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where to climb when it's too hot

Original Post
Brad Larson · · portland · Joined Apr 2019 · Points: 0

Taking a short climbing trip next week. Plan was Leavenworth but some forecasts are mid 90's. My partner and I want good camping near water and moderate climbing (5.9 and under) within 5-6 hrs of Portland. Any suggestions? Should we just continue to Leavenworth, climb at dawn and sit in Icicle Creek in the afternoon?
Thanks.

Daniel Bolliger · · Seattle, WA · Joined Mar 2016 · Points: 10

I like an afternoon nap/swim, and then you can head back out at 6-7pm for a couple more hours of climbing.

Hangdog Hank · · Leavenworth, WA · Joined Mar 2017 · Points: 2,051

I would go to Index if your looking to climb trad, there’s definitely enough 5.9 and under to keep you occupied for a short trip and the camping is right next to the Skykomish. 

Rick Atherton · · Redmond, OR · Joined Feb 2017 · Points: 0

There's plenty of moderate trad routes on Washington Pass. It's been in the 50s on the routes up there, which allows for some lazy alpine starts!

Dan Bookless · · Bend, OR · Joined Oct 2015 · Points: 2,156

second washington pass, the temps would be good and moderate trad climbs are available

Stu Hopkins · · Logan, UT · Joined Dec 2017 · Points: 76

In the shade

Mack Johnson · · Silverdale, WA · Joined Sep 2016 · Points: 1,061

Try Mt. Erie in Anacortes.  Developed camping at Deception Pass State Park, basic camping at Lake Erie store right near some of the approach trails.
Erie isn't a great quality area but there are a number of good moderates.  The views and surroundings are world class.  It's quite cool being near the ocean, and several cliffs have shade.
Take care finding the crags, easy to get mixed up since some are approached from above and others are buried in the trees.  New MiIllennium Wall, Sunset Slabs are good starters. 

Deven Lewis · · Idaho falls · Joined Oct 2016 · Points: 295

You can still climb in the shade in Leavenworth pearly gates is in the shade for most of the morning. And there are some shade spots in clem holler and careno crag. And you can go into town and jump in the river.
But Washington pass is very nice as well. hair pin crag is very well shaded, buy burdos guide book for it.

Poc · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2015 · Points: 0

Have you been up to lookout reservoir east of Eugene before?From the town of lowell drive on the Northside of the resevoir for about six miles to a boat ramp and pass the boat ramp a 1/4 mile there will be a logging rd on the left.Park and walk up the hill about half mile or so there will be a clearing on the right cut through there and straight up the hill to the crag.Ive got 20 plus sport climbs up there.You can remain on the road and it will take you to the top of the crag but quicker to approach from below.it is perfect on the hottest days it faces south but the trees keep the base shady.And at the end of the day theres a dock at the boat ramp to dive in the water.There are mostly 5-10 but a couple 8 and 9.Ive named it pet cemetery with names of all my beloved pets I've lost over the years.

slim · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Dec 2004 · Points: 1,093

index is hot as balls and twice as sweaty.  uggh.  go to the enchantments.

Brad Larson · · portland · Joined Apr 2019 · Points: 0

Mt Erie is intriguing but looks like all the camping is booked up. Washington Pass is mostly alpine adventure? My partner is too green for that. Other ideas?

Kyle Elliott · · Granite falls · Joined Jul 2015 · Points: 1,783
Brad Larsonwrote: Mt Erie is intriguing but looks like all the camping is booked up. Washington Pass is mostly alpine adventure? My partner is too green for that. Other ideas?

The hairpin crags are well bolted sport Climbs from 5.4 to 5.11+ but only the "icebox" enjoys full shade, spire gully and Quicksilver are very much in the sun and were too hot for comfort last Sunday. Those crags go into the shade in the evening. 


Index, the exits, Cumberland crags, and some of Leavenworth are doable in high heat if you stay in the tree shade. 

Patrick Beeson · · Portland, OR · Joined Sep 2016 · Points: 171

I was in Leavenworth a few days ago. It was hot, but there were some options: Most South-facing crags in Icicle Creek go into the shade after 7pm. Classic crack was completely shaded and comfortable at 6pm.

Also, check out Parasol before noon in Tumwater ( mountainproject.com/area/11…). It's mostly moderate. The climbing was just OK though.

Pearly Gates is the best option IMHO for cragging in Leavenworth. It stays in the shade until mid-afternoon. Yes, it's a 30-45 minute hike but it'll get you warmed up for climbing. And, you can stop to soak your feet in Icicle Creek on the way down.

Super bonus: My partner and I saw only one other party climbing in Leavenworth after three days of climbing.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Pacific Northwest
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