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trango jaws--why discontinued?

Original Post
Erroll M · · durham NC · Joined Nov 2021 · Points: 5

just wondering. came across one in new-unused-condition today and was really intrigued by the design; i find it a lot more ergonomic than the similarly-compact basic ATC. couldn't find any related accidents/deaths that implicated the device itself. ideas/anecdotes?

acrophobe · · Orange, CT · Joined Jul 2010 · Points: 0

I threw mine out years ago.  During a leader fall, there is a possibility of the rope coming to rest outside the V-grooves.  Unlike similar devices, the grooves have a very high shoulder that can make it difficult to move the rope laterally back to a braking position in the middle of a trying to hold the forces of a leader fall.  Had a very scary experience.

Webfoot · · Oregon · Joined Jul 2018 · Points: 0

I use one for dedicated rappelling.  There it is useful to be able to move the rope out of the groove for less friction or into the V for more, on the fly.  It has more friction in the latter mode than an ATC XP.  I belay with an ATC Guide.

Webfoot · · Oregon · Joined Jul 2018 · Points: 0

I got the idea to use the Jaws for rappelling from Dr. Gary D. Storrick's Vertical Museum.  I wanted to link it before but I couldn't find the page since the domain changed.

I like this design enough to give it three stars: 

The following notched belay tubes, including the Trango Jaws, are essentially the same device:

Alpidex Silenos,  Apex Rock Mako Clymb,  Climb X Mako,  Climbing Technology Double V-Row,  Edelrid Lotse (a.k.a. Multigrip),  Salewa Tubus,  Singing Rock Hornet,  Trango Jaws,  Zero-G G-Wedge (a.k.a. Multigrip)

Each of these is 60±1 mm. long and 48±1 mm. wide, and has a weight in the 76±3 g. range. Their slots are all 33 mm. long and 15 mm. wide.

These are just like many other devices except for one little difference, but that difference makes any of these a much better device than those others. The special feature is the teeth. First of all, if  you don't need them, turn the device 180 degrees and they are  out of the way. On the other hand, if you want more friction, then these teeth provide it. This is the only device design of this size and weight that I feel comfortable rappelling my 9 mm. haul line on, with the others, I never really felt completely in control (to be fair, I haven't tried this on the the Omega Pacific SBG or the Simond Cubik).  The extra control is well worth carrying the extra 15 or 20 grams. One caution: like all belay tubes and tubers, these can get very hot on rappels.

As indicated the device is still available under other names.   climbingtechnology.com/en/o…

slim · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Dec 2004 · Points: 1,093

I had a couple and really liked them, except for the fact that the cables on both of them broke when climbing chimneys. Lost and gone forever.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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