Mountain Project Logo

Evolv Oracle

Original Post
Men Boon · · East B'jesus · Joined Jan 2019 · Points: 0

The Evolv Oracle is marketed as an all around shoe.  From steeps to slabs it performs at the highest level.  My verdict: Yes it does.

I actually bought a pair from REI on Thursday. I’m a 10.5 street shoe and bought a 10.  They were tight, but weren’t uncomfortable in the slightest.  When they’re finally broken in I’m sure they’ll be phenomenal.

I used them on a 5.11a yesterday.  It started with some super tricky slab moves.  Hand foot matching, small edges, and crimps.  The Oracles didn’t let me down.   After the slab there’s a super demanding overhang.  Hooking my feet into the Wall was a breeze and the heel hook to bump through mediocre holds stuck like glue.

Only one day wearing them and I almost sent my first 5.11a! 
I tend to prefer shoes with a split outsole, but have a semi stiff midsole.  The testarossas fit those criteria, but the heel was horrible and floppy.  The oracles have taken their place.  In fact, I’ll be getting another pair so I can send them out of state to get them Resoled.
If you have a C witdth toe box (men) and a LV/normal heel these will fit like a glove.  You may want to get them in your street shoe size, but 1/2 size down worked well for me.  They are fully synthetic so they won’t stretch, but will conform to your foot.  Anyway, if you have any questions feel free to drop a comment and I’ll do my best to answer them.

Justin Laursen · · Chattanooga, TN · Joined Sep 2010 · Points: 430

As someone who has owned them longer than three days, I’ll just let you know that they will stretch. They will also smell terrible in short time. That being said, they’re a great shoe. 

Men Boon · · East B'jesus · Joined Jan 2019 · Points: 0
Justin Laursen wrote: As someone who has owned them longer than three days, I’ll just let you know that they will stretch. They will also smell terrible in short time. That being said, they’re a great shoe. 

That’s good to know, how much will they stretch?

Justin Laursen · · Chattanooga, TN · Joined Sep 2010 · Points: 430

Hard to say exactly how much they will stretch. I was lucky enough to try on a buddy’s pair of broken in Oracles before purchasing them. I ended up getting the same size as him and I’ll say I was a little taken aback at how tight my new pair was when they arrived. That being said, I didn’t really like them much during the stretching out period, but now that they’re stinky and loose, they’re a great, aggressive and sensitive shoe with tight heels. A+.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Climbing Gear Reviews
Post a Reply to "Evolv Oracle"

Log In to Reply
Welcome

Join the Community! It's FREE

Already have an account? Login to close this notice.