where to climb when it's too hot
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Taking a short climbing trip next week. Plan was Leavenworth but some forecasts are mid 90's. My partner and I want good camping near water and moderate climbing (5.9 and under) within 5-6 hrs of Portland. Any suggestions? Should we just continue to Leavenworth, climb at dawn and sit in Icicle Creek in the afternoon? |
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I like an afternoon nap/swim, and then you can head back out at 6-7pm for a couple more hours of climbing. |
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I would go to Index if your looking to climb trad, there’s definitely enough 5.9 and under to keep you occupied for a short trip and the camping is right next to the Skykomish. |
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There's plenty of moderate trad routes on Washington Pass. It's been in the 50s on the routes up there, which allows for some lazy alpine starts! |
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second washington pass, the temps would be good and moderate trad climbs are available |
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In the shade |
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Try Mt. Erie in Anacortes. Developed camping at Deception Pass State Park, basic camping at Lake Erie store right near some of the approach trails. |
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You can still climb in the shade in Leavenworth pearly gates is in the shade for most of the morning. And there are some shade spots in clem holler and careno crag. And you can go into town and jump in the river. |
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Have you been up to lookout reservoir east of Eugene before?From the town of lowell drive on the Northside of the resevoir for about six miles to a boat ramp and pass the boat ramp a 1/4 mile there will be a logging rd on the left.Park and walk up the hill about half mile or so there will be a clearing on the right cut through there and straight up the hill to the crag.Ive got 20 plus sport climbs up there.You can remain on the road and it will take you to the top of the crag but quicker to approach from below.it is perfect on the hottest days it faces south but the trees keep the base shady.And at the end of the day theres a dock at the boat ramp to dive in the water.There are mostly 5-10 but a couple 8 and 9.Ive named it pet cemetery with names of all my beloved pets I've lost over the years. |
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index is hot as balls and twice as sweaty. uggh. go to the enchantments. |
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Mt Erie is intriguing but looks like all the camping is booked up. Washington Pass is mostly alpine adventure? My partner is too green for that. Other ideas? |
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Brad Larsonwrote: Mt Erie is intriguing but looks like all the camping is booked up. Washington Pass is mostly alpine adventure? My partner is too green for that. Other ideas? The hairpin crags are well bolted sport Climbs from 5.4 to 5.11+ but only the "icebox" enjoys full shade, spire gully and Quicksilver are very much in the sun and were too hot for comfort last Sunday. Those crags go into the shade in the evening. Index, the exits, Cumberland crags, and some of Leavenworth are doable in high heat if you stay in the tree shade. |
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I was in Leavenworth a few days ago. It was hot, but there were some options: Most South-facing crags in Icicle Creek go into the shade after 7pm. Classic crack was completely shaded and comfortable at 6pm. |




