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Current approach to Tahquitz/Suicide

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Matt Himmelstein · · Orange, CA · Joined Jun 2014 · Points: 194

Anyone know the current conditions for Tahquitz or Suicide.  I am assuming the trails and routes are all clear, but I wanted to double check.

Dave Schultz · · Quantico, VA · Joined Nov 2021 · Points: 5

Trail snow free through to ECR on the west face. Assume friction descent is snow free (or at least you can avoid enough). 

To the left of Finger Trip faces pretty far north and will still be quite cold with little to no sun, still visible snow on ledges, but probably still manageable.

Suicide is probably more clear since it gets more sun.

We started climbing around 830 or so and it was still cold, msybe a 9 or 930 launch would better, or start more on the south face with something there and then chase the sun around.

Tanner James · · Sierras · Joined Dec 2019 · Points: 1,333

Climbed Tahquitz all last weekend. Totally enjoyable conditions, 100% snow free from the car to the summit with the only exception being some patches at the base on the west side but it can all be avoided totally. Ledges are all clean and dry we were comfortable in just a Jacket on the vamp 

On a related note, I’m looking for a partner for Saturday if anyone’s in the market

x15x15 · · Use Ignore Button · Joined Mar 2009 · Points: 280

You know what makes climbing in So Cal so awesome... now.

Too long ago while ice climbing, which is often just "scratching the rock" here, I clipped  a few bolt on The Weeping Wall. Hangers were visible in the ice. It seemed no more than 3 days after we were in rock shoes on the weeping wall. 

Stin Man · · Encinitas, CA · Joined Jun 2019 · Points: 65

Has anyone done the northwest recess or Y crack? A few weekends ago everything was good westside but we couldn't get to Super Pooper or Dave's sexy ass deviation because of the wind drift at the base. 

Tanner James · · Sierras · Joined Dec 2019 · Points: 1,333
Stin Manwrote:

Has anyone done the northwest recess or Y crack? A few weekends ago everything was good westside but we couldn't get to Super Pooper or Dave's sexy ass deviation because of the wind drift at the base. 

I was able to piece together dry easy rock to the base of the vampires direct start Sunday pretty easily, super pooper being doable from there also. There’s one 6-8ft snow section you’d have to cross if you wanted to do Dave’s but there were steps kicked into it and we walked right across 

Stin Man · · Encinitas, CA · Joined Jun 2019 · Points: 65

Those were my steps. That shit was fucking sketchay. 

Matt Himmelstein · · Orange, CA · Joined Jun 2014 · Points: 194

Thanks guys.  Super helpful.

RAZORsharp · · CA · Joined Nov 2010 · Points: 780

Anyone looking for a partner this weekend? Wouldn't mind a lap up the vamp in the afternoon. Or shenanigans to get to the bolted pitch 3 of stairway to heaven for some laps.

Stin Man · · Encinitas, CA · Joined Jun 2019 · Points: 65

Idy girlzz, anyone been up there in the last couple days?

Heading up tomorrow either way but trying to gauge between ol lily and suicide. Will report back. 

James Robertson · · Idyllwild, Ca. · Joined Nov 2018 · Points: 0
Stin Manwrote:

Idy girlzz, anyone been up there in the last couple days?

Heading up tomorrow either way but trying to gauge between ol lily and suicide. Will report back. 

Two feet of snow at lunch rock.

Stin Man · · Encinitas, CA · Joined Jun 2019 · Points: 65

Absolutely socked in with snow. Went up suicide, 2+ feet the whole way and then about 10+ at the base of the routes, completely impassable without snow shoes or due process. All soft snow. The routes themeselves are dry west of Pass Time. 

Caleb Milner · · Salt Lake City · Joined Feb 2015 · Points: 25

The North face Tahquitz approach is deep as well. At least a foot of snow and deeper in some drifts. I broke trail up to the NE face and around to the Hinterland corridor, no other tracks around. Ascending up to the Hinterland wall was a nightmare, one step up a foot just to slide back down 10 inches. Slooooooow

RAZORsharp · · CA · Joined Nov 2010 · Points: 780

Got out to the south face of Tahquitz yesterday. Little deep, not really a problem. Did some single pitch stuff so cant attest to the friction descent. Brought the spikes but didnt feel the need for them.

RAZORsharp · · CA · Joined Nov 2010 · Points: 780

Just a heads up if your head isn't on a swivel, forecasted foot of snow or more headed our Soul Cal way later this week. 
Caleb Milner · · Salt Lake City · Joined Feb 2015 · Points: 25
RAZORsharpwrote:

Just a heads up if your head isn't on a swivel, forecasted foot of snow or more headed our Soul Cal way later this week.

SnowCal! Bring on the snow, more winter… I need it 

Matt Pena · · Jtree · Joined Dec 2018 · Points: 75

Anyone want to climb at suicide tomorrow? Last min but worth a try!

J B · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2019 · Points: 42

Anyone been up there since the last storm? Thinking about getting up there Sunday/Monday

James Robertson · · Idyllwild, Ca. · Joined Nov 2018 · Points: 0

Just went to lunch rock.  Still 1 1/2 snow.  I kicked out most of it.  After that you are on your own.

Caleb Milner · · Salt Lake City · Joined Feb 2015 · Points: 25
James Robertsonwrote:

Just went to lunch rock.  Still 1 1/2 snow.  I kicked out most of it.  After that you are on your own.

Can confirm. Postholed my way down from the Open Book area 2 days ago in the dark. I came down and around from the North Gully descent so there’s steps to follow all the way up if you choose to go that far 

Corey Bringas · · Los Angeles, CA · Joined May 2018 · Points: 65

Any update on the current suicide approach? 

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Southern California
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