Quad anchor using webbing
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I am still quite new in the climbing world and have been trying to figure out the best way to set up a top rope anchor. I've read and heard great things about webbing and the same for quad anchors but I can't find anything for making a quad with webbing. If I were to tie a loop of webbing with a water knot and the tying barrel knots to back up the tails, would a quad anchor be acceptable? |
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Incoming quad thread |
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I don't think that the water knot requires backups. You just need to inspect the knot to make sure that there are appropriate tails whenever you use it. Other than that, it would work as a quad. |
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Incoming quad threadDoesn't have to be. |
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Not here to weigh in on quads vs. others. John Long advises caution with water knots in his book, Climbing Anchors: |
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Skye Swoboda-Colberg wrote: Double fisherman's knot is the way to go. Even though the webbing is flat? |
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Just get 6 meters of Sterling 7 mm cordelette if you want to work with quad anchors. You can even get pre-sewn ones if you do not want to fuss with the double fishermans. |
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Jared Dowdle wrote: Yup, even though it's flat. |
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Quad made out of webbing works fine and is perfectly safe. See above for knot comments. |
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I have a 240cm black diamond nylon runner that I commonly use for building a quad. If you decide you don't want to tie knots in your webbing, you could always get a runner (downside is price). |
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B G wrote: I have a 240cm black diamond nylon runner that I commonly use for building a quad. If you decide you don't want to tie knots in your webbing, you could always get a runner (downside is price). This is the answer. Don't use bulk webbing (even though you can) - buy a 240 cm Dynex/Dyneema runner for making a quad. |
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If you plan on doing a lot of top roping, a length of static line simply cannot be beat. Get 100ft of line and you can still reach back to trees and whatnot. It will last forever, practically. |
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Edit: deleted as to not spread irrelevant info |
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Chris Cragsocks wrote: https://youtu.be/Vrgadjo9niY OP is top roping. Link is irrelevant with that much dynamic rope in the system and only spreads FUD. OP: Your webbing quad is fine - even though it's overkill for top roping. |
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wivanoff wrote: Ah. I missed the TR part. My mistake. However, I have experienced significant wear on a dyneema equalette with waterknots for an extended TR anchor. If the anchor moves back and forth and the knot rubs, it could be catastrophic. This happened after one session. |
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Chris Cragsocks wrote: A water knot is used to join webbing ends e.g. to make a loop from bulk webbing off the spool. PLEASE tell me you didn't use a (prone to slippage) water knot in (known to be slippery) Dyneema-containing webbing to fashion a sling or anchor. |
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Gunkiemike wrote: perhaps i'm using the wrong term. it was a closed loop sling with a dressed overhand for each limiter knot on the equalette. basically, its an overhand on a bight. its the same knot as a water knot, but perhaps water knot is used only as a term to join two webbing ends together. |
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Chris Cragsocks wrote: AFAIK that is correct. The water knot and the OH on a bight are topologically similar but are quite different in the way they are loaded. |
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Tree Soloist wrote: Not here to weigh in on quads vs. others. John Long advises caution with water knots in his book, Climbing Anchors: water knots in webbing are fine. they are similar to bowlines in the sense that they will creep and can loosen under cyclic loading (well documented), but as long as you check your knots (which you should) everything is gravy. edit: an easy way to manage this is to never leave a water knot tied in your webbing. always tie it at point of use. |
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Gunkiemike wrote: Now that you mention it, you're right. The water knot loads on one strand on each side of the knot (since there is a loose end) while the overhand loads both strands. I learn something new everyday. |