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DabbyCrimps
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Jul 6, 2022
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Unknown Hometown
· Joined Jul 2022
· Points: 0
Since I started climbing, I've been exclusively using black diamond harnesses. First a momentum and then solution. My second solution harness is beginning to wear out now and I'm thinking of trying something new. Things I like about the solution are its pack size, comfort and elastic (non-adjustable) leg loops. My main complaint is that the gear loops are too small for long trad climbs and they dig into my hips because of the way they're sewn into the waistbelt, especially when weighed down with gear. I've looked at the new solution guide, which may be enough carry capacity with the fifth gear loop, but it doesn't solve the discomfort with the gear loop attachments. My use is 50/50 sport and trad climbing, so I'm still looking for something lightweight without a lot of extra padding (compared to the solution). I have a 27in waist and use a size small solution tightened all the way. Basically what I'm looking for: - Slim, streamlined design
- Small pack size
- Larger gear loops, ideally 5th loop in the back for gear and a tag line
- Non-adjustable leg loops
- Fits 27in waist
Any ideas?
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Nick A
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Jul 6, 2022
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Minneapolis
· Joined Jul 2016
· Points: 0
Check out the Petzl Sitta or the newly redesigned petzl Aquila
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Gregory H
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Jul 6, 2022
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So, CA
· Joined May 2018
· Points: 0
Sounds like you might be really into the Arc'teryx C-Quence
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Elijah Benson
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Jul 6, 2022
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Austin, TX
· Joined May 2021
· Points: 0
I really love my Blue Ice Cuesta. Great gear loops (only 4) and enormous comfort in a lightweight package. They size down to XS. I have a 31 waist and wear a small near it's upper limits.
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Jake woo
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Jul 6, 2022
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Unknown Hometown
· Joined Jan 2019
· Points: 2
I've been climbing in a Small Metolius Safe Tech Trad harness for a couple years now. While it has an adjustable rise, which is a big benefit for me, and is super comfy all day without being cumbersome, the gear loops are rounded and tiny. This means all of the gear collapses onto itself in the middle of each loop and the carabiners often wind up crossed. Additionally, I am always wanting the 5th loop in the back. Other folks swear by this type of design, like Misty Mountain harnesses. I've been very desirous of those shmancy Arcteryx harnesses and similar with the huge, pre-formed, flat, plastic gear loops and 5th loop. Metolius quality is outstanding; I just wish they would offer some more modern designs. Additionally, tons of folks are using the Petzl Sitta for everything. I really liked it for its weight and huge gear loops, but the rise was very short, so it doesn't fit me.
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James C
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Jul 6, 2022
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Seattle, WA
· Joined Sep 2014
· Points: 178
edelrid ace is another sitta-class harness
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Adam Fleming
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Jul 6, 2022
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SLC
· Joined Jun 2015
· Points: 522
I dig my Beal Ghost. The gear loops up front stick out to make clipping easier. Super light and thin, yet comfortable. Sometimes the belay loop gets hung up on the bartack. No 5th loop.
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Powell Nicodemus
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Jul 6, 2022
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Cheyenne
· Joined Sep 2018
· Points: 26
Misty Mountain Turbo. They do customized harnesses and one option is adding a fifth gear loop in the back. Their lead time is about 2 months right now.
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Sunny-D
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Jul 11, 2022
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SLC, Utah
· Joined Aug 2006
· Points: 700
I really like the MM Turbo for trad all day. It is really comfortable. I had them add an extra gear loop on the back so I have five. The only down side to this harness is it doesn’t pack very small.
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RandyLee
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Jul 11, 2022
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On the road
· Joined May 2016
· Points: 261
I’m after something with 5 gear loops and a haul loop. That’s remarkably hard to find, so many brands have chalk bag loops instead of haul loops, and it’s dumb. I sent several manufactures messages saying such, but no one cares what I think. Long way of saying Following.
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Sunny-D
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Jul 12, 2022
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SLC, Utah
· Joined Aug 2006
· Points: 700
With the turbo you can get up to 6 gear loops and it has a haul loop. You can also add a second belay loop if you want.
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that guy named seb
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Jul 12, 2022
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Britland
· Joined Oct 2015
· Points: 236
Thank god people have stopped recommending the MM Cadilac for trad climbing.
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