"Fixed point" lead belay using ATC in guide mode
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Came across this on IG: https://www.instagram.com/p/CFY3cbwDLBb/?igshid=jp2dmthqgs4h (Unless my eyes deceive me)... Has anyone ever heard of a "fixed point" lead belay using an ATC in guide mode? It's primarily done with a munter, or a tube device (with an initial redirected rake strand). (Alpine Savvy had a great write-up along with other European sources on "fixed point" lead belays.) |
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I guess it could work in theory, but it won't be a soft catch! Also, it looks like it would be difficult to pay out rope. |
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I wouldn't base anything on just a single Instagram photo, especially when you don't know the context. That photo is not a set up for lead belay, they were belaying the follower on a traverse. Notice how the draw is "backclipped"? Checking the comments sometimes help to clear any confusion. |
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wow. that's a new one.... |
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aikibujin wrote: Thanks for your input. I see the image much differently now, esp with the image's comment discussion giving more context. |
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In guide mode its really hard to feed out slack. I would never belay a leader that way. I do see more people belaying leaders off the anchor (most often a bolted anchor) though. For that I would recommend a gri gri. |
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Looks like this was set up so his belayer could take both hands off rope for a cool photo opp. Staged safely then switched to normal after camera put away. |