Harness with the most gear loop space, but all in one row

I'll throw out another recommendation that you give the stacked loop system of the MM Caddy a try.  I keep belay device, lockers, prussik, anchor material, double length slings, nut tool etc. (things I am unlikely to need to grab in a rush) on the bottom loops, use my front loops for pro, and use the rear loops for draws.  I can't imagine a better way to do it, as having more gear on the same plane would either end up too far in front, getting in the way of your climbing, or too far back so that it is tough to reach and hard to see.

One thing to note about the bottom loops on the MM is that they are staggered. I have yet to experience the problem you are describing (digging around for gear at different stack heights) and my Cadillac needs replacement soon. My only complaint is that the leg loops aren't very durable; they get ratty and chewed up well before the structural components wear out.

Paul Morrison wrote: I know that this is not the information you asked for, but it might help you decide: my last Petzl harness will indeed be my last Petzl harness because the plastic core inside one of the gear loops snapped, so there's nothing left but fabric. Yes, there are several ways I can think of to "repair" it, but none of them would give me any confidence in the remaining loops.

Same thing happened to me!  The internal plastic on one of the loop of my Adjama snapped.  Now that loop kind of sags and I wonder how robust it is.  Other than that I really like the harness.

Marc801 C wrote:

That's why for trad you don't rack on your harness 'cept for draws and maybe a few of the large cams if you're carrying them.

Yeah, it's the rage among the newbies, but I could never stand all that weight on the harness nor the inability to swing stuff around in front of me, like being on a Gunks overhang on the right arm and needing the piece that is at the right rear of the harness.

I dunno, I actually prefer to reach around to a piece on my harness when on a Gunks overhang. I tried the gear sling for a little while, and had issues because it kept swinging all the pieces around behind me when I was on overhangs. *shrug* Maybe it's just a personal preference thing.

Larry S wrote: Have you considered the BD Technician?  I have 2 of the older version (Aspect), and I like it quite a bit.  I used to use a BD Big-Gun (Their Wall harness), and I wanted a harness that carried my rack as well, but wasn't so bulky.  I love the rear (5th) gear loop on my harnesses, that's where all the belay stuff goes, and why i got the Aspect... device, locker, nut tool, cordolette, gloves, etc all out of the way in the back.  I typically carry 13 cams, 2 biners of nuts, a set of tricams, and 12 alpine draws on the harness, and, while it's croweded, i've no issue with it.

That said, that new Adjama you linked to with the 5th loop on the back looks really nice.  The DMM looks alright, but I'd have to try those cascading back gear loops before i was sold on it.  If I went with the Misty, I'd want them to put a 5th loop across the back for me.

The BD Technician has minuscule gear loops.  I couldn't stand it so I got a Petzl Adjama which also has a rear/5th gear loop.  Love it!  Massive front loops that are molded, small middle loops, big rear loop for anchor/belay kit.  I comfortably carry a Creek rack on the two front loops.

David Kerkeslager wrote:

I dunno, I actually prefer to reach around to a piece on my harness when on a Gunks overhang. I tried the gear sling for a little while, and had issues because it kept swinging all the pieces around behind me when I was on overhangs. *shrug* Maybe it's just a personal preference thing.

I used the single gear sling for many years but moved to something like this BD Zodiac, but minus the big piece of fabric / small pack in the back - just two slings crossed as an X and stitched together; you put it on like a jacket. My original was a J-Rat big wall racking sling, eventually replaced with a lighter weight version by some defunct manufacturer that I don't remember without looking at it.

David Kerkeslager wrote:

I dunno, I actually prefer to reach around to a piece on my harness when on a Gunks overhang. I tried the gear sling for a little while, and had issues because it kept swinging all the pieces around behind me when I was on overhangs. *shrug* Maybe it's just a personal preference thing.

Talk to me about that after leading Fat City or Carbs & Caffeine.

I now use the Adjama and like it a lot.  I also have an older BD Momentum and a custom made MM Cadillac which I no longer use, and I tried an Arcteryx a395 (didn't like it all and returned immediately).  The Petzl is the most comfortable and has plenty of gear loop space if you rack entirely on your harness.  My only complaint is the same issue where one of the plastic inserts inside a front gear loop broke after about ~10 days outside.  It doesn't really affect the functionality at all, but it's annoying.  

Why do you need anymore than 5 gear loops ? I can fit a double rack of cams, all types of nuts, 14 draws and tons of tat and belay devices on 5 gear loops, if you're carrying more than this lighten up your rack. 

BD Technician barely has enough gear loop space for sport climbing.

I've never run out of space on my Arcteryx FL-365, even on 140ft Indian Creek pitches at my limit with nothing on my shoulders.

