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Alex A
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Aug 16, 2018
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Unknown Hometown
· Joined Oct 2005
· Points: 2,621
Wish MP would have the 1st FA grade, stay permeant like a guidebook, and have the average grade as well, way to many newbies, gym or top ropers, climbing off the bolted line or off the trad line and grading it, you can NOT edit the grade once someone adds there grade,
Using average grade dos not work, all the time, there that are 5.9's that say they are 5.8, I'm 100% sure its 5.9, not huge deal, if your climbing sport routes, more booty, bail biners, BUT TRAD, MIXED, like the 5.9 mixed that says its 5.8 because of the average.
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JRZane
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Aug 16, 2018
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Jersey
· Joined Dec 2015
· Points: 95
mostly agree.
when Open Book was rated 5.9+ it was because it was thought nothing harder would ever be climbed (as i understand it), however with advances in technology and technique people began climbing what was once thought impossible. To allow for this, the YDS was expanded TO INCLUDE CLIMBS THAT WERE ONCE UNCLIMBABLE. How a 1950 5.6 has become a 2018 5.9 baffles me. Grade inflation/creep is one of the biggest issues plaguing climbing community in the USA. This user-input grading is just making it worse....
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Doug Hemken
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Aug 16, 2018
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Delta, CO
· Joined Oct 2004
· Points: 13,698
Consensus is a terrible thing, and one person's opinion is always better than multiple people comparing notes.
Not an average, btw. The median has a different set of mathematical and practical problems than the mean.
There is no perfect system for assigning ratings (or grades, for that matter).
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chris tregge
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Aug 16, 2018
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Madison WI
· Joined May 2007
· Points: 11,256
Alex A wrote: THERE IS NO WAY TO CHANGE THE GRADE ONCE PEOPLE ADD THERE GRADE, YOU CAN NOT EDIT THE GRADE, YOU CAN EDIT EVERYTHING ELSE, BUT THE GRADE, YOU HAVE DELETE IT AND START OVER, B.S.
Hey Alex please don't re-submit a route just to alter the rating - but what you can do is mention in your route submission "Originally given 5.6 by Pete Cleveland and myself, but now increased to 5.11d by the local chuffers" or something like that. ;-) I tend to agree with you that an original AND an average/median/whatever rating could/should be listed for each climb however. That would be cool.
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Doug Hemken
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Aug 16, 2018
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Delta, CO
· Joined Oct 2004
· Points: 13,698
Chris' suggestion to put the "original" rating in the description has the virtue that I can then go and give Pete a hard time about it. Plus I would know to watch out for anything else he may have rated that is seldom repeated.
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Tyler Hagen
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Aug 16, 2018
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Seattle, WA
· Joined Jun 2012
· Points: 0
That was incredibly cumbersome to read.
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chris tregge
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Aug 16, 2018
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Madison WI
· Joined May 2007
· Points: 11,256
Tyler Hagen wrote: That was incredibly cumbersome to read. WHAT DO YOU EXPECT,,, HE IS TALKING ABOUT THE DRUNKEST STATE IN THE US
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