dynamic belay while on multipitch?

So..... How does one give a dynamic belay on a multi pitch route if the belayer is anchored?

Or is the answer..... you just dont.... 

Because obviously the belayer cant move around all that much sooo?

by using a rope.

PWZ wrote:

by using a rope.

This was my second guess. So bigger fall more slack more dynamic.  Belayer doesn't move. 

makes sense i guess. 

Bobby S wrote:

So..... How does one give a dynamic belay on a multi pitch route if the belayer is anchored?

Compensate with gloves and a non-bake-assisted device. :)

Bobby S wrote:

This was my second guess. So bigger fall more slack more dynamic.  Belayer doesn't move. 

makes sense i guess. 

Don't give extra slack...the angle of most multi pitch routed is less than vertical, which could result in hitting a ledge, etc.

You can anchor in with the rope coming from your harness, also, you will not be tethered so tight that you can't give a bit of a dynamic belay.

A little more seriously: I don’t think it takes much belayer movement to reduce peak loads as much as possible. Ten inches? Perhaps the only limiting issue is a roof right over the belayer’s head?

Bill Lawry wrote:

A little more seriously: I don’t think it takes much belayer movement to reduce peak loads as much as possible. Ten inches? Perhaps the only limiting issue is a roof right over the belayer’s head?

Not sure how true that is. I just took a refresher lead class and they are trying to get us to damn near jump up the wall with both feet to soften a catch

Bobby S wrote:

Not sure how true that is. I just took a refresher lead class and they are trying to get us to damn near jump up the wall with both feet to soften a catch

Over achievers?

Edit:  ok - 20 inches

Most punters can barely catch, let alone give a "dynamic belay".  They should focus on catching.

Bobby S wrote:

Not sure how true that is. I just took a refresher lead class and they are trying to get us to damn near jump up the wall with both feet to soften a catch

Was the lead course gym/sport focused or trad focused? Because, as was stated above, easy/moderate trad tends to be lower angle (meaning more ledges and features to hit) while sport is more overhanging (even at lower grades) and so trad belaying and sport belaying are not the same thing. Like all things, it's nuanced and so you need to take  the context of the situation into account. IE: you don't need to give the same  level of "softness" to your catch when belaying easy/moderate trad (lower angle routes) as you do or sport climbing (steeper routes). Think about what they said in the class as the purpose of the soft catch. I'm willing to bet they weren't talking about the force as it applies to your protection pieces, they were most likely talking about not slamming your belayer into the wall via a hardcatch. Now instead of trying to apply one method to every situation, look at your trad route. If your climber falls on that lower angle terrain, are they going to fly out from the wall or are they going to fall while in contact with the wall? In most cases they're  going to be falling while in contact with the wall  and so your hard catch  is not going to slam them into the wall because they're already touching/sliding past the wall.