Z Winters wrote: BD Technician barely has enough gear loop space for sport climbing.

I've never run out of space on my Arcteryx FL-365, even on 140ft Indian Creek pitches at my limit with nothing on my shoulders.

Did they get smaller from the Aspect? Or have I just never known the wonders of a harness with more space?

David Kerkeslager wrote: The time has come: I've lost too much weight and the harness I got when I started trad climbing doesn't fit any more.

My Arceteryx AR 395 has some issues. First, the plastic covers keep coming off the gear loops. Second, it tends to lose its shape in my bag. Third, the price! So I don't think I'm getting another one of these.

However, the reason I got the AR 395 in the first place is that my old gym harness didn't have enough gear loop space for trad climbing. So I want to make sure that whatever I get has a generous amount of gear loop space.

The obvious choice is the Misty Mountain Cadillac, but I don't really like that the loops are stacked on top of each other. I'd rather have them all at the same height.

I've narrowed down my choices to:

• Misty Mountain Spectre
• DMM Renegade
• Petzl Adjama

The information on how much gear loop space is on each harness is hard to find online. Which of these has a lot of gear loop space?

EDIT: I was looking at other brands and might have found something perfect:

• Mammut Zephyr Alpine

It looks like it's basically one big gear loop all the way around? Does anyone have any experience with this harness?

I recently got the Renegade to replace the Adjama and am very happy.

Much more racking space and the harness stays centered better when climbing.

I’ve also found the Renegade to be more comfortable at hanging/semi hanging belays.
Edit to add: I had the older, 4 loop Adjama.

+1 for the DMM

Replaced an Adjama for it and have never looked back. DMM is super comfy and has tons of gear/racking space, I dig how you can “center” your tie-in point with the gear loops so that as you loose/gain weight on a trip your shit stays centered. Very high quality also...

Larry S wrote:

Did they get smaller from the Aspect? Or have I just never known the wonders of a harness with more space?

Aspect had pretty small loops also. When I drank the dead bird coolaid I found out o could throw my draws up front with my double rack. 

John Wilder wrote:

Seems like over the last decade or so, gear slings have gone out of fashion.

I kind of attribute this to the lack of videos or pics with any pros using slings, so most people do what they see professionals doing, but of course most photos are staged and usually on redpoint, which means a minuscule rack.
I will rack on my harness on redpoint if the rack is small enough, but you couldn’t pay me to put the weight of a double rack plus slings on my hips. There isn’t a free climbing harness out there that could keep my kidneys from feeling the pain.

I agree with John and Marc.  I hate the load-in-the-pants feel, the way gear gets pinned if you are hip-scumming, the relative inaccessibility of pieces on the opposite side of the harness from the free arm, and the need to hand over one piece at a time when switching leads. (Of course, I "grew up" with a swami belt and a rack of pitons on a shoulder sling so, I'm used to managing gear on a sling.)  I also regularly encounter folks who rack nuts on their harness on a carabiner with the gate facing out, and then manage to dump everything while removing the carabiner.  Slings are highly advantageous on offwidths, but can be problematic on overhangs when all the gear ends up hanging behind you.  Although almost no one seems to really like them, I've settled on the Metolius looped gear sling as the best compromise. The gear doesn't fly around to the back on overhangs, and the sling stays where you put it, so you can have your gear in front or behind as the situation requires.  I leave the front loop free as a place to shift gear that I think I'll need for the next move or two, and also as a place to dump gear I've taken off but have decided I can't place.

The only stuff on my harness is quickdraws, some spare biners, and belay paraphenalia.  I usually have two harness loops completely empty.

I've had three Arcteryx harnesses over the years, two of which are the contemporary thin ones.  Never had any kind of problems with the plastic loop covers (but as indicated, I don't weigh them down with a double rack).

The Singing Rock Dome harness is super comfortable and has gear loops for double or even triple racks.

You might want to consider the Wild Country Mission (5 loops) or the WC Synchro (7 loops).  I have an earlier version of the Synchro and like the way the upper loops work.

Steph Davis is one professional climber with a love for the gear sling. She even makes and sells them. Key bit of advice I picked up was to wear your sling tight enough. 

Larry S wrote:

Did they get smaller from the Aspect? Or have I just never known the wonders of a harness with more space?

Not sure, never used an Aspect, but definitely smaller than the loops on a BD Chaos.

One hack that I've used in the past is to add a 5th loop using 7mm accessory cord. I just tied barrel knots to span the gap between the rear gear loops. It hangs a bit lower than the corresponding 5th loop on the Adjama, but you can't beat the price. You can even melt the cord ends if you're worried about the knots coming untied.