I’m more worried about the amount of pressure you drive through your feet when climbing. Also taking lead falls. It might take a bit of time to get comfortable on both those fronts, but we’ll see.
We might rebolt the caves this summer, if that happens there isnt much to hit if you fall!
I’m guessing your mentioning bust a move, because you stalked my ticks?
That and my 3 finger drag on one arm 20mm edge was exactly 80% when I sent bust a move!
That’s a climb I’ve never tried more than once a day, it’s always an afterthought at the end of the day, and I’ve one hung it a couple times. It’s something that would go down pre injury if I just tried it a couple times in a day and remembered what to do. I will say though, that I do remember the crux for me was moving my left foot up. That sends a lot of pressure through the right foot (broken side) and actually the exact type of move I’m worried about.
I forgot about the feet! Regardless that/state of perplexity/digitalis (the fall might not be great for your foot?) should go fast for you!
I have to echo what Mike Schaefer was saying. I tore my ACL in August of 2021, couldn't get surgery until October. Trained from the period of August to March, with a week off here and there and came from sending a gunks 5.12 in several sessions to leading 10 or so gunks 5.12s in a month. Best thing that ever happened to my climbing career. Some days I wake up and think my knee hurts only to realize it was my OTHER knee that I had the surgery on.
Attack your PT, attack your hangboard, you'll come back stronger than ever.
Eric Marx
wrote:
I have to echo what Mike Schaefer was saying. I tore my ACL in August of 2021, couldn't get surgery until October. Trained from the period of August to March, with a week off here and there and came from sending a gunks 5.12 in several sessions to leading 10 or so gunks 5.12s in a month. Best thing that ever happened to my climbing career. Some days I wake up and think my knee hurts only to realize it was my OTHER knee that I had the surgery on. Attack your PT, attack your hangboard, you'll come back stronger than ever.
Thanks for the story and inspiration. Stoked you came back stronger!
I’m not a 20 year old kid made of putty either. I’m 30 and I’m still healthier than ever. Everything heals in time! Thought I’m sure the arthritis down the road won’t be so pleasant haha