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Top Rope Accessible Off Width in Red Rocks?

Original Post
Rio H · · Seattle, WA · Joined Sep 2019 · Points: 505

Hi I will be climbing in red rocks for some time and wanted to get some intro and practice into off width climbing. Are there any recommended routes that we can set top ropes for in the area? What about for chimneys as well? Thanks! 

Alex Fletcher · · Las Vegas · Joined May 2016 · Points: 252

Cadillac  Chrysler Crack 5.9 in Sanstone Quarry is top rope accessible. Top access is a tad tricky. And finding the route can also potentially be tricky. But the climb is excellent. 

However, on the Yin and Yang Crag behind Kraft Mountain, there is easy top access to multiple routes. All of them are extremely short by normal pitch standards, but there is a chimney and two offwidths. Plus three other splitter cracks. 5.7 to 511d

Other than that, technically there are bolts on top of Plumbers Crack V1 or V2 depending on the side chosen. That one is a cool 40 foot tall boulder problem chimney in front of Kraft Mountain. 

I’m sure there’s many more out there. But those were just off the top of my head. 

FrankPS · · Atascadero, CA · Joined Nov 2009 · Points: 276
Alex Fletcher wrote:

Cadillac Crack 5.9 in Sanstone Quarry is top rope accessible. Top access is a tad tricky. And finding the route can also potentially be tricky. But the climb is excellent. 

I think you mean Chrysler Crack, You're getting your cars mixed up.

James Frost · · Prescott, AZ · Joined Jun 2019 · Points: 684
Alex Fletcher wrote:

Other than that, technically there are bolts on top of Plumbers Crack V1 or V2 depending on the side chosen. That one is a cool 40 foot tall boulder problem chimney in front of Kraft Mountain. 

Plumber's Crack is not 40 feet tall on either side

phylp phylp · · Upland · Joined May 2015 · Points: 1,137

I'd be interested in hearing if other people agree with me in this, but my experience of most of the offwidth and chimneys I've done in Red Rock (up through the 5.9 grade, which seems to be what you're asking about based on your trad ticks), is that they require no chimney or offwidth technique. This is because the sandstone in these areas is often highly featured with the black patina that makes for wonderful face climbing. For just one example, look at the topo in Handren II for Group Therapy.  For protection, it's great to have a number 6, but I did not use one offwidth move on the whole route.  Likewise, innumerable routes I've done in RR say "climb the chimney", but these are also often quite featured and you stem and face climb up the whole thing.  I'm sure there are exceptions and I hope you can find them for your practice.  It's been a while but I seem to recall a true offwidth section on The Fox. This can be TRed with 2 ropes. 

These types of Red Rock chimney and offwidth are quite distinct from the same features on granite, which more typically require offwidth and chimney technique.  At any rate, enjoy your trip!

Desert Rock Sports · · Las Vegas, NV · Joined Aug 2019 · Points: 2

Chrysler Crack will be the best to learn technique on, especially foot stacking. I have never tried scrambling up top though. If you do so you will need a long cordellette or webbing and edge padding material to get your anchor situated over the edge.

There is a big difference between routes with wide cracks and with offwidth.

phylp phylp · · Upland · Joined May 2015 · Points: 1,137
Desert Rock Sports wrote:

There is a big difference between routes with wide cracks and with offwidth.

I completely agree but the language used throughout the Handren guidebook does not make this distinction on many of the routes I have done.  It will state "climb the offwidth" or "climb the chimney" and this is not wrong language.  But if you are specifically going on those routes to practice a technique you might be surprised when you don't need it.  In my case, I'm thrilled when I don't have to use offwidth technique!

Austin R · · Las Vegas, NV · Joined Aug 2018 · Points: 2
phylp phylp wrote:

I'd be interested in hearing if other people agree with me in this, but my experience of most of the offwidth and chimneys I've done in Red Rock (up through the 5.9 grade, which seems to be what you're asking about based on your trad ticks), is that they require no chimney or offwidth technique. This is because the sandstone in these areas is often highly featured with the black patina that makes for wonderful face climbing. For just one example, look at the topo in Handren II for Group Therapy.  For protection, it's great to have a number 6, but I did not use one offwidth move on the whole route.  Likewise, innumerable routes I've done in RR say "climb the chimney", but these are also often quite featured and you stem and face climb up the whole thing.  I'm sure there are exceptions and I hope you can find them for your practice.  It's been a while but I seem to recall a true offwidth section on The Fox. This can be TRed with 2 ropes. 

These types of Red Rock chimney and offwidth are quite distinct from the same features on granite, which more typically require offwidth and chimney technique.  At any rate, enjoy your trip!

The Fox can be tr'ed with 1 rope

Rio H · · Seattle, WA · Joined Sep 2019 · Points: 505

Thanks everyone for the recommendations! Will look at going to Yin and Yang wall as there seems to be other cracks we can practice on. 

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Nevada
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