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Old Rag Grades Difficulty Scale

Original Post
Rob Jarvis · · Unknown Hometown · Joined May 2017 · Points: 140

Just wondering how the grades at old rag compare to the rest of the region, 

Are they on par with route grades in Great Falls/Carderock/Seneca? Or do they correspond with modern routes?

Bryan L · · VA · Joined Dec 2017 · Points: 231

Definitely more old school grading. 

Jake Jones · · Richmond, VA · Joined Jun 2021 · Points: 170
Rob Jarvis wrote:

Just wondering how the grades at old rag compare to the rest of the region, 

Are they on par with route grades in Great Falls/Carderock/Seneca? Or do they correspond with modern routes?

5.9 at Seneca is a bit harder in my experience.  Bushwhack Crack is right on (maybe a little sandbagged at 5.10c but it's short, so meh), OMG Dihedral is accurate, Strawberry Fields is accurate, never done any of the harder lines there but all the ones I've done seem to be on par with most crags- particularly the NRG.  Cracks at Old Rag seem to be about the same grade as their counterparts further west in in WV.  Seneca, in my experience is a beast all its own.  I've always been better at finding good solid pro in Granite and in the Nuttal Sandstone at the New as opposed to the Quartzite at places like Seneca and Moore's Wall in NC, so take my opinion with a grain of salt.  Things may feel harder though because the approach with a rack, rope, water and food is burly for some of these routes, particularly Bushwhack Crack, but it's the best 5.10 hand crack in probably all of the state, so there's that.

Rob Jarvis · · Unknown Hometown · Joined May 2017 · Points: 140
Jake Jones wrote:

5.9 at Seneca is a bit harder in my experience.  Bushwhack Crack is right on (maybe a little sandbagged at 5.10c but it's short, so meh), OMG Dihedral is accurate, Strawberry Fields is accurate, never done any of the harder lines there but all the ones I've done seem to be on par with most crags- particularly the NRG.  Cracks at Old Rag seem to be about the same grade as their counterparts further west in in WV.  Seneca, in my experience is a beast all its own.  I've always been better at finding good solid pro in Granite and in the Nuttal Sandstone at the New as opposed to the Quartzite at places like Seneca and Moore's Wall in NC, so take my opinion with a grain of salt.  Things may feel harder though because the approach with a rack, rope, water and food is burly for some of these routes, particularly Bushwhack Crack, but it's the best 5.10 hand crack in probably all of the state, so there's that.

Thanks Jake. I havent made it out to bushwhack crack yet, but was wondering if there's a way to set it on TR from the top? Otherwise I expect to be hangdogging my way up

Jake Jones · · Richmond, VA · Joined Jun 2021 · Points: 170
Rob Jarvis wrote:

Thanks Jake. I havent made it out to bushwhack crack yet, but was wondering if there's a way to set it on TR from the top? Otherwise I expect to be hangdogging my way up

Maybe?  There probably is, but don't worry, if you take a bunch of .75-3 with you, you can definitely aid past whatever you need to.  The bottom is tough to get established in, and the middle where the crack is offset and opens up a bit is tough, other than that, you can find good jams.  Just tape up.  The anchor, as I recall (been a few years since I was up there) is a couple of fixed stoppers, so you may want to back it up with one bomber piece, then tie them all together if you're going to dog it up then do TR laps on it.  It's a great route!  The offwidth next to it is good as well.  Take a look at The The while you're down there too.  I don't (read: CAN'T) climb cracks that are that difficult, but looking at it makes me want to every time.  It'll chew you up though!

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Southern States
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