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"Fixed point" lead belay using ATC in guide mode

Original Post
Kevin Maliczak · · Living in Taiwan. From Sout… · Joined Apr 2018 · Points: 345

Came across this on IG:

https://www.instagram.com/p/CFY3cbwDLBb/?igshid=jp2dmthqgs4h

(Unless my eyes deceive me)... Has anyone ever heard of a "fixed point" lead belay using an ATC in guide mode?

It's primarily done with a munter, or a tube device (with an initial redirected rake strand). (Alpine Savvy had a great write-up along with other European sources on "fixed point" lead belays.)

Demetri V · · Farmington, CT · Joined Jul 2019 · Points: 132

I guess it could work in theory, but it won't be a soft catch! Also, it looks like it would be difficult to pay out rope.

aikibujin · · Castle Rock, CO · Joined Oct 2014 · Points: 300

I wouldn't base anything on just a single Instagram photo, especially when you don't know the context. That photo is not a set up for lead belay, they were belaying the follower on a traverse. Notice how the draw is "backclipped"? Checking the comments sometimes help to clear any confusion.

curt86iroc · · Lakewood, CO · Joined Dec 2014 · Points: 274

wow. that's a new one....

Kevin Maliczak · · Living in Taiwan. From Sout… · Joined Apr 2018 · Points: 345
aikibujin wrote:

I wouldn't base anything on just a single Instagram photo, especially when you don't know the context. That photo is not a set up for lead belay, they were belaying the follower on a traverse. Notice how the draw is "backclipped"? Checking the comments sometimes help to clear any confusion.

Thanks for your input. I see the image much differently now, esp with the image's comment discussion giving more context. 

Mydans · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2014 · Points: 70

In guide mode its really hard to feed out slack. I would never belay a leader that way.  I do see more people belaying leaders off the anchor (most often a bolted anchor) though. For that I would recommend a gri gri.  

Pete S · · Spokane, WA · Joined Jul 2020 · Points: 223

Looks like this was set up so his belayer could take both hands off rope for a cool photo opp.  Staged safely then switched to normal after camera put away.  

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Trad Climbing
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