Issues Analyzing Boulder Problems

Hey Ladies and Gents,

I’ve seen an issue that’s been reoccurring with my climbing. My apologizes if this is a normal occurrence.

But I’m pretty terrible at figuring out beta. My body’s definitely not the limiting factor with my climbing. I can climb boulders much than regular if I’ve seen someone else do the beta first.

Without seeing someone I’m around a v5 climber. I can’t seem to figure out the betas for harder climbs. If I see someone else anywhere near my size knock out a v6 or sometimes V7 (depending on the style). I can knock it out easy. I don’t think harder grades are very far away. I’m just terrible at reading more advanced routes.

Do you have any advice or cues to help, besides just climbing more or giving it time?

Thank you!

Try harder, climb less in the gym.

beta videos help a lot :) 

When it's just you and the problem you are limited by your perception and skill. With others around to problem solve for you, all you have to do is imitate them, as long as you have the strength. You won't get much better at "analyzing boulders" unless you spend more time analyzing boulders. If you just want to tick hard problems, climb in a group with better climbers. If you want to learn to climb, spend more time working problems yourself. There is no magic shortcut - though asking for advice is a step in the right direction. The advice from Todd above is good - at harder grades success may depend on using a worse foot at a better location that helps you "flow" through a few moves  - the better foot your shorter/taller partner is using may not ever work for you. So don't commit too soon to using certain feet over and over. 

Also, most of the hardest problems I sent came almost immediately after someone else showed me some little trick I hadn't considered. The Hulk is a V6 in Bishop I was walking away from after several tries at the end of the day (I had never sent a 6 at that time) when some bro was like "come back, try the toe hook once you get stretched out." I did, it worked first try, and my first 6 went down. But it was much less rewarding than if I'd figured the toehook out myself. Felt a bit like a trained monkey. Do you want the grade or the skill, or both? Choice is yours, there are many reasons to climb.

Nick Norton wrote:

Hey Ladies and Gents,

I’ve seen an issue that’s been reoccurring with my climbing. My apologizes if this is a normal occurrence.

But I’m pretty terrible at figuring out beta. My body’s definitely not the limiting factor with my climbing. I can climb boulders much than regular if I’ve seen someone else do the beta first.

Without seeing someone I’m around a v5 climber. I can’t seem to figure out the betas for harder climbs. If I see someone else anywhere near my size knock out a v6 or sometimes V7 (depending on the style). I can knock it out easy. I don’t think harder grades are very far away. I’m just terrible at reading more advanced routes.

Do you have any advice or cues to help, besides just climbing more or giving it time?

Thank you!

Beta is subjective. Try what others do but don't be afraid to try anything you can think of. Underclinging middle finger jams are the shit.

Thank you so much for the tips. I’d much rather progress than stroke my ego.