Communicating climbing commands

Peter Thomas wrote:

On the other hand "in direct" is something I don't say, and urge others not to. what does that mean, and what is the purpose of saying it? does it mean that you're off belay in which case why wouldn't you just say that? Or clipped in but not off belay? in which case why say anything at all?  I like to say "take" or "slack" or "off belay" all of which are clear in what they mean and as a command. 

If you climbed harder routes you'd understand the value of "in direct"

june m wrote:

Safe is not a climbing command

It is commonly used in other countries

june m wrote:

Safe is not a climbing command

It is if I use it as one and my partner understands it. I feel like it’s too close to “take” but it works for some. 

If communication is clear/easy and I’m in doubt/want to confirm they want to be taken off belay I may say ‘taking you off belay -insert name-‘ and wait for acknowledgement. Then say ‘belay off’ when the action is complete. That is an exception however, and mostly I just stick to the ‘belay off’ 

june m wrote:

Safe is not a climbing command

not really plugged into other cultures are you?

june m wrote:

Safe is not a climbing command

RIGHT.  It's commentary and we don't need it.

Mark E Dixon wrote:

It is commonly used in other countries

I've only climbed in Canada Italy France Germany and Chile. And in those countries it seems like we've stuck with on belay and off belay when you add a foreign language to the equation it makes it even more confusing and important to keep it simple. but that's just my opinion. 

I believe 'safe' is really common, perhaps the standard, in the UK.

Probably Australia too.

Mark E Dixon wrote:

I believe 'safe' is really common, perhaps the standard, in the UK.

Probably Australia too.

Most of my UK partners use it. 

june m wrote:

Safe is not a climbing command

+1

number of syllables is sometimes all one hears when windy and out of sight of your partner.

on belay or off belay -3

up rope- two

slack - one

rock, Rock, ROCK, ROCK! -4

adding things like "take" or "safe" muddies things up if you can'T see your partner.

Fail Falling wrote:

not really plugged into other cultures are you?

We try not to culturally appropriate.

"If you climbed harder routes you'd understand the value of "in direct"

I try not to use that term, it is something sport climbers say.

Dave Olsen wrote:

We try not to culturally appropriate.

june m wrote:

Safe is not a climbing command

Safe is a feeling.  Feelings matter.

I'll bet you anything that guy tries to kiss girls at the belay without communicating, or as he calls it, shit communicating. 

One thing to think about is saying your partners name. At busy crags if the climber next to you sounds like your climber some miscommunication can happen. 

Fail Falling wrote:

Most of my UK partners use it. 

Yep, I've climbed a bit in Australia and they also use "safe". One might argue it's actually safer (har har) than "off belay / on belay". In a busy area with multiple parties, if your name is John and you hear, "John! *mumble mumble* be-lay!" You may think it's your leader calling "off belay" and you take him off, but in fact it could be another leader calling "on belay" to his second also named John.

The more entertaining solution is to give each other code names and talk in your own code. "Purple Eagle, make ramen!" "Golden Bear! Ramen is hot!" Guaranteed no one else will confuse your command with their own.