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Hooked

Original Post
Anthony McGlynn · · East Stroudsburg, PA · Joined Jul 2018 · Points: 0

So I'm hooked. Been wanting to climb for years. Live in a good area for it, but I've had a lot of obstacles to overcome to actually get it done. I never climbed before and have literally 0 gear. Always been too broke to hit any of the local climbing gyms. And to top it all off my other sport has taken up nearly 100% of my time since I started. Not making excuses just giving a little background info. Well I made friends with an experienced climber/guide and went out and hit the rock for the first time the other day. Officially hooked. My life in my other sport is winding down now. I'm better financially. I still dont have any of my own gear, but I totally need to go out again. There is a gym in my area but I feel like I wouldn't enjoy it as much as trad climbing. My schedule is hectic and sometimes i have a hard time linking up with people who work normal jobs. So good idea/bad idea: get my own gear and go out solo on some 5.4 or 5.5 single pitches if I can't link up with another guy?

FrankPS · · Atascadero, CA · Joined Nov 2009 · Points: 276

You need to be able to buy the basic gear in climbing. If you try to climb with other people, but don't have your own harness and shoes, it's unlikely they will want you as a partner.

Meet partners at the gym, from MP, at the crag, etc., but invest in the basics. There have been threads on "What gear do I need as a beginning climber," so use the search function.

I would discourage you from soloing, in the beginning.

Anthony McGlynn · · East Stroudsburg, PA · Joined Jul 2018 · Points: 0
FrankPS wrote: You need to be able to buy the basic gear in climbing. If you try to climb with other people, but don't have your own harness and shoes, it's unlikely they will want you as a partner.

Meet partners at the gym, from MP, at the crag, etc., but invest in the basics. There have been threads on "What gear do I need as a beginning climber," so use the search function.

I would discourage you from soloing, in the beginning.

Thats kind of what I figured. I have a good handle on what gear I need based on what I've seen in these threads and what we used when we went out. In your experience how was gym climbing compared to outdoors? Seems like it wouldn't be as fun. But at the same time kind of seems that's where I should have started. 

Old lady H · · Boise, ID · Joined Aug 2015 · Points: 1,375

Outside is simply different. A gym is what it is, although a good place to learn to belay, lead, meet people, train, and keep from going nuts in the off season.

If you have multiple gyms, you've got a pool of climbers. Look for classes, meetups, local Facebook climbing groups, etc. Ask the guy who took you out if you could do some more!

Congrats on being hooked. Many of us are in that same boat!

Best, OLH

FrankPS · · Atascadero, CA · Joined Nov 2009 · Points: 276

I started outdoors by paying a guide and have never climbed in a gym. It takes a while to find partners, and they will come and go. I live in an area that has good weather for year-round outdoor climbing. Even though there is a decent gym in the area (according to people I talk to), indoor climbing doesn't appeal to me.

That said, when you're new to climbing, you can learn some skills (belaying, for example), and meet partners for outdoor climbing, in the gym. It takes time, but eventually you will have two or three partners you can climb with, indoors and out.

Try to learn at the gym, read some books about the basics of climbing and get your own gear. Make yourself a desirable partner and be patient.

Anthony McGlynn · · East Stroudsburg, PA · Joined Jul 2018 · Points: 0
Old lady H wrote: Outside is simply different. A gym is what it is, although a good place to learn to belay, lead, meet people, train, and keep from going nuts in the off season.

If you have multiple gyms, you've got a pool of climbers. Look for classes, meetups, local Facebook climbing groups, etc. Ask the guy who took you out if you could do some more!

Congrats on being hooked. Many of us are in that same boat!

Best, OLH

Thanks! I will hit up the gym out here. The guy who took me out is super cool and said he would let me tag along again. I just dont want to be that annoying little brother type who is always pestering him to take me places. Especially while I'm still learning. I'm sure he wants to hit more advanced climbs and I struggled pretty bad on a 5.7 he took me on when we went out lol.

Anthony McGlynn · · East Stroudsburg, PA · Joined Jul 2018 · Points: 0
FrankPS wrote: I started outdoors by paying a guide and have never climbed in a gym. It takes a while to find partners, and they will come and go. I live in an area that has good weather for year-round outdoor climbing. Even though there is a decent gym in the area (according to people I talk to), indoor climbing doesn't appeal to me.

