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Harrison Lussier
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May 7, 2021
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Unknown Hometown
· Joined Aug 2020
· Points: 0
Looking to purchase around 12 brand new quickdraws. Most likely 6 12cm and 6 16cm but my question is, should I really be worried about which quickdraws I buy or simply look for ones that are on sale? Is it personal preference or should I be looking for hybrids, wire gates, differences in weight or even dogbone width?
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Rollin
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May 7, 2021
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SLC, UT
· Joined Jul 2015
· Points: 974
It's all your personal preference. I like solid gates with a fat dogbone for project draws, but lightweight dyneema and wiregates if I'm going to be hiking a while and want less weight. Play around with the biners at the store, find ones you like that feel comfortable clipping, and bonus if they're on sale. Personally I'd stay away from really floppy draws, but that's just my preference. Edit: the most important thing is to match the color with your harness actually
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Highlander
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May 8, 2021
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Ouray, CO
· Joined Apr 2008
· Points: 256
Go for a quality quickdraw they will last a long time and your partners will appreciate you having good gear. In my opinion the best draw is the Petzl Spirit for its weight/clip ability/and quality dog bone. The black diamond livewire was a great draw, a little heavier than the spirit and not as good of a dog bone, but great for clipping, but it looks like it has been discontinued.
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Lena chita
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May 10, 2021
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OH
· Joined Mar 2011
· Points: 1,667
It is personal preference. But I do dislike the partners whose personal preference is to have such crappy draws that we end up using mine all the time. (That is also personal preference, lol!) my preferences:
- keylock solid gate for the bolt side. -wide dog-bones, not skinny dyneema, and in longer lengths. -wire gate on the rope side (though this preference is less strong than the first two. All my draws have wire gates on the rope side, but there are many nice solid gate biners that I don’t mind clipping.)
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Tony Baum
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May 10, 2021
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Portland, OR
· Joined Feb 2019
· Points: 5
Somewhere between personal preference and it really doesn't matter (especially for single-pitch sport climbing). They're quickdraws, they all work exactly the same, the safety rating differences are tiny, the differences in weight is negligible for most of us not climbing 5.14, and they're all super durable unless you climb 300 days a year. If you find some from a reputable company on sale, buy them. Pretty colors are a bonus. Extra long dogbones are nice but not necessary, definitely not 6 of them. Alpine draws are more versatile and about the same $$ to build yourself, I usually pack 12 regular draws and 4 alpine draws.
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Matt Himmelstein
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May 10, 2021
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Orange, CA
· Joined Jun 2014
· Points: 194
I buy inexpensive draws, not cheap ones. There is a difference.
You can save money by looking for sales. Mix and match biners can save money, with one type for the hanger and another for the rope. My favorite set is from Camp with a nano for the hanger and a much larger wire gate for the rope. I don't have any keylock biners or other no snag wires; I see the theoretical benefit, but haven't really felt the need out in the wild.
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dino74
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May 11, 2021
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Oceanside, CA
· Joined Sep 2016
· Points: 70
I like my WC Helium draws. I also like my friend's Petzl spirits. Some of the quick draw reasoning I've seen. Notchless on the bolt side: A Notched carabiner can sometime be a pain to clean especially on overhangs. Fat dog bone: In case you need to grab it. The worry with the skinny dyneema is that your hand will slide down and get impaled on the gate. There's no shame in grabbing the draw .... just don't say you cleaned the climb.
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Pino Pepino
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May 12, 2021
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Unknown Hometown
· Joined Dec 2018
· Points: 0
Solid Gate, big tape. I wouldn't buy any longer ones, just extend the 12cm with another draw where needed.
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