Best gri gri-like device

With all of the abd devices on the market these days, I'm curious if the gri gri is really the best of them or if it's just the most well known and reputable because it is the oldest. Thoughts? 

yes.

PWZwrote:

yes.

Yes the gri gri is the best or yes its the most reputable because it's the original? 

chris pwrote:

Yes the gri gri is the best or yes its the most reputable because it's the original? 

It's the most well known.

chris pwrote:

With all of the abd devices on the market these days, I'm curious if the gri gri is really the best of them or if it's just the most well known and reputable because it is the oldest. Thoughts? 

How do you define "best"? What do you want the device to do? Rappel much, for example?

The one thing a grigri is perceived to do, is catch a fall totally hands free (that dead belayer scenario). It does lock tighter/faster/harder than other devices, but the slippage other devices offer may be desirable too. Pick and choose. 

Just do your research, try stuff out, and decide for yourself. There are heaps of choices out there now. 

Personally, I do think it is the best, but it is also quite spendy compared to some of the other options. Grigri + is probably a gimmick, but the standard, no frills grigri is still top dawg.

Old lady Hwrote:

How do you define "best"? What do you want the device to do? 

Good point. Mostly I want it to help my wife be less nervous about belaying me on lead. Unfortunately I don't think there is anywhere near me I could go to test out a bunch of the alternatives to see which does that best. The small handful of places that carry climbing gear tend to have a pretty limited selection in store. 

chris pwrote:

 Mostly I want it to help my wife be less nervous about belaying me on lead.

If I was worried about my belayer's skill or nervousness, I'd much prefer they used a Giga Jul over a GriGri. For an experienced belayer, the GriGri provides ease of playing out rope, but for a new belayer, the Giga Jul is simpler, more intuitive, and nearly impossible to override or drop someone - not to mention half the price. My friend's wife never felt comfortable with a GriGri but feels good lead belaying with a Giga Jul.

Comparing a Gigajul to a GriGri seems like an apples to oranges comparison, but I think the new generation of passive, assisted braking devices, like the Juls, will slowly replace GriGris in many scenarios.

chris pwrote:

Good point. Mostly I want it to help my wife be less nervous about belaying me on lead. Unfortunately I don't think there is anywhere near me I could go to test out a bunch of the alternatives to see which does that best. The small handful of places that carry climbing gear tend to have a pretty limited selection in store. 

what does she currently use? There's a learning curve with a Grigri and any other device but I think they're terrific for providing nearly guaranteed catches. Also good for lowering, which isn't so easy with some of the other devices. 

In my opinion Trango Vergo is the easiest and the most ergonomic cam abd to lead belay with.

GriGris are the best, but I prefer the Mega/GigaJul.

chris pwrote:

Good point. Mostly I want it to help my wife be less nervous about belaying me on lead. Unfortunately I don't think there is anywhere near me I could go to test out a bunch of the alternatives to see which does that best. The small handful of places that carry climbing gear tend to have a pretty limited selection in store. 

After limited use my wife never liked the gri gri for lead belay because her hands were too small to easily defeat the locking mechanism to pay out rope. Although for me it’s my favorite. Megajul was her choice for a couple years until she tried the mammut smart 2.0. I would have to say ability to pay out rope and smooth lowers are better now. There are plenty of other devices that we haven’t used so the advice to try as many as possible should not be ignored. It really comes down to personal preference. Try to find people using other devices at your local crag and ask to try them out. 

Greg Rwrote:

After limited use my wife never liked the gri gri for lead belay because her hands were too small to easily defeat the locking mechanism to pay out rope. Although for me it’s my favorite. Megajul was her choice for a couple years until she tried the mammut smart 2.0. I would have to say ability to pay out rope and smooth lowers are better now. There are plenty of other devices that we haven’t used so the advice to try as many as possible should not be ignored. It really comes down to personal preference. Try to find people using other devices at your local crag and ask to try them out. 

