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School me on torque wrenches
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Hi folks. I'll be putting in some bolts and an anchor soon, and I want to get the torque right. I've been using tools my whole life, but I don't know much about torque wrenches. What's the best kind, mechanical or electronic? Anything to look out for? What about the adjustment system, should I look for one with a dial or??? And what size/style is best for some basic route development/maintenance? I live in Europe so what's available for you might not be the same for me, but I do have a US post box if need be. Thanks, Bruno |
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I look for a torque wrench that covers the torque range of the bolts I am using but not too much beyond that. I want the smallest lightest one that will get the job done. After that I look for a way to attach a strap and carabiner to it so that I don't drop it. Usually I can swage a cable or clove an alpine draw around the head of the torque wrench. Electronic are more fun but mechanical don't need batteries and are generally cheaper. I use a click mechanical torque wrench that is about 12-18 inches long for on route bolting. Most torque wrench sold in the US and made China (via amazon) have both imperial and metric torque settings. Although I imagine the sockets sold in Europe have metric drive holes rather than the 1/4, 3/8, 1/2 which are common in the US. My route torque wrench is the 3/8 inch drive hole. Since you live in Europe I would buy what is available there, it will be easier to acquire and to get sockets for it. |
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Euro socket drive is the same as US. You want a 3/8" drive one. Cheap Chinese torque wrenches are horrible, bending bar ones fairly impractical. Something like a Tepco would be fine at around €40. Depending on what tools you already have and what you do otherwise you can get a digital adaptor for a standard ratchet or a torque-control adaptor which is completely fool-proof as they come pre-set from the factory. I have a 24Nm one from KS Tools but as I only install wedge bolts I've never bothered with a torque wrench anyway. |
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Thats great info--thanks. I live in Switzerland, and I did notice that the sizes are the same as the US (1/4...3/8 and so on). I looked through some options from KS tools (DE) and Toolster (CH) and there are some small, simple wrenches limited to a single fixed torque. Those seem pretty cool, no? Then again, might be nice to have some adjustment. |
Bruno Schullwrote: Do you have a link to a non-adjustable torque wrench? I haven't heard of those and not sure why you would want one? Personally, I prefer the click-type of torque wrench. With any torque wrench, pull slowly when you approach the final torque value. It's easy to overshoot the mark if you pull hard and fast. |
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Here's one, this is preset for sparkplugs. In a busy workshop you don't mess about with an adjustable torque wrench especially if you are using power-drivers. And if you want consistant, accurate results from possibly less skilled workers. The 25Nm version is ideal for 10 and 12mm wedge bolts. |
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Hello, Digital torque adapter. Get one which shows peak forces and has an audible warning at a set torque level. Set the warning a bit below your torque target. Make sure it has the range you need for every possible bolt you might install, some don't go low enough. Use Ikea LADDA AA/AAA (most of them use AA/AAA) rechargeables, they will last you quite a while. You will be amazed at how often you were over or under torquing bolts, if that really matters. Thank you |
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Consider: amazon.com/ACDelco-ARM602-4… |
Mike Bondwrote: Bruno doesn't live in the USA. |
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Is there an easy way to get them calibrated? I heard they can go off pretty easily? |
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I'm wondering if anyone has compared how much torque different kinds of rock can handle with the same expansion bolt. Will a limestone hole limit the expansion a granite hole will? How about soft sandstone? Not ideal for expansion bolts anyway, but probably better than a wedge anchor. Any experimentation on this? |
Gaarth Dowrote: Hello, Some people calibrate mechanical torque wrenches with a digital one. You can also use a cheap luggage scale.
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Fishy Boiwrote: Just because it is digital does not mean it is correct. |
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I have this one and it's worked great so far: amazon.com/Professional-Ele…. Small form factor for a torque wrench and comes w/ a protective case. Good for bolting far from the road. As for calibration, placing bolts requires a fairly high torque value, compared to say working on a mountain bike. It will be OK if your wrench is off a little. If you're worried, add a couple ft/lbs when you place them. You won't snap a bolt being just a few pounds over spec. Using the small wrench I posted above also limits your ability to really fuck stuff up. It gets hard to crank when you're at the torque spec. |
climber patwrote: Hello, They are much less likely to lose calibration than a mechanical wrench. And I check my digital wrench with the method shown above every year. It has stayed correct enough for bolting purposes. Much more correct than doing it by feel anyways. You will be amazed at how over or under even experienced bolters are torquing bolts. If that matters that much. Thank you |
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Be aware that the pre-set torque attachments are hazardous for use on the side of a cliff. When the torque wrench is not in use and is hanging from a harness (they do not easily fit in a toolbag) all it takes is a slight tap against the rock and a half-pound lump of metal is heading downwards and towards anyone below you. Yes, the settings on the regular click-type torque wrenches do change during use and need to be checked from time to time. In the US, CDI are solid and high quality: CDI 1002MFRMH Adjustable Click Style Torque Wrench - 3/8-Inch Drive - 10 to 100 ft. lbs. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002LA19P2/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&th=1 |
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Hello, You can doubly secure any extensions with a push button ratchet backed up with some cord and reusable zip ties. I have not yet seen any extensions come off one of those button rachets on the wall the last decade or two. However I have seen quite a few dropped bolts and hangers from bolt bags people have left open while ascending or descending! Thank you |
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Very important thing has not been mentioned yet. If you get a mechanical adjustable torque wrench, and you likely will (in the usa we commonly use both 3/8" and 1/2" diameter wedge anchors - approx your M10 and M12, which are torqued to different strengths) always release the torque when storing the wrench. Always. That is, simply back it off to near zero. Less important" if it came in a case, put it back in it. Your calibration will thank you. Last big project I was a partner in, fella brought up a sweet digital torque wrench which was lighter than a mechanical, a great feature when you are jumaring up 500 feet of rope to get to your high point. Sadly, it was dropped. It's weakness was that the readout was very difficult to read because you're drilling bolts a few feet over your head, so if you find one, make sure it has an audible beep of some sort to tell you you've hit the mark. Lastly, torque wrench's are overrated, and for the most part, not necessary for wedge anchor installation. I try and use them as I feel it does improve consistency and quality of installation....but ...meh. Use the mfg recommendation for proper torque. Make sure your rock is solid, drill perpendicular, clean the hole out (I both blow and brush), with nut and hanger on hammer it in (do not have the nut flush set to the top or you can screw them up resulting in a spinner), tighten it. Done. |