That said, when you're new to climbing, you can learn some skills (belaying, for example), and meet partners for outdoor climbing, in the gym. It takes time, but eventually you will have two or three partners you can climb with, indoors and out.

Try to learn at the gym, read some books about the basics of climbing and get your own gear. Make yourself a desirable partner and be patient.

Thanks! I really appreciate the advice. I'll try to hit the climbing gym here a couple times this week. 

Walter Edly · · Thomasville NC · Joined Apr 2013 · Points: 10

I didn't see where you're located, might have more luck if you mention that.

Jeremy Justus · · Steamboat Springs, CO · Joined Jul 2016 · Points: 0

Gym's can have some benefit like those stated above, and you can usually get a belay class/test for free with a day pass to make sure you're competent.  I personally never went to a gym until I was in my 3rd year of climbing, but I live in a ski town all winter so there is not many other options for those 6-7 months of the year.  I do enjoy bouldering in the gym, but it doesn't compare to real rock.  Once you're dialed on belaying, especially lead belaying, I wouldn't feel bad about tagging along with someone better, you can belay him on hard stuff, and he can belay you on whatever grade you're working on.  Pretty fair trade off I think, at least once you have the gear.  Maybe supply the beer as well, definitely can't hurt!

I'd recommend the black diamond momentum harness kit to get you started, everything you need besides shoes at around $100.  Try and find used shoes first, you don't need anything advanced or super tight for a while.  Gear loops got a little tight now that I'm learning trad but I still like it, decently comfortable (bearable) in hanging belays.  Some people will say you need a grigri to be safe but I love the basic atc.

Finding someone to tie into the other side of the rope can be the crux of climbing occasionally, but i think it's easier than figuring out a rope solo system.  I'm in my 4th year of climbing, and I'm just starting to be able to wrap my head around the different techniques need to climb TR solo.  Just be honest with your knowledge/abilities, keep the stoke high, and you shouldn't have too many issues finding a partner.  

Old lady H · · Boise, ID · Joined Aug 2015 · Points: 1,375

Yup to all of the above. You do not need to.be a 5.13 climber to be an excellent belayer. Learn that, first, lead belaying. Be mindful that leading in a gym is not full prep for outside, not by a long shot! Find (or hire) someone to help you learn that transition, when you are ready. Outside, stay very cognizant that you dont know what you don't know, so stay super humble and careful. Be with people who know what they're doing.

If you just can't stand it (need hands on rock), buy a boulder pad and do that in a well trafficked place. It's quite sociable, as the more pad people with pads, the better it is for all.

Be very cautious not to overdo, especially in a gym. Hands can get injured very easily! 

Best, OLH

Matt Himmelstein · · Orange, CA · Joined Jun 2014 · Points: 194

Yer gonna die...

So, you have zero experience, and you think the way to go is to buy some gear and head out soloing?  Do I have that right?  Well, please don't do it some crowded spot where your fall or epic rescue will impact responsible climbers.

Go hire a guide and head out for a weekend to at least learn the basics.

Forrest Carver · · Edgecomb, ME · Joined Jul 2014 · Points: 150

a fellow beginner's perspective: find at least one experienced and patient mentor before you do any roped climbing. Be honest with yourself and others about your knowledge and ability. Read the basic Mountaineers Books first. Don't rush into anything

As for being hooked, it's almost more of a curse than a gift. I can't even drive safely anymore because I'm too busy gawking at chossy road cuts

Katherine K · · Raymond, ME · Joined Jan 2018 · Points: 0
Forrest Carver wrote: a fellow beginner's perspective: find at least one experienced and patient mentor before you do any roped climbing. Be honest with yourself and others about your knowledge and ability. Read the basic Mountaineers Books first. Don't rush into anything

As for being hooked, it's almost more of a curse than a gift. I can't even drive safely anymore because I'm too busy gawking at chossy road cuts

Amen to the blessing and a curse thing. I started climbing in November, only sent my first 5.8 in February, but just quit my job to move West for... you guessed it....primarily climbing related reasons.

But yeah- link up with someone who knows what they're doing- guide or friend/mentor. It's safer, more fun, and you'll become a better climber for it (which only leads to MORE fun stuff you can do eventually)

bus driver · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Aug 2009 · Points: 1,531

Buy used shoes and a gently used harness and belay device the first time.  You will get your whole personal setup for less than the price of one new piece of gear.  The time spent saving money will be time spent climbing. The money saved can buy gym passes and burgers for mentors.

