Minimal Climbing Commands

At least now we know who is doing all the useless yelling at the crag and distracting and annoying everyone else.

Off rappel is the most needless. Hold on to the rope when your partner rappels. If there is tension in the rope, you can’t rappel even if you tried.  As soon as there is slack, you are good to go. 

^^^ "The test pull is my signal to you that I'm off rappel."

James Jen wrote:
Also, this gem from the article:

shouldn't that read.....

"AVALANCHE!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!"

While I agree with the idea that a lot of verbal commands aren't necessary if you pay attention to what the rope is doing, that's predicated on knowing and trusting your partner enough to have confidence in their decision making to follow logical steps. That's not always the case.

If communication is an issue on longer routes, "On belay" and "Off Belay" are generally the only commands needed.  Those can also be easily replaced with rope tugs.  

When I am cragging I probably use most of the other commands people have listed here.  

Greg D wrote:

At least now we know who is doing all the useless yelling at the crag and distracting and annoying everyone else.

Off rappel is the most needless. Hold on to the rope when your partner rappels. If there is tension in the rope, you can’t rappel even if you tried.  As soon as there is slack, you are good to go. 

Better yet, stack in and then the second can start down as soon as its possible to move.

Nate H wrote:

Better yet, stack in and then the second can start down as soon as its possible to move.

By "stack in" I'm assuming that is the same as pre rigging.  Agreed.  

Christian Hesch wrote:

THAT'S ME!!!    THAT'S TOPHER!!!

I was taught to use my name, at least anytime there's traffic in the area. Much less chance to screw up "THAT'S TOPHER," imo... that said, this is obviously clarified with the next 2 commands.

With my partners, I always ask that all commands are prefaced with "Okay, Amie, [command]" if there are other people at the crag. Obviously, for something like "falling" that's not feasible ;)

I have auditory processing issues, and having context before the command helps me hear the command.

My approach to minimal communication for multipitching includes a discussion with my partner prior to climbing to establish these conventions. This is what I use when I cannot hear or see my partner, in fact I use the same general procedure and agreement even if I can see/hear them. The agreement between the climbers is the leader will only pull up the rope when they are ready to belay and once they have reached the end of the rope they will put it on belay within 20-30 seconds or less.

It goes something like this:

- climber begins leading with "CLIMBING", belayer confirms "CLIMB"
- when the leader arrives at the anchor spot they set up and secure to the anchor system. It is irrelevant if they yell OFF BELAY because their partner can't hear them. So, caring less if the belayer is aware, the leader is now secure and doesn't require a belay any longer.
- meanwhile the belayer noticed the rope isn't moving and suspects the leader might be at the anchor, they continue to belay. Other clues that help reveal where the leader might be located would include comparing the length of the pitch and to how much rope is in the system.
- leader does whatever they need to do prior to pulling the rope up. Drink, eat, piss, jacket on/off, pictures, etc.
- with the belay setup ready to receive the rope, ie. master point ready, belay biner in the master point with belay device or GriGri setup and ready, only then does the leader begin to pull up the rope
- the belayer notices the rope going up in a consistent manner, continues to pay out the rope thru the belay device and clues in that this would likely be the leader pulling the line in; therefore the belayer knows they will be on belay shortly
- the leader reaches the end of the rope as it becomes tight; with in 20-30 seconds the rope is thru the belay device and the leader has the second on belay and ready to climb
- the belayer trusts in the agreement about being put on belay once the rope is pulled up, gives about 20-30 seconds and starts to dismantle the anchor
- the leader has the belay on and should keep gently checking for slack. Knowing that their follower is taking the anchor apart, they don't yard on the rope so hard that the second can't get the anchor setup dismantled.
- once the leader feels the rope is moving they can assume that the follower is climbing and belay as normal
- the follower should proceed once they feel the rope moving up knowing that the agreement between the two parties is the sacred thing

When using this method, be aware of the process so you can appreciate what your leader or follower is doing. Work with them to make the process efficient. Put yourself in their position as you make decisions to anticipate what they might be doing. If things seem out of the norm then your senses should be heightened and additional safety and precaution should be taken.

As a leader you would never want to eff this up. Your partner is trusting you so you never break protocol with the procedure. If something effs up so bad that you can't put them on belay you stop pulling the line up or fix the rope if you have already pulled it up and something crazy happened to the belay setup. It is not often I have to use this technique without verbal commands but I do practice the same procedures whether verbal communication is available or not. It then becomes second nature and intuitive for you and the partners that you climb with.

 Happy to hear your thoughts.

Looks at knot and belay device = grunts of approval...or smack talking your inability to tie in or belay. 

Climbing begins with simple nods of approval or a head shake of I'm scared and not ready just yet...

Up rope command as needed

After that, simple rope pulls is all a good climber needs while climbing. 

I use safe at the top for an off belay command, Or give 3 short and then 3 long tugs.. pull rope till it stops (no command needed) reverse for bringing up the second

Simple enough. 

Topher Dabrowski wrote:

My approach to minimal communication for multipitching includes a discussion with my partner prior to climbing to establish these conventions. This is what I use when I cannot hear or see my partner, in fact I use the same general procedure and agreement even if I can see/hear them. The agreement between the climbers is the leader will only pull up the rope when they are ready to belay and once they have reached the end of the rope they will put it on belay within 20-30 seconds or less.

