Durable Dry Coating
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This post is not a repeat of all the other posts asking "are dry ropes more durable against abrasion". I'm asking about ropes where the dry coating itself will last, i.e. the rope won't turn into a non-dry-treated rope. I got a dry-coated Beal Opera for Christmas last year. I used it for 11 days of ice, 11 days of rock, and 4 days of snow/glacier climbing. The dry coating is now mostly gone. It gets soaked through when exposed to water or warm snow. It's no longer useful for snow or ice climbing, unless I'm certain that I'm going to be in the cold and shade with no liquid water all day. I'm requesting a warranty refund but not optimistic since rope wear-and-tear is subjective. Are there any brands or types of dry treatment that are more durable, i.e the rope will remain dry-treated for many days on ice and snow? Do I need double-dry? Seems like if water got inside the sheath but not inside the core and then froze, you'd still have the issue of the rope being heavy, stiff and un-belayable. So I'd still be screwed if i had a double-dry rope where the sheath treatment had worn off but core treatment was intact. |
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Yeah rock climbing will destroy any dry treatment pretty quickly. Best bet is to have specific ropes for ice. |
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Sterling Xeros dry treatment may be more durable as it is applied to the fiber before it is even woven into yarn strands. I don't have any hands on experience with them yet though. |
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Hello, Use the rope ONLY for snow and ice. Dry treatment wears off in around 100 rock pitches. Thank you |
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Beal "dry cover" is not a real dry treatment-- only their "golden dry" treatment passes dry rope UIAA standards. |
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Desert Rock Sportswrote: It seems to be holding up better on mine - will know more once I get it back on ice this winter following a season of use in the flatirons rock. |
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I found 2 different new xeros ropes to become so saturated that I wondered if they were mislabeled. I’ve found Beal golden dry to last pretty well and typically get a season of ice and snow/glacier before turning it into a rock/general alpine rope. |




