Mountain Project Logo

UL Mastercam vs. dragonfly

Original Post
Tankie Green · · Lakewood, CO · Joined Feb 2018 · Points: 0

Basically the title. Looking for personal pros and cons for each below the .5 C4 range. I bought a yellow #2 master cam to start filling out smaller cams, but started looking into DMM dragonflys and i like my roommates Dragons quite a bit.
So MP, give me your opinions

Malcolm Daly · · Hailey, ID · Joined Jan 2001 · Points: 380

You will learn to dance with the partner you brought to the ball. 

Andrew Rice · · Los Angeles, CA · Joined Jan 2016 · Points: 11

I own Dragonflies, Totems, X4s and some Totem Basics. The first time I placed a red dragonfly it had cable problems just from my partner removing it gently. Not impressed by that. They look nice. But not so sure about the build quality.

I actually like the two smallest sized X4s, the red and yellow. For less than .5 finger cams I don't think there's anything better than black, blue, yellow in Totems, but that's not what you asked.

I've used UL Mastercams. They do what they're made for. I'd probably take them over Dragonflies. 

Buck Rio · · MN · Joined Jul 2015 · Points: 16

I have NOT used Dragonfly's. All I can say is that the Metolius UL Master cam works as intended, at a reasonable price for what I climb.
I don't aid climb anymore (other than French Free), and I seldom climb anything but granite and Eldo sandstone.

If you can afford it, everyone who gets Totems raves about them.

Alex Fletcher · · Las Vegas · Joined May 2016 · Points: 252

I love my orange (.45) and yellow (.35) mastercams. The blue (.25) one is alright. But I prefer a red C3.

Smaller master cams like the purple and grey I dislike because the bulb at the end of the stem in between the lobes is too big and gets stuck on irregularities in the cracks I try to place them in (red rock sandstone). 
I frequently like to use the red (.55) and black (.8) mastercams also for their narrow head width and very light weight. But I don’t use the bigger green (1.05) very often in favor of the black diamond (1). 

I have not tried the dragonfly’s. 

Gunkiemike · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2009 · Points: 3,737
Alex Fletcher wrote:
Smaller master cams like the purple and grey I dislike because the bulb at the end of the stem in between the lobes is too big and gets stuck on irregularities in the cracks I try to place them in (red rock sandstone). 

Ah, that's not a problem... it's a FEATURE. Think of it as a 5th cam lobe.

Tankie Green · · Lakewood, CO · Joined Feb 2018 · Points: 0
Malcolm Daly wrote: You will learn to dance with the partner you brought to the ball. 

Omg, Malcolm Daly out here spitting words of wisdom at me. I feel so honored. Note taken. I’ll just keep going with the mastercams. Haha.

Erik B · · New York, NY · Joined Oct 2016 · Points: 91

I have a set of 00 to 5 UL Mastercams and I really like them. In fact I went for doubles 1-5 and have no regrets. I climb mostly in the Gunks and they seam to always just fit nicely somewhere.

I've also used Aliens, X4s, C3s, TCUs, and some of the smaller Totems. All of them are just fine. They all work if you place 'em right.

Kyle MacKrell · · Zion NP · Joined Feb 2014 · Points: 1

totems and aliens

Zach Raney · · Moab · Joined Aug 2014 · Points: 0

Mastercams are the shiz

Greg Davis · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Aug 2008 · Points: 10
Malcolm Daly wrote: You will learn to dance with the partner you brought to the ball. 

Damn if that isn't poetry 

Matt N · · CA · Joined Oct 2010 · Points: 476
Malcolm Daly wrote: You will learn to dance with the partner you brought to the ball. 

aka Gear Boggles

pacmanito <^^> · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Mar 2019 · Points: 0

By the way why Dragonflies have 10-20% smaller range compared to Metolius UL despite having slightly bigger camming angle (13.75 vs 13.25)?
Do IRL Dragonflies have the smallest range among all cams produced nowadays?

akafaultline · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Nov 2007 · Points: 225

I keep hearing rumors about a new mastercam.  Anyone have a Link for beta?

Tyler S · · SLC · Joined Jun 2016 · Points: 5

Haven't used the Dragonflies but I absolutely love my ULMCs and Metolius has some of the best customer service around. 

Rodrigo Ceja · · Ventura Ca · Joined Jul 2019 · Points: 15
  • I have dragonfly's and UL mastercams.

I love them both.  

Dragonfly's  are more flexible  and in my opinion/experience DMM puts out great craftmanship (metal parts where aliens use plastic). I hear the angle on these cams is how they get a bit more Kn rating with them.  More bomber with yes a lil less range.
Dragonfly's are more durable than aliens as well.. Aliens use softer metals for their cam lobes for better bite on the rock which makes then less durable over time.

Metolious is also quality but maybe a bit less of a specialty item.  And by that I mean Metolious for me are "everyday driver cars". Dependable and durable. Plus quality customer service.

And at some point if you're like me, you'll end up with a variety of brands and sizes.  Now such thing as a rack that's too big. I think of the range of my rack not the range of my cams.
Versatility is key!

Layne Zuelke · · Baton Rouge, LA · Joined Mar 2019 · Points: 30
akafaultline wrote: I keep hearing rumors about a new mastercam.  Anyone have a Link for beta?

I hope to hell the bring the thumb loop back. The tiny bit of weight savings they got by eliminating it makes for a cam that’s harder to work with and the anodizing looks like crap after a short time. 

Luke Andraka · · Crownsville, MD · Joined Aug 2017 · Points: 15

i used to place the mastercams more, got a few smallest dragon flies to try out. still place totems more. like the dragonflies more for stuff too small for totems though

M A · · CA · Joined Jun 2015 · Points: 22

I haven't used dragonflies, but mastercams are wonderful and they frequently are found on sale or for cheap used. And reslinging is super cheap. If you are going to get doubles, why not get a rack of both, probably good overlap. 

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Climbing Gear Discussion
Post a Reply to "UL Mastercam vs. dragonfly"

Log In to Reply
Welcome

Join the Community! It's FREE

Already have an account? Login to close this notice.