How to get over fear of insecure footing on problems?

I have a fear of sending problems that have minimal footing or edges that I can secure my foot on. How can I get over this fear? I have an Organic big pad and another regular pad, as well as a spotter, but I'm still scared.

I used to think I have a fear of heights, so I avoided any problem that was higher than 10 feet. But then, I did a 15 feet boulder (Mel's Diner at Jtree) and felt pretty confident because there was plenty of secure footholds, though still had some fear of the height.

Then I went over to the Womb (still in Jtree) which is 13 feet and I couldn't get myself to go up. I saw my friend flash it, but my subjective feeling of insecure footing on the problem is preventing me to send it.

Do any boulders have good feet? I feel like anything above v1, you’re getting a chip at best.  Maybe I’m not understanding what you mean. Do you mean like slab smearing? 

My recommendation is fall. A lot. Get used to it. But seriously this called “exposure therapy” it’s a common way of dealing with fear. You start with doing falls that feel in your control. Again and again. Then maybe do something to take away some control- something like where a friend says fall and you have to fall. Do this until you feel comfortable with it. Then slowly move to worse settings until you’re taking unexpected falls. 

I found an easy rouste I could flash that had some height to it and bailed at a higher points over and over. I climb alone mostly so I had to break that fear quick. Now I get a little jazzed at around 40' instead of 15'.

Wish there were an easy answer to this other than you kind of just have to keep doing it and build up confidence. My usual dance is to go up, then if I'm freaked out I just bail, and think through why I bailed. If I know I can do the move and I'm just scared, I'll focus on pushing through. Often the crux then is just this mental aspect.

I would find some easy slab problems with nice flat landings and practice no hands climbing. This will really teach you to trust your feet. 

https://www.epictv.com/media/podcast/no-hands-climbing-with-the-scarpa-chimera-%7C-johnny-dawes-boot-camp/608258

(Could be a troll? Anyway...) Bouldering is supposed to be hard for you. If it's not, you're just scrambling around on easy terrain. Sounds like you enjoy climbing rock without the accompanying sensation of feeling like you could fall. Nothing wrong with that. But either embrace the feeling of insecurity, or accept that you probably won't really get into bouldering. 

I never really liked falling on a rope. I overcame that fear enough to send some of the 11d/12a routes my partners and I were working (peer pressure, ha ha) and took plenty of lead falls on some of them. But I knew taking whips wasn't my bliss and never would be. So I eventually turned away from seeking out hard sport routes to fall on until that one time I sent (on to the next!), and I realized I much more enjoyed trad and bouldering, or sport routes in my comfort zone. Find out the kind of climbing you do like, and do it. 

nowhere wrote:

I would find some easy slab problems with nice flat landings and practice no hands climbing. This will really teach you to trust your feet. 

https://www.epictv.com/media/podcast/no-hands-climbing-with-the-scarpa-chimera-%7C-johnny-dawes-boot-camp/608258

I will echo the slab climbing "No Hands" 

Do top rope climbs while holding racquetballs, this allows the use of your hands to maintain balance, but not able to execute a regular grip. I do this with students who need to work on footwork.

 Also cilmb blindfolded. I do this with climbers who have some fear and uncertainty. This works to over ride fear and focus on instinct. Have them climb, then climb blindfolded and then have them climb without the blindfold, but me using a laser pointer and pointing out the same sequence they climbed blindfolded. It's interesting to point to some tiny crimp when there is a jug right next to it. They will question it and I tell them you used it and had no problem when you were blindfolded, why cant you use it, now that you can see?  This is because when they are blindfolded, they will instinctively utilize what they can feel as they know its there and will make the best of it. also they have no awareness of the exposure or risk as their instincts have kicked in and minimized the fear and uncertainty. 

tobias bundle wrote:

Do any boulders have good feet? I feel like anything above v1, you’re getting a chip at best.  Maybe I’m not understanding what you mean. Do you mean like slab smearing? 

My recommendation is fall. A lot. Get used to it. But seriously this called “exposure therapy” it’s a common way of dealing with fear. You start with doing falls that feel in your control. Again and again. Then maybe do something to take away some control- something like where a friend says fall and you have to fall. Do this until you feel comfortable with it. Then slowly move to worse settings until you’re taking unexpected falls. 

The steeper the boulder the better the feet, even on hard boulders. I’ve seen and done a lot boulders that are well above V1 that have huge heel hooks, toe hooks, or just big feet. They do, however, often lack easy or big hand holds.

I like another user recommendation of doing boulders that made you scared or mentally challenged you several times until you get (more) comfortable with it. 

there's a really big difference between using bad feet on something slabby, versus something vertical, versus something overhanging.  as you transition through these, you also have to transition from a more passive pushing on your feet to a more active pulling with your feet.  for me, the toughest are not-positive feet on a slightly overhanging wall. that takes more of a bold, confident approach which can be hard to muster. sometimes you have to look for a foothold that might be more positive (but in a less helpful location), or the opposite - something that might not be as good but is in a better location. practice and good shoes help.

1. Get Stronger!  Feet don't matter as much...unless it's slab :)

2. Perhaps experiment with different shoe types ($ option).  I've definitely found that certain shoe brands' rubber sticks better to certain types of rock.

*Example: I remember climbing in the gunks many years ago during the bouldering explosion  (90s) and having difficulty with small feet.  Changed over from La Sportiva (slippery on the conglomerate rock) to 5.10 (sticky) and everything became much easier.  But at other areas (NH) the La sportiva's were the better choice.  

TR rehearsal is one easy way to remove the fear. Get a harness, TR Soloing device of your choice, and climb the problems a few times to gain the confidence that you're lacking.