How small are her hands? I've watched numerous children with tiny hands (comp team climbers) lead belay with GriGris. 

I've used an ATC, Pilot, Mega Jul, Vergo, Smart Alpine, Revo, Eddy, Lifeguard, and all four iterations of the GriGri. My favorite device is the most recent GriGri, followed by the GriGri 2. There is a really good reason that if you go to any hard sport crag you see a zillion of them. They pay out slack really well once you get the hang of it, and they lock hard during a fall. While it might not be the best in every scenario, it's so good in so many different situations that I think it's the best overall. I think the GriGri+ is a solution in search of a problem, but the other three options are great. Can't go wrong with one!

I’m a longtime Vergo user and I’m very happy with it. I think it’s better at feeding and lowering than the grigri2. The newest GriGri, not the plus, is equally good though. I have the atc pilot as well and it handles well but you have to give up the positive lock.

Andrew Ricewrote:

How small are her hands? 

Trump sized

When it comes to a belay device I tend to stay with my ATC.   Some people prefer I use my gri-gri, while others prefer the ATC.  Climbers choice.  I think my gri-gri is the best piece of all around gear I carry.  If I was looking for something different or better I think it would depend on what other needs I had for it.   For cleaning aid pitches, for me, my gri-gri is a must.  For something like bolt replacement where I am in one place for awhile I prefer a Petzl Rig.  It is like a big brother to the gri-gri with a long handle and a locking position.  In the locked position it is locked and I don't have to worry about catching the handle on something and scaring myself.  It is heavy and bulky, but for me it serves a purpose.  It is great that there is so much cool stuff to play with.

Greg Rwrote:

Trump sized

I've got the perfect belay device for you, then.

i have a birdie, giga jul, grigri, and smart alpine between me and my gf.

the grigri is the best for ease of use and subjective "feel" by a pretty good margin. i think their time in the market has refined it to really nail the user experience.

i use the giga jul for multipitch because it's really good and super versatile.

chris p, what is your wife using now? I'm an ATC user, and am one who is not a big fan of the grigri, although I own one and use them now and then. I have an Alpine Up, which allows two ropes, and recently got a Lifeguard. The Lifeguard uses the same hand positions as an ATC, which is my default setting (so to speak) and a plus, IMO. I can go back and forth between the two without a change in technique. The Lifeguard is a lower with a handle device. But, it is not the hard lock of a grigri. That isn't necessarily a minus, just something to understand. I tested the Lifeguard with the range of ropes I have, and couldn't get it to do anything unacceptable, even with creating "slow" falls.

Do you have a gym? Ask the people leading there what they're using.

Finally, is weight an issue? Maybe consider an ohm, if you're a big guy and that's really what the worry is. 

Whatever you choose, get to the gym and practice  See if you can get a second belayer, and have a top rope backup belay. Then she can catch you a bunch, get her feet off the ground, and get used to the process. If she's still worried, you need to be talking it out. Maybe climb with others, if it's an issue.

Best, Helen

Greg Rwrote:

After limited use my wife never liked the gri gri for lead belay because her hands were too small to easily defeat the locking mechanism to pay out rope. Although for me it’s my favorite. Megajul was her choice for a couple years until she tried the mammut smart 2.0. I would have to say ability to pay out rope and smooth lowers are better now. There are plenty of other devices that we haven’t used so the advice to try as many as possible should not be ignored. It really comes down to personal preference. Try to find people using other devices at your local crag and ask to try them out. 

If you hold the Gri-Gri correctly hand-sized should have no relationship to the ability to pay out slack. Fast forward to about the 50-second mark in the video. Also, notice that the hand-size dependent method of paying out slack (which is common and works well enough, I did it that way for years) is presented in the images of 'incorrect technique'. I did this 'wrong' for at least a decade, the recommended method is easier, smoother, safer, and works with the tiniest of hands.