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The Obed

Original Post
Luca Malde · · Sewanee, TN/Bar Harbor, ME · Joined Feb 2019 · Points: 11

I'm headed to The Obed in Tennessee over Thanksgiving break, but only for about two days. I've never been there, and given the super short amount of time I wanted to find some top-priority climbs. Any suggestions?

Matthew Massey · · South Charleston, WV · Joined Oct 2016 · Points: 5

If you're in the Obed, obviously you should check out the namesake mega-roofs the rock there offers. Lilly Bluff is awesome because of the short approach and it has some pretty great lines. You can spend an entire day there. Just expect it to be a little crowded if you're there on a weekend. Heresy (11c) there is awesome and is classic Obed jug roof goodness. Stephen King's Library is another super popular area, for good reason. Is there any grade range you're looking for?

Matt S · · Colorado Springs · Joined Mar 2019 · Points: 132

South clear creek has a lot of classics with a 15-20 minute approach.  Spawn (10a/b), solstice (12a), best seat in the house (9), double feature (10c) and pale face (11a) to name a few. It's also one of the busiest areas in the Obed. Most of them have great views from the top.

Luca Malde · · Sewanee, TN/Bar Harbor, ME · Joined Feb 2019 · Points: 11

Awesome, thanks! Those grades are about perfect, so I'll add those to my to-do list.

Kyle McPheeters · · Chattanooga, TN · Joined Nov 2013 · Points: 1

South clear will be better than lily if it's cold...tieranny better than both if its really cold. Awesome steep climbing that gets warm if the sun is shining, but good stuff  generally starts at 5.12 there. 

Chris Votaw · · Georgetown, KY · Joined Jul 2017 · Points: 10

To tag onto what Kyle said, while the grades in tieranny roof are very high, all of the routes have 5.10-5.11+ face climbs that lead into the steep. If you like techs face climbs you can take these to the perma draws and lower off. Makes for a good day in one of the best crags in the country. 

Jim U · · Suh-veer-vul, TN · Joined Jul 2015 · Points: 81

What the two Matt's said!

Lilly Bluff: Heresy, tics are for kids, Tarentella

South Clear: Spawn, alchemy, pale face, best seat in the house

Also a must visit is Lilly Pad brewery.  it's the Miguel's of the Obed with better beer. You can snag a couple of Kelly Brown's guide book there if you haven't gotten one already 

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Southern States
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