What is a “standard rack” in NE?
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I’m just starting to get into trad climbing (signed up for an intro course in a couple weeks). When I look at routes on MP, most just say “standard rack” for protection. I know this is somewhat location dependent… so what is a standard rack in NE? Specifically, for the easier routes on Cathedral Ledge (Upper Refuse, Thin air, etc). Any protection that is especially well-suited? |
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In my experience it's the usual standard rack: single or double set of cams (depending on comfort; pitches aren't too long at Cathedral and they take nuts well so you can often get by just fine with a single set of cams) to #3, plus a set of nuts (offset or regular). If you climb at the Whitehorse slabs, you may want tricams for pockets. Plus 6-8 or so slings. |
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A single rack (0.2-3) cams and a set of nuts will get you pretty much up anything on Cathedral, especially the easier routes. Some doubles in the medium hand sizes (.75-2) would be nice for the 5.9-10 cracks. |
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on cathedral I really like .2-3 doubles .3-1. dmm offset stoppers and a few larger brassies, as well as 8 alpine draws. |
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a single set of BD nuts to #13 doubbles of #5 and #7 plus a #5 wild Country rock. Single set of cams from something purple metelous TCU size to #3 big blue BD. doubbles of .75 green BD and red. add stuff from there as needed . Do Not waste money on tri cams or hexes if you are just starting out. put that money twords cams. cams fit in those pockets on white horse just as well as tricams. |
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Start single rack, I went on sizes .4-3 ... you can easily find deals from companies on a 5 cams starter pack. Full set of nuts from anyone. then alpine draws. After that you can lead whatever and go buy the extra stuff as you see fit. Doubles of .5-2 were my first buys. I own a pink tricam, I place it a lot less often, It's overhyped. Hexes just make noise. Which you wont want as good protection for a newbie leader. You wont use them unless its all you have. |
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You'll enjoy having a lot of long runners and some doubles when you make your first trips to the gunks. I find extra cams from 0.3-0.75 to be most useful. Consider getting some cams with the narrow heads like totems or Z4s |
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BD C4s up to 3.0. Doubles from 0.4-2.0. I like the doubles because it gives me the peace of mind to be liberal with my placements - especially if you’re building gear anchors. It doesn’t have to be BD C4s but their sizing is typically used as a reference in these types of discussions I agree that your doubles should be something else, like Totems. I also agree you need long runners. You’ll be miserable with quickdraws. |
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When starting out trad climbing, a lot of folks set themselves up in a tough paradox: For what I want to do, what is the least I need? Where at that point in their climbing, they should be bringing extras of everything - on your first 20 or so trad leads, you really don't want to be stressing about running out of gear (for the climb or anchor). Gear is pricy (especially if starting out from nothing), so if you can pair up with a friend or mentor to make sure you have sufficient gear. Like what most everyone said, at a minimum: full set of nuts, doubles from 0.3 - 1 c4 (or equivalent), singles 2 & 3, 10 slings, cordellete or long runner for anchor, and four lockers. Doesn't hurt to carry more than that... |
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Offset Nuts, especially in small sizes (micro nuts) are a must-have IMO. Also, call me crazy, but I love having my micro cams (0-0.2) especially in Gunks and Daks |
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A few ballnuts, pink - brown tricams, slung hexes, dmm offsets and brass balls. |
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thats funny matt. while i like offsets i only have two. one nut and one cam yet somehow have managed to climb for 40 years... so aparently they are not an absolute Must have.... |
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Matt Kelly wrote: I think there's a consensus around here (NY) that really small gear isn't really that necessary until you're in the 5.9 and up range (which I imagine OP is not yet). |
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Matt Kelly wrote: When the author says NE I think he means New England, not the Northeast. So presumably he is thinking about places like Cathedral, not New York. Personally, I haven't found offset nuts that useful in places like Cathedral, Whitehorse, Cannon, and Farley. |
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Thanks for the input! I ended up going for a single set of BD nuts (#4-13) and a set of WC Friends (#0.4-3), plus some alpine draws, etc. It's enough to at least start practicing (placing pro on TR and then putting some weight on it). Once I have a bit more experience, I can get some more location specific gear.
Yeah, that's the predicament I have right now... I have a friend getting into trad as well, so hopefully between us, we'll have enough gear.
Yeah, sorry, I meant New England. |