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Do I need matching tools?

Original Post
Zachary Zwick · · Seattle, WA · Joined Jul 2019 · Points: 39

I have a single north machine carbon, and a venom. Haven’t climbed much but I hate using the venom for obvious reasons. I know the general recommendation is getting another matching tool, however the north machine carbon is pretty expensive and I haven’t fully committed to ice climbing. I see a really good deal for a  extremely similar although a little bit heavier and more standard size (not 47/48cm) than the north machine carbon for about 50% the price... options are:

1) pay a whole lot for a second north machine carbon

2) buy one of the other tool for 50% of the price and have mismatched tools

3) buy 2 of the other tool and sell my north machine carbon 

4) buy a north machine not carbon for about 70% the price of the north machine carbon 

5) wait, deal with my current setup until I commit more to ice and then spend way more for a better ice specific ergonomic and all that jazz setup

M R · · Unknown Hometown · Joined May 2013 · Points: 334

#5 or:

Step 1 - Try your partners tools and all other tools you can try out, in addition to your own. 

Step 2 - Experience anxiety because there are too many choices. 

Step 3 - Buy the pair of tools you think are the best.

Step 4 - you really become an ice climber and ice climb a bunch  

Step 5 - Regret for years you didn’t just get a set of nomics

Colton H · · Montana · Joined May 2017 · Points: 45

I’d just climb on them until you can buy another north machine. Also Ice season is a ways off and I think North Machines are only $280 a piece retail? If you save $2 a day for 140 days you’ll be set. Or you could save $0.25 a day for 1,120 days, take your pick I guess.

Daniel Kay · · Boulder, CO · Joined Sep 2014 · Points: 147

No, you don't.

And the advantage to mismatched tools in you will never get your tools confused with someone else's at the crag!

I learned on a mismatched pair that was one BD viper and one BD cobra (older styles), just because someone sold me those axes for $50 total. Fine combo for learning, TRing, and eventually leading up to WI4. They are still my go-to tools for more moderate alpine routes. I only found a real need to upgrade to matching aggressive tools when I started wanting to try and lead WI5. That's a ways off for you as a beginner.

Zachary Zwick · · Seattle, WA · Joined Jul 2019 · Points: 39
Colton H wrote:

I’d just climb on them until you can buy another north machine. Also Ice season is a ways off and I think North Machines are only $280 a piece retail? If you save $2 a day for 140 days you’ll be set. Or you could save $0.25 a day for 1,120 days, take your pick I guess.

Eh, spending $100 >> $220. I’m already WAY over my outdoor gear budget for the year... but if it’s truly worthwhile to have matching tools I’ll hold off and consider it. I like the single north machine for pairing on alpine/mountaineering routes which is why I got it/the setup I have. Not sure it the ideal ice cragging setup 

Zachary Zwick · · Seattle, WA · Joined Jul 2019 · Points: 39
Daniel Kay wrote:

No, you don't.

And the advantage to mismatched tools in you will never get your tools confused with someone else's at the crag!

I learned on a mismatched pair that was one BD viper and one BD cobra (older styles), just because someone sold me those axes for $50 total. Fine combo for learning, TRing, and eventually leading up to WI4. They are still my go-to tools for more moderate alpine routes. I only found a real need to upgrade to matching aggressive tools when I started wanting to try and lead WI5. That's a ways off for you as a beginner.

Definitely a ways away. I can deal with the venom, and have, but it’s so noticeably worse for ice than the north machine carbon. I also have the standard not reverse pick which doesn’t help

curt86iroc · · Lakewood, CO · Joined Dec 2014 · Points: 274
Daniel Kay wrote:

They are still my go-to tools for more moderate alpine routes. 

this is a good point. if you expect to do any kind of alpine climbing or mountaineering routes (that involve some climbing), chances are you will be using mismatched tools (1 "technical" tool and 1 "walking" tool). learning to climb in this setup may suit you well based on your objectives.

