysis is real. 

that guy named seb wrote:

I assume when people say rostrum is closed that is the entire rostrum and I'm not getting on the Kauk-kulator, am I correct with this assumption? 

Yes

https://www.nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/climbingclosures.htm

The Rostrum – Lower Merced Canyon. Closure includes climbing routes on all sides of the Rostrum formation.

The great escape is a fun afternoon/morning outing clipping bolts.  

Also I appreciate all the recommendations but please try and just recommend a few really standout routes that either no one has mentioned or is particularly special, the information paralysis is real.

Of 3000 routes in what is arguably the greatest rock climbing area in the world, there are a lot of “particularly special” climbs.

If I were you, I’d like to consider a variety to research and choose from, rather than having only enough options for a month of climbing days. I lived and climbed there for six years…

Your haste reminds me of a John Muir quote. When asked what he would recommend to do for a visitor who only had one day in Yosemite:

 “I’d go sit by the Merced River and cry!”

What Kevin said ,  be open to inspiration in the moment. One time I found an old Greek man living in the boulders behind Camp4. He said his dream was to climb Serenity Crack. So we walked over to it. I said, sorry my man, the 1st pitch is too scary, let's do Super Slide instead. We peeked around the corner and there were approximately 9 parties on Super Slide. So we went back to Serenity and he showed me how to do the opening moves. Long story short that was the day me and Ruben the Greek team on sighted Serenity / Sons in blistering heat. No one on the route and my best bud was waiting at the base with some cool drinks when we got down. That was one of the best days ever!

...

Personally I'd put NE Buttress of Higher Cathedral Rock and the Steck Salathe way high on the list as well. Shady aspects and good for your timetable, Seb .

Does anyone have eyes on the walk offs for Sentinel, Higher Cathedral Rock, and Watkins ? I'm curious how long the gullies will hold snow this year . My guidebook says the Watkins cracks seep a lot too .

that guy named seb wrote:

I'm flying out may 24th, I'm aware some routes will be wet at the start of the season but I'm hoping things dry out as the trip progresses. 

People may not unanimously agree with me but I don't think of May 24th as the start of the season in the Valley.  In a normal year June would be pretty hot and you'd be chasing shade.  The south facing stuff in the lower Merced Canyon would not be optimal then.

This year your timing is going to be compounded by the meltoff from higher elevations, which has barely started yet.  I just read a statistic that the last week of heat has only melted around 12 inches of snow from the high Sierra (out of hundreds).  And that flooding has closed various roads etc.

Most of the suggestions given here are great, really all you have to do to compile your list is screen for 3-4 star routes using the database tool and the same lists that people have given you here, will come up.  They really are that good.  You won't have analysis paralysis because you are going to have to pick and choose based on what's dry and what is not too hot, at the same time. For example there are a dozen really fabulous routes at the Cookie, but in June, I doubt you'd be able to climb there in the sun all day. Same with Reed's Pinnacle area.

Sun is definitely a factor by the end of May. Temps vary day to day a little that time of year, and there might still be some storm clouds. Google Earth Pro has a sun/shade feature that allows you to see what’s in the shade, and when it goes into shade at any day and time of day for the entire year, on a PC. Both The Cookie and Arch Rock get shade in the afternoon, some facets earlier. At least the days are long that time of year.

The Northeast Buttress of Higher Cathedral Rock cooks in the morning, but gets shade in the afternoon that time of year. The Steck Salathe is definitely shadier, but IMO a bit of a lesser quality route. The North Buttress of Middle Cathedral Rock, and The Flakes are worth mentioning, and partially shaded.

A good easy access yet obscure route that’s shaded is Overdrive, below the Inspiration Point end of the Wawona Tunnel. It has a 6 ft horizontal roof on the second pitch, 5.11, rarely done.

Everything on Fifi

+1 for Stoners. People mention standout difficult pitches. I thought every pitch had a sleeper crux on it and I’m an ok face climber. One of my most memorable routes in the Valley ever. I lead p1 and if I were to do it again, I’d just climb up the pillar to the right.

East butt el cap is awesome, west face El Cap. Free climb to Dolt on the Nose if there’s no one on it.

As to the start of Stoners - I always thought there could be a straight up variation before the first pitch traverse, linking to the end of the second pitch traverse off the belay, FWIW. It would probably be 5.11 and about 50 ft of new climbing. The last bolt on that first pitch was the first bolt I ever placed, I was 18, and I had run it from the bolt before the traverse. I was about 40 to 50 feet out, in ground fall territory, Largo barking instructions from the turf. We added the bolt after the crux moves on a later effort.