Surface rust on pitons

Probably a dumb question, but I just bought some pins and there's surface rust on them. Can I sand them down with steel wool and then oil them with something to prevent rust? If so, any suggestions on oil?

When you sand them down to remove the surface rust more of the black oxide coating will be removed and cause further surface corrosion. Obviously using the pitons wears this oxide off too.

If you are concerned with maintaining that protective layer you can treat them with metal bluing solution after removing the surface rust, or use a rust reformation liquid that converts the rust into black oxide.

Oil and waxes will only offer a temporary solution.

Conversely, leaving that surface rust isn’t going to cause great problems with this type of equipment.

*for what it’s worth, I maintain all of my equipment.

Wipe them off, oil them up a bit and don’t every worry about them again. I have pins that I bought in the early 70s that are a little bit rusty and still perfectly useable.

Big Wall Theorists have shiny clean pitons.

Cool Kids have beat-to-hell rusty pitons.  

Adam Fleming wrote:

 If so, any suggestions on oil?

WD40 works just fine

Patina

Thoughts about carbon steel knives.

"We found that if a knife developed a light charcoal-gray patina naturally over time, it was less likely to rust if left wet. To put this protection in place quickly, some manufacturers suggest forcing a patina to develop on the blade. We tried one method: soaking the blade in vinegar (a low pH environment favors the production of magnetite) and then washing and wiping it dry. The approach gave the knife a matte, grippy finish that created undesirable drag in food, and more important, the blade ended up rusting more easily. The upshot? The best way to develop a protective patina and avoid rust is to use your carbon-steel knife regularly, to wipe it dry continually during use, and to rinse and dry it thoroughly as soon as you’ve finished a cutting task."

https://www.cooksillustrated.com/how_tos/8900-carbon-steel-knives-why-a-patina-matters

 In general, if there isn't serious corrosion and missing material, strength should be ok with a light patina of rust, though look for any cracks--they will be rusted and become weak too. But a light layer of fine sewing oil is good preservative.

Not necessary relevant, but if you are interested in identifying old wrought iron by its rust, this video pretty good: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QLZrvvkdoKw and also get insight into train aficionados (I have been researching the steel used in the Canadian Pacific Railway). 

He outlines a system of discerning steel from wrought iron at minute 5:30, which would be a real interesting test for some of the late 1800's pitons.

Peter Zabrok wrote:

Big Wall Theorists have shiny clean pitons.

Cool Kids have beat-to-hell rusty pitons.  

Would you try to straighten this guy out, or let the rock do it next time out?

Andy Wiesner wrote:

Would you try to straighten this guy out, or let the rock do it next time out?

Absolutely, getting your pitons back flat after each wall is a normal task.  Using an anvil be best, but a nice parking lot rock will do too.

The evolution and understanding of optimal heat treatments for various size/design pitons is an interesting topic (for engineering geeks).  Some details at bigwallgear.com in piton chapters.