Can quick links be loaded dynamically?

Can a quick link be used as a belay 'biner with a grigri? It's rated to 25kn, but someone pointed out to me they aren't rated for dynamic falls.

Like a maillon? In lieu of a locking biner? Can't see why not.

Its steel so it's better at handling "dynamic" loads than the aluminum biners you're normally using with it. I use them for lead and TR soloing. 

A steel quick link rated for 25kn (5620 lbf) is safe. Quick links are found in permadraws and anchors which are expected to take dynamic loading. 

Albert Cronenberg wrote: Can a quick link be used as a belay 'biner with a grigri? It's rated to 25kn, but someone pointed out to me they aren't rated for dynamic falls.

You could, but why? Do you not own any carabiners? One locking carabiner? Should we start a GoFundMe campaign for you to get you a locker?

F Loyd wrote: Its steel so it's better at handling "dynamic" loads than the aluminum biners you're normally using with it. 

hmmm......I have been thinking the opposite ever since my one material science class. All it took was one class for the Dunning-Kruger effect?!?

No biner is dynamic.  Dynamic gear stretches under load, so you stop more slowly.  Even if it is a small stretch, it can help lessen the load.

Load ratings are total, there is no dynamic or static load rating.  Gear that stretches lowers the peak loads by extending the time it takes to decelerate.  Our bodies are just internally supported water balloons.  If our gear didn't stretch, when we suddenly stopped, all the soft stuff inside us would keep moving, rupturing organs and leading to all sorts of other nasty consequences.

A quicklink could be used as a belay biner, but it isn't ideal because of the way it is designed (opening, size...).  As long as you are using a dynamic rope, the system is dynamic.

Albert Cronenberg wrote:....but someone pointed out to me they aren't rated for dynamic falls.

“Someone” is a dumbass

Mark Pilate wrote:

“Someone” is a dumbass

Or someone listened to someone on MP

Gumby King wrote:

Or someone listened to someone on MP

Is that different

Mike wrote:

Is that different

42

I read many years ago that anything slower than the speed of sound through the material (hint - very fast) is equivalent to a slow pull. Last time I checked, climbers don't fall at >Mach1. Feel free to update me with test results.

Albert Cronenberg wrote: Can a quick link be used as a belay 'biner with a grigri? It's rated to 25kn, but someone pointed out to me they aren't rated for dynamic falls.

Beware micro-fractures as well. They are deadly.

I can't see how the quick links load rating matters, unless 1) you don't have it screwed closed, or 2) it's narrower 1/4" shank focuses the load on a smaller surface area of your belay loop compared to a standard belay locker. But for these to become problems you'd have to somehow compromise the limits of the primary force absorber, aka the rope, first.

Just retire it after every fall to avoid micro fractures

Gunkiemike wrote: I read many years ago that anything slower than the speed of sound through the material (hint - very fast) is equivalent to a slow pull. Last time I checked, climbers don't fall at >Mach1. Feel free to update me with test results.

The speed of sound in steel is 13,332mph, bit higher than Mach 1. Not that that's relevant!  Materials have a characteristic called rate of strain sensitivity which basically tells us how strong it is at whatever speed the load is applied, for most metals this rises to a maximum then drops again. The only place I know of that it could be of relevance climbing is in the nose hook of karabiners (or in equipment for ice climbing as it is temperature dependent).

Disclaimer: I am not a professional [whatever you would need to be to give legal climbing advice]

Lots of poor answers here so I wanted to chime in:

1. Matt Himmelstein is correct that *no biner is dynamic* (quick link or standard climbing carabineer).
2. *Biners don't need to be dynamic* in typical climbing applications because they are always connected to a dynamic system (i.e. your climbing rope) in cases where they will be dynamically loaded. This is why your climbing anchor cordelette, the dogbones on your draws, and the belay loop on your harness also don't need to be dynamic.
3. Because all these items are not dynamic, *you need to avoid shock loading them in fully static systems*. The only configuration I can see this happening is when you are personal-anchored into the anchor while cleaning and you fall some distance on your personal-anchor. People talk about avoiding this because your sling can break but your biner could break for the same reason (though maybe less likely).
4. *A well-made quick link should be just as capable of handling climbing loads as a biner*. There are still a few things to consider though. Because quick links are not all made for climbing there are varying levels of quality. I suggest a purpose-built climbing certified quick link. Also the shape is very different so your belay device may not be able to move the way they are designed (e.g. gri gris need to cam). Also some links are rated as high as biners but have quite a small diameter. A rope or belay loop may experience more wear, or even fail, because of the tight radius that it wraps around, though this probably won't be an issue if your rope isn't moving through the quick link.

quick link...someone pointed out to me they aren't rated for dynamic falls.

You should dig into this "someone"'s ideas about gear more, it could give us a lot to talk about!

Was watching a video about quick links yesterday - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ObafGXnQm4U, addresses some other odd quicklink notions, though not your peculiar notion - I'm just enjoying this channel at the moment.

may one dynamically load quiklinks?  sheesh

Jim Titt wrote:

The speed of sound in steel is 13,332mph, bit higher than Mach 1.....

But the speed of idiocy is a bit higher yet

https://youtu.be/h7rg20Fy4cc