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Squamish in Spring?

Original Post
Joshua de Riba · · Petaluma, CA · Joined Apr 2018 · Points: 15

Howdy folks, 

I'm thinking to head to Squamish for ~6 weeks, beginning April. Anyone know how the rock is this time of year? If I want to climb 4-5 days/week on either sport or trad is it easy to find dry stuff? Is water runoff a show stopper and is it better to wait a month or two? Thanks for the intel!

UPDATE 3/30: Will be going June-July rather than spring. PM if interested in meeting up! I'll be traveling solo. 5.10- trad, 5.12 sport. 

Cheers,

Josh

Brian in SLC · · Sandy, UT · Joined Oct 2003 · Points: 22,822

Here's a fun chart...shows the probability of precip in April:

We did a trip in May a few years back.  Still had rain on probably 1/3 of our week long trip.  

Part of the issue with April, for me, would be that with colder temperatures, even a list misty rain would take longer to dry from the rock.

Joshua de Riba · · Petaluma, CA · Joined Apr 2018 · Points: 15

Per rec's I'll be getting out to BC June+July. Obviously I'll be getting myself into some good cracks in Squamish, but I'll admit--my trad weakness is my addiction to sport.

Anyone have good recs on must-see sport crags in BC (squamish or elsewhere)? Grade-wise I'm looking for 5.12s and am hoping to check out a few different areas close or far, with good quality stone ;).

Cheers,

Josh

Some Guy · · Squamish, BC · Joined Apr 2016 · Points: 0

Yea, June/July are much better bet. April could be great, or it could rain for 3 weeks straight. Always a gamble. 

As for other places to check out, I'd highly recommend Skaha bluffs in Penticton. Fantastic and limitless single pitch sport climbs on great stone. If it's wet in Squamish you can usually escape it by heading there. 

Joshua de Riba · · Petaluma, CA · Joined Apr 2018 · Points: 15

Thanks! Skaha looks great. 

Have you ever been to Horne lake? I'm interested to check this place out but seems further out and maybe harder to stumble upon other solo travelers and climbing partners. I'd taking any camping rec's for this area (I'll be in a van). Otherwise, I'm hoping to meet some folks around Squamish that would be up to go to Horne lake for a week or so in June/July timeframe.

Some Guy · · Squamish, BC · Joined Apr 2016 · Points: 0

Yep. Horne is great if you like hard limestone climbing, however its far from a destination like Squamish so yes you'd have a much more difficult time of stumbling on partners. Best to find people to go with as you said. Would also cut the cost of the ferry over to Vancouver Island that you have to take to get there which is around $150 round trip to take your van on. Horne lake has its own campground if you could find availability. I don't actually know about free van camping there as I've never had to worry about it. I'm sure with some digging you'll be able to find options. Lots of logging roads around there.

Ope · · NFA · Joined Oct 2012 · Points: 0

Horne Lake is on private property.  Closed till further notice.  Thx

Rogelio Cazares · · Toronto ON Canada · Joined Sep 2017 · Points: 0

Hey Josh, I'll be traveling to Squamish from Toronto from April 13th to the 26th. I'll be looking for people to climb with and I have a vehicle. I'm available to climb everyday in the afternoon and on (I need to do some work in the mornings). I comfortable leading/red pointing 5.12c sport, and 5.9 trad, V5 bouldering.  I'll be open to go to skaha for a few days if the weather is shit in Squamish. Let me know if you'd like to climb.

Joshua de Riba · · Petaluma, CA · Joined Apr 2018 · Points: 15

Hey Rogelio, looks like we‘ll miss each other. Bummer as we’re similar levels! I’ll be in the area the whole month of June and free to climb weekends + weekdays.

If others are looking for partners in June, PM me! Def hoping to push into the 10+ in trad once I brush off the rust.

I’ll be in a van and would gladly take any camping beta.   

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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