Rate My Rack (Size Distribution Graph Included)

Eric Demo wrote:

ditch the tricams and metolius cams, add offset nuts, and another full rack of wild country's from .1 zero to #4 friend and youll be in good shape.  also get some alpine draws.

why would you suggest ditching metolius?

Climb On wrote:

why would you suggest ditching metolius?

I'm not the original commenter, but there's been a lot of discussion about small cams being less useful for new trad leaders.  The expansion range on a purple metolius is so small that it needs to be placed absolutely perfectly to stay in.  You need to seriously consider rock type / hollowness / potential for flex.  You also need to have a really good understanding on how the piece will walk if you climb above it, and how it will load when you take the whip.

Meanwhile, the tolerances on placing the largest totem are huge. The thing's so goddamn floppy it'll hardly ever walk, and even if you place it in a flexy flake it'll expand enough to stay in.

bmdhacks wrote:

I'm not the original commenter, but there's been a lot of discussion about small cams being less useful for new trad leaders.  The expansion range on a purple metolius is so small that it needs to be placed absolutely perfectly to stay in.  You need to seriously consider rock type / hollowness / potential for flex.  You also need to have a really good understanding on how the piece will walk if you climb above it, and how it will load when you take the whip.

Meanwhile, the tolerances on placing the largest totem are huge. The thing's so goddamn floppy it'll hardly ever walk, and even if you place it in a flexy flake it'll expand enough to stay in.

I agree with everything you say but given the absence of other placement opportunities it's probably better than nothing.  The commenter suggested a WC .1 so they're advocating for small cams just in a different brand.

bmdhacks wrote:

...the expansion range on a purple metolius is so small that it needs to be placed absolutely perfectly to stay in.  ...

Meanwhile, the tolerances on placing the largest totem are huge. The thing's so goddamn floppy it'll hardly ever walk, and even if you place it in a flexy flake it'll expand enough to stay in.

1) Any small cam (let's say smaller than black totem) has a tiny expansion range and should be placed perfectly.

2) Since when do we place gear anywhere near flexy flakes?

Patrik wrote:

2) Since when do we place gear anywhere near flexy flakes?

Obviously we're not placing bad protection, but I've also been surprised at how easy it is to booty fixed pieces by placing a cam next to it and bouncing on it to induce flex.

I'm just saying routes like this will have some amount of flex if you whipped on your gear:
https://www.mountainproject.com/route/106842574/karens-math

Climb On wrote:

why would you suggest ditching metolius?

im a gear whore and have at least one of pretty much all the common cams.  the wild country zeros and dmm dragonflies are way easier to place and are way less likely to walk because of the flexible stems.  the WC has more useable range than the met.  the powercams in particular walk like crazy.  theyre safe, but not very ergonomic compared to the small cams that have been released in the last few years. 

Eric Moss wrote:

The green part of the chart is my active pro curve within the overall pro curve

Pretty upset that no one has mentioned the Excel file name. The name is high quality. Papa's got style.

...cams are goody too I guess.

Ethan G wrote:

Pretty upset that no one has mentioned the Excel file name. The name is high quality. Papa's got style.

...cams are goody too I guess.

You missed it, I gave you props on page 1!

Climb On wrote:

You missed it, I gave you props on page 1!

*walks away in shame

spend more time climbing and less on the computer and you would know the quality of your rack

I’m jealous of the black camp USA carabiner

good start, but if i'm being honest, 3/10 for the small size 

Size Distribution Graph Inside

Strings Attached wrote:

Size Distribution Graph Inside

Size distribution looks even

Sell the stupid bulky over rated totems and buy two c4's or Metolius cams for every one you sell. 

Cmon Tim, that hurts. 

Jesse Keith wrote:

Cmon Tim, that hurts. 

Sorry Jesse, I know the truth hurts. 

Tim Page wrote:

Sell the stupid bulky over rated totems and buy two c4's or Metolius cams for every one you sell. 

They make me feel safer, that's how I justify them haha

Nice start and love the data driven approach. 

Scoring: 10/10 - just enjoy your first rack! You're gonna want more, kinda like tattoos. Wow @ starting with totems! They're either love or hate, I love them.

Feedback: split the nuts across 2 carbs. The purple ulmc #8 ( small BD #3) matches best with the orange totem imo. 

: double with friends ( ZF's are fun), go BD c4 if #4 or above.