2022 NH Falcon Closures

From Chris Martin, Conservation Biologist with New Hampshire Audubon:

"...The good news is that we’ve learned enough about individual nest sites to close relatively narrow areas and allow climbing to continue outside the closed zones.  Also, we’ve gotten the list out prior to the Memorial Day weekend, which is definitely a good thing.

Temporary climbing restrictions that benefit NH state-listed threatened Peregrine Falcons are currently in effect and posted at the following eight New Hampshire cliffs in 2022:

• NEW! – Band M Ledge (near “The Steps” section) in Albany, NH
• Cathedral Ledge (north end near “Repentance” and “Remission”) in Bartlett, NH
• Eaglet Spire in Franconia, NH
• Frankenstein Cliff (front/lower cliff) in Harts Location, NH
• Holts Ledge (near cliff top overlook) in Lyme, NH
• Rumney Rocks (Main Cliff) in Rumney, NH
• Russell Crag (Main Cliff) in Woodstock, NH
• Woodchuck Ledge (right 1/3 of cliff) in Albany, NH

Peregrine Falcons are present and breeding at roughly a dozen other NH cliffs where no closures have been posted because recreational use and risk of repeated disturbance is believed to be minimal.  This includes at both Owls Head in Benton and Painted Walls in Albany, where this year the falcons are nesting well away from heavily-climbed areas.

Climbers who encounter aggressive falcons during any climb at a NH cliff are advised to immediately alter their climbing plan, and to report such incidents to NH Audubon or to NH Fish & Game. 

All posted areas will be reopened no later than August 1, and possibly sooner as conditions warrant.  Please share/distribute this list to your climbing colleagues and THANK YOU!"

At Cathedral, where are Repentance and Remission in relation to the rock routes?

Is deidre effected?

This sign on the ground is posted just to climber's left of the Deidre start. Cathedral Cave is still open. Repentance and Remission are rock routes too.

Andy Casler wrote:

The closure is essentially everything that's right of Cathedral Cave and everything that's left of the North End. 

Kind of interesting, I did get dive bombed by a peregrine when I rapped past The Bridge of Khazad-Dûm a few weeks ago. Though this is well outside of the closure, a peregrine had made a kill at the belay ledge, and I guess it didn't want me to steal its lunch. 

That's the thing about these closures, they should really be considered at best guidance when considering areas to climb outside the official closure. If you're on the periphery or even well outside the closure area there's still a chance that you'll run into an agitated bird this time of year. Years ago I was putting up routes at Staunton State Park in CO where there was a falcon closure on a formation called Lion's Head. We were probably a mile away from the formation, but unbeknownst to us a fledgling had perched atop the dome we were climbing. As we made our way up the second pitch of the route we started getting dive bombed by a pair of falcons. They finally relented, but we didn't know what was up until a park ranger told us he had observed the fledgling land on the formation and then the ensuing attack. We ended up naming the route "Lonesome Dove, Angry Falcon".

Andy Casler wrote:

The closure is essentially everything that's right of Cathedral Cave and everything that's left of the North End. 

Kind of interesting, I did get dive bombed by a peregrine when I rapped past The Bridge of Khazad-Dûm a few weeks ago. Though this is well outside of the closure, a peregrine had made a kill at the belay ledge, and I guess it didn't want me to steal its lunch. 

Looks like I was wrong about the closure area. It's much more limited than I thought. Admittedly, I didn't stop and read the signs. It's everything right of Cathedral Cave and everything left of Deidre

Thanks for the thread Andy! 

Andy, can you give more details to the Woodchuck closure? Is SYZ or Steamroller affected? Thanks

Christian, the closure at Woodchuck is usually for The Diamond Wall & Main Cliff (maybe the Upper Tier as well?).  Basically, everything from the Caterpillar Wall (Steamroller zone) and left  should be open and good to go.

Thanks for this info. Does anyone know if laughing lion has a falcon closure this year? 

Hey Dave.  There is no official closure at the Lion this season.  However, for all intents and purposes, the falcons are currently in charge of the Main Cliff.  Stuff on the far left or far right (Gully Wall) seem to be fine options though.

Not sure what official closure means per say Grant, so not arguing.. But there is a sign posted at the trailhead that peregrine closure is from Rainbow route to Nancy boy. That being said, a friend and I were roping up for lazy boy (technically open) and there was three peregrines dive bombing us and we quickly retreated. I’d assume they would be just as unhappy at the left end open routes (lions to rainbow), but who knows. They were very not stoked at our presence all day, screeching at us even on gully wall routes

That's some updated beta, thanks Mike.  I didn't see any postings when I was there a couple of weeks ago, nor have I seen it mentioned on any of the lists that have been circulating around from various sources.  But there you have it!

Hey. I've see. A couple of social media posts about various areas opening up. Is there a centralized list of re-openings? Or someone that can be asked? Andy's original post mentioned Chris Martin. I see an email online for him, and am happy to email. But, don't want to spam his inbox if not needed. 

B Gwrote:

Hey. I've see. A couple of social media posts about various areas opening up. Is there a centralized list of re-openings? Or someone that can be asked? Andy's original post mentioned Chris Martin. I see an email online for him, and am happy to email. But, don't want to spam his inbox if not needed. 

I just called Chris Martin on his office number. Super nice and super cool dude. He was pretty stoked to talk about the nesting. 

https://www.nhaudubon.org/about-us/staff-board/

DJ Frito Burritowrote:

I just called Chris Martin on his office number. Super nice and super cool dude. He was pretty stoked to talk about the nesting. 

https://www.nhaudubon.org/about-us/staff-board/

Give us those sweet details. What's opened?

B Gwrote:

Give us those sweet details. What's opened?

I talked to him in June and Rumney and the Eaglet were still closed. Pretty sure everything's open now. Double check to be safe. 

UPDATE SENT OUT THIS MORNING:

Hello climbers and natural resource managers –

I just wanted to update everyone:

All Peregrine Falcon seasonal climbing closures put in effect in Spring 2022 for NH nest sites have been removed.  Climb on!

We had a particularly good nesting success at cliffs with falcon postings this season: Cathedral fledged 4 young, while Band M, Frankenstein, Holts Ledge, Rumney Main Cliff, and Russell Crag all fledged 3 young each!  Only Eaglet and Woodchuck Ledge failed among the 8 sites that we posted.

Thanks again to all for your support of Peregrine Falcon management here in NH!  Please continue to send me updates when you encounter falcons at any areas where you climb.  NH Audubon and NH Fish & Game look forward to working with you again during the 2023 Peregrine nesting season.

- Chris