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Born Again Noob


Original Post
Quinn Hatfield · · Los Angeles · Joined Oct 2018 · Points: 0

Hello- Quinn here..
So back in the mid 90’s, in the first half of my twenties, I did a bunch of ElCap routes and other standard Grade V’s in the Valley.. now in the second half of my Forties I’m looking at making a comeback..
by summer 2019, it will be nearly 22 years since, not only the last time I did a wall, but also the last time I placed any gear.. 
 There has been some Bouldering and Sport Climbing since, but also a full 12 years of zero climbing..
Work, work, Kids, power lifting, Racing Bicycles all got me off the path.. but I’m back now and pretty committed to getting my skills back to where they were..

A lot of things have changed! We Docked Haul-Bags with a Daisy, we aided with 2+2 Aiders, we Hauled 1:1, I never even considered bringing a stove back then, we never wore helmets and always wore Knee Pads. anyway, lots to learn and a long way to go!

Currently  my only climbing gear is a sport harness, 60m 9.8mm rope and 12 draws.. so I’m literally starting from Zero.. I’m hoping my Ledges and Hammer/Pins are still good- but they’ve been at a friends for 22yrs- but for the most part I’ll be building out a full kit from nothing.

I placed an order with Yates today for a Wall Harness, Daisy’s and Ladders.. going to give 1+1 Aiders a run, I think it will work with my generally simplistic approach, but I’ll do whatever feels better.

I mostly just wanted to Introduce myself- but I’m very open to any thoughts any of you have on Kitting up without destroying my kids college fund, routes to do to get back in the mindset or any other suggestions...
Thanks
 
Quinn

Spencer Todd Cone · · Boulder, CO · Joined Jul 2016 · Points: 91

Hi Quinn,

I started big wall climbing four years ago. Mark Hudon's website was super helpful with learning about 2:1 hauling in case you're interested.

 http://www.hudonpanos.com/Wall-Tips/2-to-1-Hauling.pdf 

Jeffrey Constine · · Los Angeles, CA · Joined May 2009 · Points: 638

Pins are not in any more clean climbing these days. Peckers and stuff tho are in.

Quinn Hatfield · · Los Angeles · Joined Oct 2018 · Points: 0
Spencer Todd Cone wrote: Hi Quinn,

I started big wall climbing four years ago. Mark Hudon's website was super helpful with learning about 2:1 hauling in case you're interested.

 http://www.hudonpanos.com/Wall-Tips/2-to-1-Hauling.pdf 

Yes! Marks site has been a big help! 

I think the 2:1 thing won’t click for me until I have the parts and can play with the set-up.. it’s pretty abstract for me at the moment.. 
Christopher Clay · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2017 · Points: 0

I climbed the Shield with Quinn over 20 years ago.  He was the real deal then and I'm guessing he'll be back in the game in no time.  And, he knows a thing or two about eating well so I can only imagine what he'll be able to do with a jetboil.

Quinn, nice to virtually bump into you here!!  I climbed the Prow last month -- first Wall in 18 years.  The offset cams and super light gear really makes things fun.  Hope to cross paths.
Cheers,
Chris

Mark Hudon · · Lives on the road · Joined Jul 2009 · Points: 420

Quinn, yeah, you gotta spend some time with the 2:1 system. You’ll learn to love it, but you do have to learn it. 

Quinn Hatfield · · Los Angeles · Joined Oct 2018 · Points: 0
Christopher Clay wrote: I climbed the Shield with Quinn over 20 years ago.  He was the real deal then and I'm guessing he'll be back in the game in no time.  And, he knows a thing or two about eating well so I can only imagine what he'll be able to do with a jetboil.

Quinn, nice to virtually bump into you here!!  I climbed the Prow last month -- first Wall in 18 years.  The offset cams and super light gear really makes things fun.  Hope to cross paths.
Cheers,
Chris

Oh Wow! Hi Chris!! Great to hear from you! We did the shield 6/9-6/14 1996!!! I had hair back then!!  I’ll reach out to catch up!! 

