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Solution vs. Solution Comp Heel Fit

Original Post
Galen von Wodtke · · Guilford, VT · Joined Sep 2020 · Points: 0

Thinking about getting a la sportiva sending shoe for steep and bouldery stuff. I demo-ed  solution comp and it fits good and climbs well, I’d just want something a bit stiffer for small edges and pockets.

None of my local climbing stores have the solution to try on, and I’m wondering if anyone can tell me how the heel fits. The lessened sensitivity of the 3D mold doesn’t deter me, I’m just worried it’ll fit different and be baggy.

Lmk what y’all think. I’m also curious to hear how the genius, Testarossa, futura, etc. weigh into this equation. 

David Swaine · · London, GB · Joined Feb 2018 · Points: 31
Galen von Wodtke wrote:

Thinking about getting a la sportiva sending shoe for steep and bouldery stuff. I demo-ed  solution comp and it fits good and climbs well, I’d just want something a bit stiffer for small edges and pockets.

None of my local climbing stores have the solution to try on, and I’m wondering if anyone can tell me how the heel fits. The lessened sensitivity of the 3D mold doesn’t deter me, I’m just worried it’ll fit different and be baggy.

Lmk what y’all think. I’m also curious to hear how the genius, Testarossa, futura, etc. weigh into this equation. 

I wore women's solutions for 12 months off and on but the heel did not fit to painful..I finally  bought the men's  comp version and the heel fits well not the best (for me) but it's good.Both shoes  otherwise perform very similarly ...stiff toe box ..soft midfoot.The testerossa is a different shoe but should fit imo.Its a bit stiffer in the toe box than the solution comp imo but soft in the midfoot.The heel fits my foot the best out of all 3 however I feel more under my big toe in the solutions.Thats the shape of my foot I reckon though.Futuras have a heel that's different again imo but has moulded around my foot perfectly.My favourite shoe however its pretty soft new and gets very soft when well used.great bouldering shoe..My foot is closest related to a Greek foot in shape.

Galen von Wodtke · · Guilford, VT · Joined Sep 2020 · Points: 0

Thanks for your thoughts David! It seems like I really can’t go wrong, but might get a more snug fit in the comp than the original solution. The lessened stiffness in the comp, for the occasional smear, without compromising edging performance is also attractive. Interesting that you’ve found the futures and teatarossas to fit best of them all, though. 

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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