Also, read books like Basic Rock Climbing, How to Rock Climb, and the Sierra Club  Rock Climbing book.  Many systems you will rarely see first hand and a book is the best way to become introduced.  Also book knowledge early will give you good questions to ask when you get out Climbing.  Don’t ignore the sections on movement. Books are great for learning technique and technique is great for doing harder climbs with less strength.
The sites below sell used gear in Utah. Not sure if they’ll ship or not.  
https://classifieds.ksl.com/s/Outdoors+and+Sporting/Climbing+Equipment

http://www.thegearroomslc.com

Harumpfster Boondoggle · · Between yesterday and today. · Joined Apr 2018 · Points: 148

Get strong in the gym and work on cardio (running, hiking or even a stationary bike to trim some belly pounds).

It makes the more rare opportunities outside more fun when you have the fitness to make them enjoyable instead of desperate hard work.

Mentor/schmentor, but don't solo at all. Its an advanced  technique.

Meet partners in the Yim.

curt86iroc · · Lakewood, CO · Joined Dec 2014 · Points: 274

sorry, i thought this thread was going to be about heel hooks...

carry on...

F Loyd · · Kennewick, WA · Joined Mar 2018 · Points: 808

Soloing sounds good, until the unforeseen happens. You have to already have the knowledge and ability to properly remedy the situation. No matter how many forum posts and book pages you read, the hands on part with a mentor is crucial to efficiency and success.
The soloing trad routes aspect is much more difficult than well bolted sport routes. There is nobody there to check your gear placement, and it takes just one slip with bad placements to zip your way to the ground with all your gear still attached to your rope.
Make yourself available to other climbers, and read the "how to get asked out on a second date". Go the slow route.. 
Learn from accidents as well.

Nick Baker · · Salt Lake City, UT · Joined Jan 2016 · Points: 91

Dear God....   You went climbing once and your considering going out and soloing?!  I am glad you had enough sense to ask if that was a good idea.   It most definitively is not.  Spend a couple years learning the sport and revisit that idea then.  Despite the fact that famous climbers like honnold make soloing seem like no big deal, it is a huge deal with significant consequences.  It would be like taking a 1 day first aid class and deciding that it qualified you to perform heart surgery.  If you meant rope soloing then you need to be very proficent with rope and gear in a way you absolutely aren't right now.  You have more to learn than you realize if you want to become a safe, competent trad climber.      If you can't find a partner read books, watch videos, practice knots.   Find partners at your local gym, join a climbing Meetup, ect.    If you can swing it, a class would speed your learning curve.

You're going to die. (But it would be best if it was of old age.....)

Anthony McGlynn · · East Stroudsburg, PA · Joined Jul 2018 · Points: 0

Again thanks for the advice guys. Im pretty good on strength/endurance as well as my overall cardio. I am actually a personal trainer and professional bjj/mma fighter so the so curt86iroc isnt too far off from what I normally talk about. I think the people who recommended hitting the gym and getting some belay experience were spot on. So I am going to be doing lots of that after i grab some used gear. 

Harumpfster Boondoggle · · Between yesterday and today. · Joined Apr 2018 · Points: 148
Anthony McGlynn wrote: Again thanks for the advice guys. Im pretty good on strength/endurance as well as my overall cardio. I am actually a personal trainer and professional bjj/mma fighter so the so curt86iroc isnt too far off from what I normally talk about. I think the people who recommended hitting the gym and getting some belay experience were spot on. So I am going to be doing lots of that after i grab some used gear. 

You might be awesome at all of those things...but you still need climbing specific strength in your fingers and most regular trainers are very poor in this regard in a finger power to weight ratio (95% of climbing). You need a climbing gym for that or years on rock.

Anthony McGlynn · · East Stroudsburg, PA · Joined Jul 2018 · Points: 0
Harumpfster Boondoggle wrote:

You might be awesome at all of those things...but you still need climbing specific strength in your fingers and most regular trainers are very poor in this regard in a finger power to weight ratio (95% of climbing). You need a climbing gym for that or years on rock.

Hands are actually really strong. Bjj is all gripwork and on top of that i used to race motocross. But my technique is literally all strength lol. So i def need to work on better ways to go about it instead of just powerhousing my way through it. 

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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