If you only had two days in JTree...?

Heading to JTree end of the month - tacking two days onto a work trip

Hoping to expand my trad leading and looking for area/route suggestions

Thanks!

Day 1 - intersection rock - you got the bong, the eye, double cross, Mike’s books, the flake, toe jam all minutes away and many more moderate classics to warm up on, then… 

Day 2 - sail away, lazy day, the swift, or go to Hemmingway or Indian cove; —white cliffs of Dover or conans corridor for harder 9s/10’s.

Hemingway buttress and the rock garden have a great selection of moderate cracks, good quality and of varying length. For sure intersection rock if you aren't there on the weekend, then it's better to go a little further out.

The gear shop will also rent you a crash pad to go bouldering if you have a partner snafu

Santanas for the california breakfast burrito too

I would spend a day at split rocks. Climb Continuum (5.8++) and invisibility lessons (5.9). From what I remember, both are about 80 ft tall, which is tall for j tree. Then I would cruise over to isle in the sky (also split rocks and beautiful view) and climb nectar (5.4, stellar crack), dolphin (hardest 5.7 around) and bird of fire (my favorite 10a in j tree). You can top rope dolphin and BOF after leading nectar. 

Another fun day could be at echo rock. You'd get a good feel of j tree friction slab with great protection over at hidden slab area. Touch n go and popes crack are over there (my favorite 9s in the park). Then you could get a feel of really runout, but easy, j tree slab by doing stichter quits. I have also heard bambi meets godzilla is a blast!!

Have fun :)

tks wrote:

The gear shop will also rent you a crash pad to go bouldering if you have a partner snafu

Santanas for the california breakfast burrito too

It's called Castaneda's now and it's not good. Kasa Market in Yucca is much better.

Thanks for the suggestions!

A bit more context/background:

I have been to JTree once before for two days two years ago - I climbed at Echo Cove, Lost Horse, and Intersection, almost everything on TR.  I led one pitch on Dappled Mare, and led Upper Right Ski Track

Since then I have led trad up to 5.8 (mostly here in the Northeast), although for context I have led sport up to 5.10c

I definitely need to work on jamming, and probably slab - although I really do not enjoy it!

Josh Rappoport wrote:

Thanks for the suggestions!

A bit more context/background:

I have been to JTree once before for two days two years ago - I climbed at Echo Cove, Lost Horse, and Intersection, almost everything on TR.  I led one pitch on Dappled Mare, and led Upper Right Ski Track

Since then I have led trad up to 5.8 (mostly here in the Northeast), although for context I have led sport up to 5.10c

I definitely need to work on jamming, and probably slab - although I really do not enjoy it!

Everything I mentioned, except for pope's crack, stichter quits, and maybe BMG, you can set a TR on. For isle in the sky all you have to do is lead nectar and you can set a TR on any other route on the wall. All routes I mentioned would give great slab and jam practice from finger locks to offwidth

Tristan P wrote:

Everything I mentioned, except for pope's crack, stichter quits, and maybe BMG, you can set a TR on. For isle in the sky all you have to do is lead nectar and you can set a TR on any other route on the wall. All routes I mentioned would give great slab and jam practice from finger locks to offwidth

Thanks!  

Just added a few Split Rock cracks to the list - Nectar & Dolphin

Maybe TR Bird of Fire as well!

Dairy Queen Wall has well protected 5.7 and 5.8 moderates with holds, and the routes are not too slabby or grainy. 

bryans wrote:

Dairy Queen Wall has well protected 5.7 and 5.8 moderates with holds, and the routes are not too slabby or grainy. 

Wow!  DQ wall looks awesome

Josh Rappoport wrote:

Wow!  DQ wall looks awesome

That wall is probably the most type 1 fun I've had at J tree. Sail Away, Bird of Fire, Nurn's Romp, Pinched Rib, Lazy Day, White Lightning, Prepackaged, Illusion Dweller, Fote Hog, Touch and Go, Hobbit Roof, Gem, Colorado Crack, Room to Shroom, are some other non-sandbagged (or at least not too sandbagged) routes that can actually be enjoyed by visitors. I've led most of them, been on all of them, can vouch for them. Many of J tree's routes will seem grainy and runout and humbling/scary to anyone not eating a steady diet of j tree style routes.

Lost Horse Wall with the Swift, Dappled Mare an Bird on a wire gives excellnt and pretty long routes for Jtree, nice view from the 'summit', then finish off the day on the Headstone at sunset

You could lead Nurns romp and then walk over and set up an easy top rope on The Excorcist 10.a

So...just back from JTree (and wow are my hands shredded!)

Thanks for the great ideas everyone!

We hit up Lost Horse (The Swift), and Rock Garden (Rock Candy, Rock-a-Lot, and Split Personality - my first 5.9 trad lead).  We also did some routes on DQ, Echo Cove, and Saddle Rocks - highlights included the starting sequence of Oceans on the Night (on TR and no send), and summitting Saddle Rocks with a few adventurous pitches on lead after following on Harley Queen