Best Overnight Alpine Climbing Packs

Anyone have opinions or packs they love?

Specifically looking for where you have to climb with the pack/carryover. Currently in the cascades and there’s lots of such objectives, but little out there about recs, reviews or even lists of options outside of the discontinued Arcteryx AR 45 and I guess some Hyperlight stuff. A reasonable range is probably 35-50L depending upon temperature.

I’m also in the market if anyone has an old one they’re looking to get 

The Osprey Mutant 38 is a great pack for pretty much anything. I haven’t done a lot of alpine climbing, but I have used it for lots of adventure-style rock climbing with walk-offs, plus cragging, backcountry skiing, ice climbing, mountaineering, some overnight backpacking… 

It holds quite a bit for a pack advertised as 38L, but one of the best things about it is the way it carries when less than full. Much of the volume is up near the top of the pack; when you’re not carrying a lot, you can cinch a few straps and make it feel like a much smaller pack. I have led some sketchy run-out NC slab with a heavy jacket, water, snacks, and approach shoes, and the pack was not on my mind at all. 

Zachary Zwick wrote:

 but little out there about recs, reviews or even lists of options outside of the discontinued Arcteryx AR 45 and I guess some Hyperlight stuff. A reasonable range is probably 35-50L depending upon temperature.

Ha, this question gets asks almost weekly here and the answer usually (which I agree with) is Osprey Mutant 38. If you want to spend more and trade comfort for a few grams saved the HMG Prism or Arc FL 40 are worth looking at 

https://www.outdoorgearlab.com/topics/climbing/best-mountaineering-backpack

I think the issue with the Mutant for me, is fit. I'm tall and skinny and Osprey just don't carry comfortably for me. Alpha FL45 is probably my choice for this pack you ask of. 

Anyone use the prism or one of the 3400 HMG packs? I have the discontinued Alpha 45 and it’s a tight fit with anything but a summer kit for Alaska. I’d rather not carry two bags on a winter overnight, but getting a 0 degree (or even -20) bag and tent plus layers in bag that can still climb well seems difficult. 

Mutant 38 has been incredibly versatile, from Liberty Ridge to Exit 38. Would be perfect if Osprey just dropped the coated fabric (that flakes off) and switched to something like Robic.

Absolutely love the prism for overnight alpine missions. (3 nights or less, otherwise I start feeling crunched for space)

Patrick N wrote:

Anyone use the prism or one of the 3400 HMG packs? I have the discontinued Alpha 45 and it’s a tight fit with anything but a summer kit for Alaska. I’d rather not carry two bags on a winter overnight, but getting a 0 degree (or even -20) bag and tent plus layers in bag that can still climb well seems difficult. 

I've got the prism. It's a great pack, used it for everything; rock and ice cragging, Single and multi day ski touring as well as backpacking. I think the only thing I haven't used it for is alpine climbing. which is why I originally bought the pack :)

The Arcteryx Alpha packs (not discontinued, they were refreshed in 2020 with new sizing, see https://www.thealpinestart.com/2020/11/14/comparison-review-arcteryx-alpha-fl-packs/) climb well on route. I've used the older 30L which is good for day objectives, maybe summer overnights with a compact sleeping setup. I feel like the minimal waist strap would be pushing it for carrying too much weight however. I haven't tried the new 40L which is the largest of the bunch.

My mini review of the Arcteryx AR 55- I was hoping this would be the versatile pack to take me up larger cascades objectives that could also slim down. But in the end I found it uncomfortable when carrying overnight gear plus rope plus boots. Mainly the fixed torso length felt too small which affected how it felt loaded (they only seem to make a small and regular size). I loved all of the features other than how it carried, for what that's worth.

Ended up switching it out for BD Speed 50 which has been a more comfortable fit for me.  I miss the side zip access and bottle carry that the AR 55 had though..

The Mountain Equipment Tupilak packs are amazing. I own the 30+ and the 37+. 

 Here is a great article comparing packs in the 35L range. 

Note that the hip belt and pads are large and fixed (non-removable) on the Mutant 38.  This is probably why it carries loads so well, but it also might mean that all your pack weight is sitting directly on top of your harness and gear loops.  That's how that pack was for me, and it absolutely destroyed my body carrying it for one day.

This is going to be super dependent on the way your body is shaped, but it just goes to show how important it is to try something on, full of stuff, with a harness and rack under it if you plan on climbing while wearing it.

I've tried a lot of packs and I keep going back to the Speed series from BD, particularly the 30L and 40L sizes.  They are simple, lightweight, durable, and inexpensive.  They are easily strippable for technical climbing.  I have trouble justifying spending 3X as much on a pack that doesn't seem to do anything better.

