Converting from dual to mono and back
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How many of you actually spend the time to convert your crampons back and forth like the Lynx, Rambos, M10 etc? |
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Every set of crampons I've had that are mono/dual convertible have spent their entire time with me in mono mode. The only reason I keep the extra bits needed to switch to dual is when it comes time to sell them. There are potential buyers out there who think they prefer dual (because they haven't yet learned how awesome monopoints are). |
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Just buy two pairs ... crampons are like boots one can not have too many. |
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Any pair of convertible poons I have owned have lived their entire lifes in whatever configuration I initially set them up in. Way too much of a PINTA to change them. If you prefer the mono setting the extra point is a good replacement. They basically come with a spare pick :) |
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^^^ yep, have a pair of mono's and some horizontal dual points for easy ice/ski mountaineering. If you're a good climber you can climb pretty hard ice and mixed with either and just use whatever you fell like. Although mono's are definitely preferable for most mixed situations and like Nick said they come with an extra point when you inevitable destroy the first ones. |
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The bd ones take about 2 min to switch. If loosening and tightening a bolt makes you fear that you might ruin the hardware then you’re probably right, you shouldn’t. I posted a step by step instruction on MP for the initial conversion. It’s pretty simple. |
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I generally switch from mono to dual while climbing mid-pitch, usually by about the third or fourth screw but never the fifth or sixth. I'll stop, make a good mid-anchor, switch over, and then climb to the anchor proper. It makes for a longer day, but it's totally worth it |
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I used to switch out points with my bladerunners, generally starting the season with dual and converting to mono as time goes on. Now with alpinist tech / pro I generally just grab one or the other, and leave the bladerunners in mono mode. I do tend to agree with you that if the front points are at their limit it's likely the rest of the crampon is worn down in other places as well. |
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Jake wander wrote: The bd ones take about 2 min to switch. If loosening and tightening a bolt makes you fear that you might ruin the hardware then you’re probably right, you shouldn’t. I posted a step by step instruction on MP for the initial conversion. It’s pretty simple. It's clear from the comments in the thread where you posted your step-by-step (link below) that many people don't find the Cyborg D->M change to be a straightforward 2 minute operation. And I'd challenge ANYONE to go through your steps incl. the requisite Dremel cuts, in 2 minutes. |
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Gunkiemike wrote: Switching back and forth takes two minutes. As I stated above, my instructions are for the initial conversion which requires cutting the anti-bot plate. You don’t need to use a dremel to cut the plate every time you change out your points.... |
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I started ice climbing last season and purchase a pair of Lynx. They came set up with dual points and I ran them that way. I had read that dual points are good for beginners, more stable. |
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You guys must have too much time on your hands. Its all I can do to get the ice pack thrown together and get out the door. Funny that Duals care useless for climbing rock.. I guess someone forgot to tell Kevin Mahoney that.. |
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Nick Goldsmith wrote: Funny that Duals care useless for climbing rock.. I guess someone forgot to tell Kevin Mahoney that.. No need, he seems to already know. Here's a video of him sharpening his monopoint crampons: https://youtu.be/ocgLL9N7weg?t=76 |
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Cool Video. My friend who climbed with him in NH told me that he was using duals on evenything up to when the fruit boots went on.. Lots of folks in the N. Conway area had that conversation where he felt that on thin ice the duals were more stable. Lots of shots of him climbing locally with duals. he certainly may have switched back but he certainly showed that duals could climb rock way harder than I can. One of my regular partners climbed with and was converted to duals. he climbs circles around me and talked me into trying duals. I felt them to be more stable. Climbing is 90% mental so if you feel something is helping your game it will. It's all good . Just don't say something silly like duals are useless on rock when lots folks have climbed real serious stuff in them... |
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From Will Gadd article in Gripped magazine, February, 2018 |
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I find on really candled stuff I can cam little icicles with my duals, ( used to do this with Foot Fangs BINTD) on super thin slabbly stuff the duals are twice as stable as monos and for the level of rock climbing I do in the winter 5.8 ish they work just fine. YMMV |
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Lynx take 5 min to switch over, simple. Use linking bar as wrench on the locknuts. |
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Some people are better with tools than others. I have a buddy who would strip every bolt and nut if he tried to change over even once. |
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I just go climbing.. :) I'm lucky to have enough time to check and test if shit is tight and still fits the boot.. |
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I shouldn't have made the statement that "dual's are worthless on rock". As I am a total noob and this season is my first dry tooling. So far my experience with a lot of the bolted sport routs for pure rock climbing or dry tooling have been challenging for me. Placing a tool pick in a thin crack surrounded by smooth rock and torquing on it is one thing but getting a crampon point in there with duels... |
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If I was climbing compltly dry routes ( not likly to happen) I would go straight for the fruit boots. the kind of rock you encounter on regular routes that have thin ice and incidental mixed climbing I feel pretty solid on the duals. Dike, Repentance, Fafnir etc... a few years ago I led the 1st pitch of the gent in pretty thin and hollow conditions. 3 pieces of gear in 100ft. and felt that duals helped a bit. that being said I would still have gotten up it in stingers though I might have had to clean my pants out with a snowball at the belay... |