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Fixed Rope type for multipitch development. Dynamic or static? (JUGGGING AND ROPESOLO)

Original Post
Alexander Roth-Glasscock · · Telluride, CO · Joined May 2014 · Points: 100

Sorry if this is the wrong forum to post this in but I figure you bigwall folks might have some insight. 

So I'm looking to develop a multipitch route that I've been scoping for a while and I'd like to go top down and hang some fixed lines so I can go clean and work the route by myself due to the lack of partners in my area that are psyched on route development. My idea is to fix a  long static line (300') at the top and then fix individual pitches off the anchors I drill. I figured I'd probably want a thicker static rope(11mm or so) for this due to leaving it up and the amount of jugging I'd be doing but I'd also be traxing the line once I got the route cleaned and I only have experience traxing dynamic rope single pitch. I dont imagine I'd be taking any actual falls while traxing and more just gently weighting the rope but it seems most people prefer dynamic for traxing?

Also I'm looking at ropes and is there much difference if any between a static rope meant for caving and one you'd use for jugging? Seems like the caving rope would be fine but my wall experience is limited to using friends gear and I don't want to buy the wrong thing and get myself into trouble.

Peter Zabrok · · Hamilton, ON · Joined Dec 2007 · Points: 645

Definitely static rope for fixing and jugging. There is a reason cavers use 11mm static for fixing and jugging. 

Yann Camus can tell you everything about solo toproping static vs. dynamic. 

Highline Ropes in Canada is your best deal by far on static rope with your mighty You-Ess dollars going a long way in the Great White North. 

Contact Andy: mail@highlineropes.com

Andy can make you whatever diameter you like, and you can get either stiff caving rope or flexible static haul line. 

Mikey Schaefer · · Reno, NV · Joined Jun 2014 · Points: 233

If you have to buy ropes to use, statics are generally preferable.  If you have a stack of old dynamic rope laying around they will also work.  Just try and be mindful of where you use the static vs dynamic.  You will be happier jugging the statics when the terrain is overhanging and there are more possible spots of abrasion.  If you are a working on a low angle clean slab the dynamic will be just fine.  

11mm statics are generally overkill unless you are bolting on very sharp limestone.  I'd say the standard is a 10mm and just be smart about directions and where you fix the rope.  The 11mm will be annoying to fixed line TR on as it won't feed super nicely.  They can also be super annoying to rap on with a gri gri so you'd probably want to use a different device for rapping.

Sam Skovgaard · · Port Angeles, WA · Joined Oct 2017 · Points: 208

Static fo sho

Linnaeus · · ID · Joined Aug 2011 · Points: 0

11mm static doesn't work with a microtrax for TR solo'ing routes (although I think the older minitrax would work or at least fit the rope). 

Kevin Stricker · · Evergreen, CO · Joined Oct 2002 · Points: 1,242

Why buy a rope that’s likely to get trashed if you leave it up for a while?  Why buy a rope for a single use? How steep is the wall, And what is the chance for rock fall damaging the lines? How often will you be getting on the project?  Will you develop/clean and work from the bottom up or top down(preferred) once the line is determined?  These are the real determining factors to consider.  If you expect to do a lot of jugging and there are lots of features that could abraid the line and your coming in from the bottom a static line will give you more security

I’ve been using old dynamic cords for what your suggesting for years with no real issues. To me it’s the best way to get full life out of a rope, even with core shots you can isolate with knots or cut down for shorter pitches 

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Big Wall and Aid Climbing
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