Second on the speed series.  

Probably the best value for weight/cost.

Mine has been pretty durable and one of the most comfortable climbing bags I’ve used.  

I use the HMG 3400 icepack, recently used it for a 4day traverse and it carried well 

Zach, I have used the Mountain Hardware Alpine Light 35 bag for all my 1 nighter/Carryover types of alpine adventures. Incredibly lightweight and very comfortable with a removable backplate if you need to drop a few more ounces. 

It also has some spots to put your skis on if you are into that sort of thing.

The bag is white, so it got dirty within 3 uses, but since it's always being used outside, I don't care as much as others have mentioned.

Mitchell Chahalis wrote:

Zach, I have used the Mountain Hardware Alpine Light 35 bag for all my 1 nighter/Carryover types of alpine adventures. Incredibly lightweight and very comfortable with a removable backplate if you need to drop a few more ounces. 

It also has some spots to put your skis on if you are into that sort of thing.

The bag is white, so it got dirty within 3 uses, but since it's always being used outside, I don't care as much as others have menntioned.

How do you feel about the lack of a toplid and only a webbing hip belt on the 35? I’d think that’d make it hard to stuff on the approach and somewhat uncomfortable to carry

I'm trying out a C.A.M.P M30 this year (they also have a 45). It ticks a lot of my features

• Lightweight removable Frame
• Ventilated Back
• Back Access
• Removable Brain
• One Hip pocket and one gear loop on a real hip-belt that is removable
• Fairly lightweight (not the lightest in the class)
• Ski Cary
• Helmet Carry
• Ice Tool carry
• Shoulder load carries go all the way down the front of the pack, this means it compresses from there when emptier 

I am able to fit all my overnight gear in the 30 but YMMV. Haven't gotten it out yet for an alpine climb because summer but it feels great in the gear room at least. 

Danny V wrote:

I'm trying out a C.A.M.P M30 this year (they also have a 45). It ticket a lot of my features

• Lightweight removable Frame
• Ventilated Back
• Back Access
• Removable Brain
• One Hip pocket and one gear loop on a real hip-belt that is removable
• Fairly lightweight (not the lightest in the class)
• Ski Cary
• Helmet Carry
• Ice Tool carry
• Shoulder load carries go all the way down the front of the pack, this means it compresses from there when emptier 

I am able to fit all my overnight gear in the 30 but YMMV. Haven't gotten it out yet for an alpine climb because summer but it feels great in the gear room at least. 

Do you like the back access? Also, how is the tool carrying system for a technical tool like the Nomic or X-Dreams? 

bearded sam wrote:

Do you like the back access? Also, how is the tool carrying system for a technical tool like the Nomic or X-Dreams? 

I like it, but my main use case is skiing. It's nice to be able to see everything at once without having to take stuff out of the pack. Reach a puffy at the bottom without taking heavier gloves/goggles/helmet out of the top first for example.

I've only tried a Petzl Gully (the most technical tool I have and I am aware it's not really) and it fits well. There is a good overview video (youtube has english captions) with some closeups in various configs here: youtube.com/watch?v=9TOWXkP…

Zachary Zwick wrote:

How do you feel about the lack of a toplid and only a webbing hip belt on the 35? I’d think that’d make it hard to stuff on the approach and somewhat uncomfortable to carry

Honestly, I haven't had an issue with it; my osprey 65 has the brain/lid, and unless it's fully packed, sometimes that thing is more of a pain. The roll-top and sinching systems work great for the bag even when it's not quite full of 35L worth of gear. The only drawback is there are no external nalgene slots so I use a non-locker to keep them attached outside and accessible. 

Hmmm, not sure if they changed the model setup but my alpine light has a full-on waist belt with 2 pockets (now only one after a marmot at a hole in the other pocket). The waistbelt is nice, comfortable and removable, it looks like this:

Alpine Light - Backcountry Link

Mitchell Chahalis wrote:

Hmmm, not sure if they changed the model setup but my alpine light has a full-on waist belt with 2 pockets (now only one after a marmot at a hole in the other pocket). The waistbelt is nice, comfortable and removable, it looks like this:

Alpine Light - Backcountry Link

Interesting. Was going off this video (9:07)

https://youtu.be/54w8CorXer4

35L is pretty substantial, would make sense to have a real hip belt in the design

That video is of last year's model. They changed the main pack material, dropped the price, and shuffled a few features around. The current model has a real hip belt on the two larger sizes