Quinn Hatfield · · Los Angeles · Joined Oct 2018 · Points: 0
Mark Hudon wrote: Quinn, yeah, you gotta spend some time with the 2:1 system. You’ll learn to love it, but you do have to learn it. 

Thanks Mark- 

The last piece to complete my 2:1 kit is the draw from Skot.. sounds like he’s working it and I can start learning it soon! Thanks for the help! 
T G · · Boulder, CO · Joined Jun 2015 · Points: 51

I don't know you personally, Quinn, but your reputation precedes you not only as an impeccable chef, but as a killer sprinter on the bike. My partner climbed in the Valley regularly in the 90s, left the east side to become a pro cyclist and came back to climbing four years ago now that we live in Colorado. You'll do just fine. A lot has changed for sure in terms of gear and technique – mostly for the better... not sure that you'll be needing your old pins. Keep us posted with your new adventures - love to hear how it goes.

Quinn Hatfield · · Los Angeles · Joined Oct 2018 · Points: 0

Thanks TG-

So far I’m liking the switch.. less Squats and Dead’s, more Pull-Ups and Dips, and no Leg Shaving..

-Q

Hamish Malin · · Fredericksburg, VA · Joined May 2017 · Points: 15

I’m loving the stoke in this thread, especially as someone who also took a long hiatus and is now back in the game.  Climb on!!

Mark Hudon · · Lives on the road · Joined Jul 2009 · Points: 420

Systems, baby, systems.

My systems, Pete’s systems, Andy Kirkpatrick’s systems, it doesn’t matter. Find a system you like and are comfortable with. Learn it inside and out and ruthlessly use it.

When I get to an anchor of any of my wall partners, they are all the same. Hauling, the same. Dock the bags and set up the portaledge, all the same.

Our walls are fun, relaxed and cluster free.

A. B. · · San Diego · Joined Mar 2018 · Points: 11

I am right there with you.
The only useful thing to add is to climb as much as possible in general to help desensitize yourself to exposure. 

Quinn Hatfield · · Los Angeles · Joined Oct 2018 · Points: 0

Ok- just working through the Belay Building and 2:1 Hauling- mostly for my own OCD.. 




Let me know if I’m missing anything or can improve any of this..

thx! -Q
Mark Hudon · · Lives on the road · Joined Jul 2009 · Points: 420

Looks nice! 

Mark Hudon · · Lives on the road · Joined Jul 2009 · Points: 420

There is no need to use lockers as docking biners.
What could possibly happen?

Is the haul line down to the rope bag as a safety? Why? Do you need triple safeties? 

Quinn Hatfield · · Los Angeles · Joined Oct 2018 · Points: 0

I was wondering if you would call me out for anchoring the Haul Line...
I think one of the books I learned all this stuff from the first time around, back in the 90’s, said something about the Haul Line functioning as a back-up to the lead line if it’s cut.. and it just sorta stuck with me... I get that it’s not ever going to happen- and if it does falling 200-400’ on a static haul line might be worse than the alternative..

Docker Lockers- yep I’m with ya.. I’ll change those out..

Mark Hudon · · Lives on the road · Joined Jul 2009 · Points: 420

My feeling is that one docking cord backs up there other. Both would have to fail for the bags to fall. 

Mark Hudon · · Lives on the road · Joined Jul 2009 · Points: 420

Oh, you’re talking about protecting the leader.
Yeah, well, if your rope cuts, you’re gonna die. 

Quinn Hatfield · · Los Angeles · Joined Oct 2018 · Points: 0

Blue Bird day for my first time back in Aiders since 1997..
pic is my partner- but I did actually aid and jug! 

Mark Hudon · · Lives on the road · Joined Jul 2009 · Points: 420

Isn’t that sweet! 

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Big Wall and Aid Climbing
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