Clipping into the thumb loop?

Redacted Redactberg wrote:

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=Ds4R2muUpmo

““It’s not dangerous. It’s dumb.”

I’ve clipped to thumb loop when aid climbing, but it only takes 2kN to deform the loop and destroy ur cam. Thats about the force of a nice whip.

Meh. Deforming/ kinking the loop is not the same as destroying the cam. Also, their pull test was in a funny sort of ring-loaded orientation, which is not the typical case. That said, I almost never have a reason to clip the thumb loop (besides aiding)

Redacted Redactberg wrote:

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=Ds4R2muUpmo

““It’s not dangerous. It’s dumb.”

I’ve clipped to thumb loop when aid climbing, but it only takes 2kN to deform the loop and destroy ur cam. Thats about the force of a nice whip.

Keep in mind, this doesn't really apply to aiding. This is specifically about the ring loading edge case where you are "equalizing" 2 pieces by clipping them together and the lower one pops/falls out, thus putting the entire load through the thumb loop of the cam. This has absolutely nothing to do with clipping an aid ladder to a thumb loop or clipping a single draw into it because those cases do not ring load the thumb loop.

Elaine Gilstrom wrote:

Keep in mind, this doesn't really apply to aiding. This is specifically about the ring loading edge case where you are "equalizing" 2 pieces by clipping them together and the lower one pops/falls out, thus putting the entire load through the thumb loop of the cam. This has absolutely nothing to do with clipping an aid ladder to a thumb loop or clipping a single draw into it because those cases do not ring load the thumb loop.

You are right, didn’t pay attention to the failure mode. The wire splits from the top of the loop.