Nick Goldsmith · · NEK · Joined Aug 2009 · Points: 470

we climbed for decades with a mish mosh of tools. usually 3 different tools.  However if you decide you want to be an ice climber you might be happiest with a set of Nomics or X Dreams. 

Colton H · · Montana · Joined May 2017 · Points: 45

If anything I’d get an actual ice pick for your venom. At the end of the day though people used to climb with a 70cm alpine axe and a short ice hammer…

Could take that setup for a spin, probably would have much fewer qualms about what tools to get.  Its  all personal preference man. People swear by certain tools, and claim that one tool is better than others, really different tools are just better for different things. Quark, Venom, Cobra, North Machine, those are some examples of alpine tools, but you can still crush hard ice on them, because it’s more about the person, not the tool. BD Fuels are a stiff, burly tool that hold up to rock really well, but also crush ice. Nomics, X-Dreams, Tech Machines, Dark Machines, the list goes on. These tools will do pretty much anything, and so will all the others, but these excel on hard ice and are great for dry tooling. I swapped from old quarks to nomics, and while the swing took me a bit to get used to, at the end of the day I appreciated the nomic’s aggressive shape for mixed work and steep ice. I’ve used all the above tools and one thing is consistent with every single pair, the person matters way more than the tool. Get out, have fun, try hard shit, try a bunch of your buddies tools, and you’ll figure something out. I wouldn’t be in any rush to blow money just to have matching tools, you’re gonna be able to climb some sweet things with the setup you’ve got. Although I would definitely replace the pick on your venom…

Zachary Zwick · · Seattle, WA · Joined Jul 2019 · Points: 39
Colton H wrote:

If anything I’d get an actual ice pick for your venom. At the end of the day though people used to climb with a 70cm alpine axe and a short ice hammer…

The thing holding me back from that was that in the past, I couldn’t find the Venom tech pick for sale and $55 for a pick vs $90 for a tool didn’t make sense, but I see Backcountry/Steep&Cheap have it on a good sale now that makes it worthwhile. 

curt86iroc · · Lakewood, CO · Joined Dec 2014 · Points: 274
Zachary Zwick wrote:

The thing holding me back from that was that in the past, I couldn’t find the Venom tech pick for sale and $55 for a pick vs $90 for a tool didn’t make sense, but I see Backcountry/Steep&Cheap have it on a good sale now that makes it worthwhile. 

definitely makes the tool 1000x better. i use the shortest venom with an alpine tech pick and it climbs WI/AI 3 just fine...

Nick Goldsmith · · NEK · Joined Aug 2009 · Points: 470

can you climb this stuff 

with a Venom? yes it can be done but it will kick your butt and you won't be leading it unless you are a bonified badd assed X 10 ice climber. Just get Nomics or X dreams and be done with it.

Levi Blair · · Bozeman, MT · Joined Sep 2019 · Points: 0

I want to be buried with my Nomics. 

Terry E · · San Francisco, CA · Joined Aug 2011 · Points: 43
Ryan Cole · · Wilmington, DE · Joined Jun 2019 · Points: 30
Terry E wrote:

X Dreams demos (used) on sale for $120:

https://www.camp-usa.com/outdoor/product/discontinued/discontinued-fw2020/cassin-x-dream-ice-tool/

https://www.camp-usa.com/outdoor/products/demo/

Does anybody know if those are compatible with Camp's new picks and accessories?  The demo version of the x-all mountain they're selling is the old version, but I can't tell with the x-dreams.

Robert Gregory · · Berlin, CT · Joined Nov 2013 · Points: 0
Ryan Cole wrote:

Does anybody know if those are compatible with Camp's new picks and accessories?  The demo version of the x-all mountain they're selling is the old version, but I can't tell with the x-dreams.

Yes, I put the new picks on my four-year old X-Dreams with no issues this past winter.

Nick Goldsmith · · NEK · Joined Aug 2009 · Points: 470

same here. 

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Ice Climbing
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