It goes something like this:

- climber begins leading with "CLIMBING", belayer confirms "CLIMB"
- when the leader arrives at the anchor spot they set up and secure to the anchor system. It is irrelevant if they yell OFF BELAY because their partner can't hear them. So, caring less if the belayer is aware, the leader is now secure and doesn't require a belay any longer.
- meanwhile the belayer noticed the rope isn't moving and suspects the leader might be at the anchor, they continue to belay. Other clues that help reveal where the leader might be located would include comparing the length of the pitch and to how much rope is in the system.
- leader does whatever they need to do prior to pulling the rope up. Drink, eat, piss, jacket on/off, pictures, etc.
- with the belay setup ready to receive the rope, ie. master point ready, belay biner in the master point with belay device or GriGri setup and ready, only then does the leader begin to pull up the rope
- the belayer notices the rope going up in a consistent manner, continues to pay out the rope thru the belay device and clues in that this would likely be the leader pulling the line in; therefore the belayer knows they will be on belay shortly
- the leader reaches the end of the rope as it becomes tight; with in 20-30 seconds the rope is thru the belay device and the leader has the second on belay and ready to climb
- the belayer trusts in the agreement about being put on belay once the rope is pulled up, gives about 20-30 seconds and starts to dismantle the anchor
- the leader has the belay on and should keep gently checking for slack. Knowing that their follower is taking the anchor apart, they don't yard on the rope so hard that the second can't get the anchor setup dismantled.
- once the leader feels the rope is moving they can assume that the follower is climbing and belay as normal
- the follower should proceed once they feel the rope moving up knowing that the agreement between the two parties is the sacred thing

When using this method, be aware of the process so you can appreciate what your leader or follower is doing. Work with them to make the process efficient. Put yourself in their position as you make decisions to anticipate what they might be doing. If things seem out of the norm then your senses should be heightened and additional safety and precaution should be taken.

As a leader you would never want to eff this up. Your partner is trusting you so you never break protocol with the procedure. If something effs up so bad that you can't put them on belay you stop pulling the line up or fix the rope if you have already pulled it up and something crazy happened to the belay setup. It is not often I have to use this technique without verbal commands but I do practice the same procedures whether verbal communication is available or not. It then becomes second nature and intuitive for you and the partners that you climb with.

 Happy to hear your thoughts.

ROPE TUGS DON'T ALWAYS WORK AND CAN LEAD TO BAD MISCOMMUNICATION, STOP USING THEM AND FIND A BETTER WAY.

AND PLEASE STOP YELLING!

Tradiban wrote:

ROPE TUGS DON'T ALWAYS WORK AND CAN LEAD TO BAD MISCOMMUNICATION, STOP USING THEM AND FIND A BETTER WAY.

AND PLEASE STOP YELLING!

Have no idea what you mean, no rope tugs were ever mentioned but maybe since you are yelling you've gone deaf and your eyes are bad? :P

It's usually just a bunch of mumbling and profanity.  The day my Soloist says something back to me, uh, well, uh...

Topher Dabrowski wrote:

Have no idea what you mean, no rope tugs were ever mentioned but maybe since you are yelling you've gone deaf and your eyes are bad? :P

It was meant as humor. Allow me to explain: He asked people to stop yelling, while he was yelling. Get it? "Irony."

Tradiban wrote:

VERBAL COMMUNICATION CAN ALSO INCREASE CONFUSION AND DECREASE SAFETY. 

Yup... this I learned as a youngster. Sometimes it's best to just shut the heck up and wait for your follower to just move...

Matthew Jaggers wrote:

Rope tugs upward from the belayer above makes sense, but not as a leader. Rope tugs from below, or as the lead climber makes no sense. 

Do you think that this sentence actually makes sense to someone that doesn't know what you're trying to say beforehand?

Matthew Jaggers wrote:

Say there's a tricky move and you fall 3 times in a row fairly quickly... I guess you'd be off belay at the crux!

How much time are you imagining people leave between each rope tug?

Topher Dabrowski wrote:

Have no idea what you mean, no rope tugs were ever mentioned but maybe since you are yelling you've gone deaf and your eyes are bad? :P

YOUR POST WAS TOO LONG SO I DIDN'T READ IT AND POSTED WHAT I WANTED TO SAY ANYWAY. THIS IS HOW WE DO IT ON MP. 

BASED ON THE LENGTH OF THE POST I ASSUMED YOU WERE A TUGGER. THE TRADIBAN REGRETS THE ERROR.

AT YOUR REQUEST I READ YOUR POST. SAME THING I DO. 

PLEASE PRACTICE BREVITY NEXT TIME AND STOP YELLING AT TAHQUITZ.

Fail Falling wrote:

Do you think that this sentence actually makes sense to someone that doesn't know what you're trying to say beforehand?

How much time are you imagining people leave between each rope tug?

You have now reached troll status for disagreeing with whatever it was he was saying, good job!

I never yell when on a climb. But I communicate just fine. 20 years and no issues. You figure it out. 

does anyone have any input on the commands: ROPE UP

SLACK

CLIPPING

IN HARD

and my favorite: get my picture or take a pic plz

also kinda surprised that no one is mentioning walkie-talkies and the annoyingly loud beeps and boops they make when the talk button is released