As Francis says the big problems (apart from cost) are the limited stroke and capacity of the commercial testers, to rip out most bolts you need 50+kN and 5-6" stroke. The commercial testers generally only need to test the bolt not pull it and if they actually need them to come out then things get real big and expensive.
I´ve made four of these (I think) with two different models. The basis is a cheapo Chinese hole punch made for steelwork (making holes in steel shuttering) and they come in 10 and 15 ton vaiations. Like all Chinese hydraulic stuff the rating is when they don´t break, not what you can achieve, normally reckon on about 1/2 unless you weigh 100kg and jump up and down on the handle.
The pull cylinder is made for a threaded adaptor which is of no use to us so you unscrew the top cap, they aren´t very tight so an oil filter wrench or similar is ok. There´s a spring inside!
Remove the piston and drill through 20mm (it´s already bored most of the way so easy enough in a pillar drill). The top cap you drill through 30mm or similar. Looks like this from the top;-

As the piston is lower than the cap you need an extension to the piston to get a nut on the pull rod (20mm stainless threadall), a piece of heavy wall pipe does this.
A clevis (or whatever on the bottom of the pull bar) and a nut and washer for the top. I make the nut easier to use by welding rod onto it, it´s only finger tight anyway.
Then a suitable base strong enough and high enought to get the range you want, maybe 8" or so. Mine are a ring to hold the ram (there´s a locking screw visible on the front which locates into a dimple you drill into the ram). The legs are 35mm thick-walled tube with M20 nuts welded on the bottom for the 20mm threaded rod feet (60-100mm long) so you can adjust for uneven rock. You need the tie rod running round the bottom to stop them spreading. It doesn´t look like it but the legs are actually angled slightly outwards.

Then you nee to decide how to measure the force, there´s four obvious choices. A normal S-beam strain guage, a pancake strain guage, a normal hydraulic guage or an electronic pressure guage. The first two are big, heavy, expensive and need (normally) a computer to read them out (other solutions are available). Normal hyraulic pressure guages (manometers) are cheap but hard to read with much accuracy as they are small, maybe 2kN is as good as you can get). I´ve used two different ones before now, a 200bar one and a 600bar (that´s the operating pressure) to try to get more accuracy for weaker bolts. Digital manometer are the way to go nowadays as they are much cheaper nowadays, under $100 or so. They are in reality a very small strain guage inside anyway so pretty accurate and have peak load readout, you have to make your own conversion chart from the pressure to the actual pull force but when you had the ram apart you measured the piston diameter so calculating is easy! Mine is fitted into an adaptor which goes between the quick coupler and the body of the ram using the old coupler hole BUT not all of the hole punches come with the coupler, some the hose is permanent (you can retro-fit them if desired). The adaptors themselves are really hard to find and cost a fortune though! All the later ones I´ve made I drill into the ram body and tap them 3/8"BSP or whatever suits the manometer.

The rod loop is to protect the guage when you throw it down the cliff! Directly under the ram on the base there is a loop welded on which you cant see, this is more or less at the balance point so you can hang the thing up on the cliff in position while you get it all set up.
I actually modify the pump as well, it´s ok if you are working on the ground where you can press against the rock or the ground but on the rope you are only squeezing the handle and the pump together, I weld up the original pivot holes on the handle and re-drill them to get more mechanical advantage.
To use it you hook it all up and pump away, the stroke is 25mm so BEFORE it ends you release the pressure and take up the slack with the wing nut and pump again. If you pump until the stroke ends the manometer records this as the maximum force so you have to reset each time otherwise, I´d put a red line on the tube extending the cylinder so you know when to stop.
If you use weak rubbish like a steel biner to connect to the bolt and it breaks the hydraulic shock may jam the valves in the coupler preventing you from retracting the ram, a tap on the pin in the coupler will free this off.
The whole thing weighs in about 12kg, better than my big one which goes in at 35kg!
Takes about day to make and the whole thing looks like this (a different one).