Getting into ice climbing

Hi fellow climbers!

If you are interested in getting into ice climbing, then here are five tips.

https://youtu.be/6jQRf7MYRww

What would be your biggest questions if you wanted to start ice climbing?

My biggest question would be: How much does ice climbing cost?

John Kerry wrote: My biggest question would be: How much does ice climbing cost?

Answer - how much do you have?

I want to get into ice this year. Unfortunately up here in Ontario its been a real mild winter so far. Damn mother nature! There is an ice climbing “craig” not far from me as well and a company that will take you out top roping for the day. Its pricey though, $250 for about 5hrs of climbing/belaying. ive been debating it just to get the experince finally but shes pricey..

I have a few questions:
1. Always wondered if you swimg the tool and by accident hit the rope, has it ever severed on anyone? Is that possible? I know its a freak chance but just wondering. Yes and I know you need to obviously watch wha your doing at all times.

2. Whats a beginners normal course of action to get into ice climbing? Take the course? Find a mentor? I dont think you can just show up at the waterfall, jacket, helment and “touqe” on and tools ready looking for a partner. How did you guys get into it? Points if you know what a toque is lol.

3. What should be trained prior to ice season? I heard its very hard on the calves, so flexibility and working on the calf muscles im guessing would help?

4. Is there a crampon that can be used both for ice climbing vertically and for glacier/ice travel? Or do we need to buy both ( 2 types of crampons) eventually?

​Ill start with those lol

Thanks

North Col

1 - yes the tool can sometimes go directly through the rope but it’s very rare. However, due to rope construction it generally won’t sever it.

2 - yes, generally take a course and then find a mentor. It’s a high price of entry into the sport so I’d recommend an intro day to ensure you like it before getting the gear.

3 - not a whole lot you need to work on for low level ice besides good movement and technique. Your calves will hurt but not that much. Steep ice is different.

4 - you can use any horizontal front point crampon for ice as well as glacier. It’s not totally ideal but again for entry level it will be fine. 

North Col wrote: I want to get into ice this year. Unfortunately up here in Ontario its been a real mild winter so far. Damn mother nature! There is an ice climbing “craig” not far from me as well and a company that will take you out top roping for the day. Its pricey though, $250 for about 5hrs of climbing/belaying. ive been debating it just to get the experince finally but shes pricey..

I have a few questions:
1. Always wondered if you swimg the tool and by accident hit the rope, has it ever severed on anyone? Is that possible? I know its a freak chance but just wondering. Yes and I know you need to obviously watch wha your doing at all times.

I find the rope gets in the way while toproping. It helps to have an attentive belayer who knows how much slack to leave you to keep the rope out of the way when you're swinging. I wouldn't worry about the rope severing after one hit.

2. Whats a beginners normal course of action to get into ice climbing? Take the course? Find a mentor? I dont think you can just show up at the waterfall, jacket, helment and “touqe” on and tools ready looking for a partner. How did you guys get into it? Points if you know what a toque is lol.

I just bought the gear. Instead of a $250 class "to see if you like it", you could buy a decent pair of used boots and crampons. If you had boots and crampons (and harness/belay device/helmet), I imagine it would be super easy to get someone from MP or facebook groups to agree meeting up with you at a crag and share their tools. If you like it, then take a look at getting your own tools. I usually wear a balaclava and toque.

3. What should be trained prior to ice season? I heard its very hard on the calves, so flexibility and working on the calf muscles im guessing would help?

Build up those calves, core, and forearms. It's easier to struggle bus your way up ice than rock, and it doesn't require as much flexibility.

4. Is there a crampon that can be used both for ice climbing vertically and for glacier/ice travel? Or do we need to buy both ( 2 types of crampons) eventually?

Get step-in crampons; make sure the boots you get have toe and heel welts.

My biggest question is: How long does it take to become an expert climber? 

North Col wrote: 
I have a few questions:
1. Always wondered if you swimg the tool and by accident hit the rope, has it ever severed on anyone? Is that possible? I know its a freak chance but just wondering. Yes and I know you need to obviously watch wha your doing at all times.

I am one of those unfortunate fools who once put an axe right through the center of my rope while TRing. It was totally fine, I just lowered down easy and then cut the end off later. It was definitely a bummer though especially since it was the only bicolor rope I've ever owned and then immediately the nice midmark was rendered obsolete! :P

John Kerry wrote: My biggest question is: How long does it take to become an expert climber? 

I have been climbing ice 5 years and confidently lead WI5 but I still don't consider myself an expert, or even close. It's really hard to log hours on ice (compared to rock) and even harder to master the many different ways ice can form. I still see formations all the time that I've never come across before.

I can't tell you how long it takes only that, for me, I expect it will be much longer than 5 years.

John Kerry wrote: My biggest question is: How long does it take to become an expert climber? 

Way back when (mid 1970s) one of the earliest ice climbing books said that one can become proficient on rock in one year, but achieving a similar level of proficiency on ice takes five years. And "proficient" << "expert".

I guess it comes down to how much you climb. Being based in Denmark I have travel to find any ice climbing crags - even rock climbing crags ;) The first couple of seasons I went maybe once a year on a dedicated ice climbing trip, meaning that I kinda lost the "touch" each time. The last couple of years I have been prioritising ice climbing more, and going on more trips - this year will end with four trips to Italy and Austria meaning that I can build experience and confidence more efficiently, and then get into higher grades quicker. So, just go climb, then you will gain experience :D