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Not using slings after using them for prusiks?

Original Post
Cody Linsend · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Oct 2019 · Points: 30

I read from Vdiffclimbing that once you use a nylon sling for any prusik, then you shouldn't use it for anything besides a prusik after that.

 "A narrow nylon sling is better than dyneema (spectra). Don’t use a sling for anything except a prusik after using it once as a prusik."

Normally they provide good info but this doesn't make much sense. Can anyone evaluate or disagree? I don't see why you couldn't use it normally after... I've done it before.

greggrylls · · Salt Lake City · Joined Apr 2016 · Points: 276

If I was regularly using a sling as a Prusik or after a irregular use it showed noticeable wear and tear I would dedicate it to prusik duty or tat.  

For the odd use or two I don’t see a problem but prusik slings see dramatic wear compared to a regular runner hence the recommendation.

Gunkiemike · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2009 · Points: 3,687

Unless it's visibly glazed or abraded, I'd have no problem putting it back in normal service.  I would expect some glazing though if you fly down a rap using it as an autoblock.

Cody Linsend · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Oct 2019 · Points: 30

I wouldn't expect any damage. When I use a sling for a prusik I'm using it as a klemheist knot to ascend/un-weight my gear on a TRS fall.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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