Changes to the old Triplex bolt

Just saw this today, which is interesting. I re-engineered a bunch of mine like this a few years back (by cutting the flange off the hanger end of the sleeve with a dremmel) and they worked quite well. Personally, I think it's a better design than even the 5-piece if you overlook its obvious removal drawbacks.

There are certainly better (and cheaper) options out there, but I've found this design to come in handy occasionally for certain situations.

nbrown wrote: Just saw this today, which is interesting. I re-engineered a bunch of mine like this a few years back (by cutting the flange off the hanger end of the sleeve with a dremmel) and they worked quite well. Personally, I think it's a better design than even the 5-piece if you overlook its obvious removal drawbacks.

There are certainly better (and cheaper) options out there, but I've found this design to come in handy occasionally for certain situations.

looks like with a 1/2" hanger (which they picture on their site) these could be removed fairly easily by disengaging the inner bolt/cone, and then rocking the sleeve out with pliers like you would with other externally threaded sleeve bolts. with a 3/8" hanger they would definitely be a bear to remove. Think I still like 5-piece better for a permanent placement. 

Still 12mm.  Still dont wanna buy 12mm drill bit.  Can't replace with 1/2 in without drilling 

I really wish the triplex was 1/2 inch.  Much bigger detractor to me

Peter Thomas wrote:

looks like with a 1/2" hanger (which they picture on their site) these could be removed fairly easily by disengaging the inner bolt/cone, and then rocking the sleeve out with pliers like you would with other externally threaded sleeve bolts. 

Yeah, good point. I had forgotten about that since I haven't used externally-threaded sleeve bolts in so long; I had almost always paired the triplex with 3/8" hangers for a more secure placement.

with a 3/8" hanger they would definitely be a bear to remove. 

Yep

Think I still like 5-piece better for a permanent placement. 

Fair enough. Although there have been times (rarely, but it happens) in which I've had the 5-piece cones not set, specifically in highly variable metamorphic rock (meta-sandstones and siltstones mostly), where the cone happened to rest in a soft pocket of rock. In these instances I've had good luck pulling them and replacing with different sleeve bolts such as these and they've always worked well. They snug up nicely because they don't depend on the cone to grip.

For those situations a glue-in is obviously better but that's not always ideal.

Just my 2 cents.

I have a dozen or so triplex that I use as temporary. Now the the BP 6mm twist are made for 1/2 inch holes i probably wont use them as much. The short ones were great to upgrade a small self drive bolt in hard rock. The small self drive sleeves are all 12mm and the hole just needs to be a bit deeper for the triplex. Good for upgrade where you could not power drill. Would probably just do short glue in before buying a triplex without the flange.

Zacks wrote: I really wish the triplex was 1/2 inch.  Much bigger detractor to me

Yeah, I agree. 

Zacks wrote: Still 12mm.  Still dont wanna buy 12mm drill bit.  Can't replace with 1/2 in without drilling

I really wish the triplex was 1/2 inch.  Much bigger detractor to me

While in the past, metric SDS was a PITA and expensive to source in the US, that's changed in the past year or two.  I source 10,12,14 and 16mm fairly easily from Zoro or eBay and not much more than normal bits.  12mm SDS on eBay run about $6.50 for a quality bit (not CN junk).  

Bumping this thread as I see they are now in stock at Fixe (I think they ditched the Triplex name) with no other details listed: https://fixehardware.com/index.php/fixe-ss-12mm-x-75mm-sleeve-bolt.html

Anyone used the new ones yet? Or can anyone provide more feedback on how well the original Triplex works as a permanent installation with the flange removed via dremel/saw? I still have a handful of the originals that I'd like to use, and most of the criticism revolves around the flange/removable aspect vs permanent installation applications with the hangar on top of the flange. I'm not keen on countersinking techniques or nesting the hangar as this seems like too much a PITA. Overall I like this design since there is more surface area compared to a traditional wedge, and no potential for a finicky cone like the 5-piece. 

Questions  #1) When using the older model Triplex Bolt (with flange) can you just place the sleeve with flange underneath the hanger against the rock and put a 3/8 hanger above the flange? That seems a lot easier that grinding off the flange with a dremmel tool or hack sawing off the flange? ... But that leaves the 3/8 hanger (only) resting over the bolt (core) not the bolt and sleeve.  Question #2) Is the sheer strength of this configuration still super strong with the hanger only over the bolt vs. bolt/sleeve?

Rich Travis wrote:

Questions  #1) When using the older model Triplex Bolt (with flange) can you just place the sleeve with flange underneath the hanger against the rock and put a 3/8 hanger above the flange? That seems a lot easier that grinding off the flange with a dremmel tool or hack sawing off the flange? ... But that leaves the 3/8 hanger (only) resting over the bolt (core) not the bolt and sleeve.  Question #2) Is the sheer strength of this configuration still super strong with the hanger only over the bolt vs. bolt/sleeve?

Yes to question 1. Most people I know configured it that way to prevernt inadvertant loosening of the anchor in the event of a "spinning hanger". You can usually wallow the very edge of the hole a little to create a redneck countersink. PITA to deal with on lead though. My assumption is that putting the hanger over the sleeve does not add any appreciable strength, just ease of removal... a little too easy in my book; I want a solid bolt that is damn near permanent since no one climbing the routes seem to know how those clippy things work anymore. Basically, the new Triplex design is just a high quality version of the cheapo hardware-store quality redhead sleeve bolts.

Rich Travis wrote:

Questions  #1) When using the older model Triplex Bolt (with flange) can you just place the sleeve with flange underneath the hanger against the rock and put a 3/8 hanger above the flange? 

Yes and I've done this with success several times. The issue is the hangar may rest a touch above the rock surface which is less than ideal. I haven't experimented with lock washers so I can't say how well the updated version stays put.

Hey guys just happened to get some of these.  So does the locking washer now fix the problem of the bolts/not coming loose over time?  Anyone have any input on this?